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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 08-26-2007, 10:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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automatic transmission problem- electronic?

Hi. I'm new to this forum. I have a 1991 Camry with automatic transmission, and about 150k miles.

I was driving today in heavy rain and drove through a very deep puddle. Maybe 5 minutes later, I stopped at a store for about 1/2 an hour, and when I left, the car drove ok for about 2 minutes, and then the gas pedal stopping making the car accelerate. In other words, it was if the car was all of a sudden in neutral. I pulled over, shut the car off and waited a few minutes (while I called everyone I could think of, to no avail). When I turned the car on again, it drove fine (accelerated fine) for about 2-3 blocks, or say 10 seconds, and then the car would no longer accelerate. It revved as if in neutral. I pulled over, shut the car off (completely) for a minute, restarted it and drove again for a few blocks, and did this perhaps 20 times, all the way home...

I would think this must be related to getting wet, as it hasn't done anything like this before. My question is, why does it work fine for 10-20 seconds after I start the car, and then not work at all, but works fine if I turn off the car for 30 seconds or more? I am not going to be the one fixing this (bringing to a shop), but would appreciate any info you could give me. Thanks!
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Old 08-28-2007, 01:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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How does the trans work now? If not OK, when the trans does act up can you shift into another gear or reverse and have the trans engage?

Might be a coincidence with the water issue. Low trans fluid can cause slipping or could be an internal trans problem.

The shift solenoids are electrical operated via wires from the ECU. Water may have gotten into the wiring going these items or into the gear position indicator switch (located radiator side of the trans where the shift cable runs to). This switch tells the ECU what gear the driver selected.

It is possible a trouble code may have been stored. You can access any codes by turning the ign switch to ON, pushing in the O/D switch to ON, then jumping the TE1 and E1 terminals in the small black box labeled DLC. A box should be located in the engine compartment, passengers side shock tower area.

If no codes are stored the O/D light OFF indicator will blink 2 times per second. If codes stored, the light will indicate the two numeral numbers of the code(s) using to series of blinks, as in 2 blinks and 6 blinks for code 26.
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Old 08-28-2007, 02:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hm I was driving recently and the O/D Off indicator was flashing on and off, what does that mean?
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Old 08-28-2007, 05:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuron
Hm I was driving recently and the O/D Off indicator was flashing on and off, what does that mean?
That means that you have a error code stored in the tranny computer. Follow the above instructions from toyomoho to get the code.
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Old 08-28-2007, 07:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks, toyomoho. No, it wasn't shifting in any gear or reverse. That all happened Sunday afternoon, and around noon Monday I brought it to the shop. For the mile from my house to there it was ok, but seemed like it shifted a little 'weak' as I got there. When the mechanic drove it, what I described in my previous post did happen a few times. Their explanation seems to make sense: there is a screen or filter in the transmission. My fluid is old and probably has some sediment/sludge/stuff in it. When the car is turned off, the stuff floats to the top of the fluid, and when I start to drive the fluid is ok, but soon enough, the stuff is getting sucked into the screen/filter again. Turn the car off, it floats to the top again, and so on.

Sound correct, or plausible? I think they are changing the fluid and cleaning the screen. I'm not clear on if getting wet was the cause of what they say the problem is. I'm not familiar with checking the code, etc., but that is really interesting. I would hope that the mechanic thinks to do that, but if the problem is not fixed, I will bring that up! Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it!
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Old 08-28-2007, 07:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well, I just found this on another thread and am a little nervous...

"If your vehicle has high mileage (> 80,000 miles) and the transmission has not been maintained, I would not recommend replacing the fluid and filter. The fluid that has been in the transmission all this time has become dirty and gritty. This gritty fluid is actually providing needed friction for the worn internal parts of the transmission. Changing the fluid and replacing the filter would remove this friction that the internal transmission parts have become dependent on. If you have not been regularly maintaining the transmission throughout the life of the car, you might actually be doing more harm than good if you replace the transmission fluid at this point. For example, putting new clean slick transmission fluid in an older high mileage vehicle could cause the transmission to slip.

If you are not experiencing a problem, have over 80,000 miles on your car, and have not kept up regular maintenance on the transmission, my advice would be to leave the transmission fluid and filter alone. If you are experiencing a transmission problem like those listed above, seek the advice of a qualified transmission shop before allowing your regular mechanic to service the transmission.

I learned about this problem several years ago...the hard way. We had two cars in our shop with these "minor" transmission symptoms that I have listed above, and both of them had to be towed out to the transmission shop after servicing. The old fluid was gritty due to metal shavings caused by normal internal wear and tear on the transmission clutches and was acting like liquid sandpaper. This "sandpaper" was producing the friction needed for the transmission to pull itself. When we changed the filter and replaced the old fluid with new fluid, the clutches inside the transmission had nothing to grab on to. Sometimes even the best of us learn lessons the hard (and expensive) way."
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Old 08-28-2007, 08:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Really???

I've heard this and thought it was just a lazy mans tale. I was going to change the fluid and filter on my wife's '99 camry with 90,000 and never changed.

Can anyone else back this up? Is there really any truth to this?
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Old 08-28-2007, 09:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Recently read Tom and Ray the car guys who said it's just not true. If it fails shortly after a fluid change it was bound to fail anyway. I changed mine at around 200k and know it wasn't changed too often. (Also cleaned the shift solenoids) and it's still working fine at 245K miles. FWIW
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Old 08-28-2007, 09:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have only heard do not change the oil if the fluid looks horrible and smells extremely burned.
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Old 08-28-2007, 10:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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i changed my tranny fluid at more than 100k and it was fine afterwards...i also used some seafoam transtune.
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Old 08-28-2007, 10:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I've got 150k. I'll let you know how it goes...
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Old 08-29-2007, 12:41 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atobe
i changed my tranny fluid at more than 100k and it was fine afterwards...i also used some seafoam transtune.
I forgot to mention. I changed my fluid on my old camry at 260k and used seafoam transtune. It shifted a hell of a lot better after that.
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I so need to change my tranny fuild. Been doing long distant driving now. Not sure when it was changed, but I am assuming it hasn't been done in the last 4 years at lease. Slightly red/brown.

Oddly, If my tranny went out, I saw a Toyota Ceclica 1986 with the 2SE engine w/ tranny at the junker. I believe thats cross compatible with the Gen1 Camry...only thing is that the car already had 185K on it.
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Old 08-29-2007, 07:56 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Alright guys looks like I have code 63. Severed No. 2 solenoid or short circuit - severed wire harness or short circuit.

"HINT: If codes 62, 63, or 64 appear, there is an electrical malfunction in the solenoid"

How do I go about fixing this? Is it expensive? I don't understand their explanation.
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Old 08-29-2007, 09:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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On my '92 the solenoids were easy to get to after removing the pan. NOTE where the magnets are on the pan and try not to disturb! One solenoid had a white wire and the other black. One screw holding each. Hopefully the wire's come loose because they are around $100 each I think. You'll probably want a new pan gasket and fluid. I replaced the screen (filter) as it came with the gasket kit or vice versa.
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