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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 08-26-2007, 06:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2nd Generation Replacing the control arm help

I need some advice on replacing the control arm drivers side. I replaced the cv axle and I'm still hearing a clunk when I take off and when i stop. When I replaced the cv axle the clicking went away and I guess I didn't hear the clunking noise until I replace the axle. So any advice on checking anything else and also torque specifications on tightening the ball joint. 1989 Toyota camry wagon 4cyl 150k
I appreciate any help someone can give me. Thanks

Last edited by bigcee; 08-26-2007 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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the best advice you can get....
www.camrymanuals.com

get the 2nd gen editions. The site had probs, is working great now. Fantastic tool for DYIers
Jeff
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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2nd Generation Thanks for info!

I appreciate the info. I'm glad I found you guys.
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I bet you any money i know what it is. Try this, put your hands on the front drivers wheel and push and pull it back and forth, if it has more than like a half an inch of play in either direction you found your problem. It could be the sway bar bushing inside the table. If it is, be careful! to do this job you have to unbolt the sway bar from where it connects close to the frunt bumper, and if your unlucky the bolts will break off inside of the cross member that it is bolted to. Btw the table bushing is part of the lower table, so you may have to replace the entire table and it comes with a new ball joint. If this your problem what you have to do is instead of unbolting the sway bar from the cross member, just unbolt the whole cross member itself (5 or 6 bolts) so there is not chance of breaking the sway bar bolts tacked to the inside of the corss member, cause you have no acess to them if you do break them. If you do it that way the table shouldnt be that hard to change. I had this happen to me, it was a progressive thing, the more time passed the worse it got, then the car started pulling on the highway.... maybe this might be your problem , hope this helps....
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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my sway bar bracket rusted away and when i went to stop one day in my 88 the bar came down and dug into the road, i just changed both corner brackets and found out my inner tierods were wiped out, upon checking into them i also saw my rack end boots were gone and oil leaking out both ends of the rack, screw it, i put a new rack in that came with new inners and put both wheel bearings in and it drives like a new one now
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