1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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hello, my back passenger wheel area has always rode a little rough, but was nothing more than annoying. recently it's gotten significantly worst, and i've noticed that my tire is wearing on the inside, and that the tire seems to be slanted in at the top and out at the bottom (see below, angle is exaggerated in picture)
here's some other pics with the rear passenger side of the car up on a jack:
the bottom of that strut shaft shoudn't be that rusty. It should usually be inside the strut covered in oil. and there is a seal on it keeping it clean. that strut looks beyond bad. I would say it might not even have any oil left in it. I don't know what you hit or how it happened. i would put a new pair in the rear if the car is worth it, and you should be good.
not sure if this is a beater or good car. but it would be a good idea to get a new dust boot, you can get by with what you have. a new lower spring cushion too, or if you are cheap you can use 1/2 heater hose, and slide it on the first coil of the spring.
I would fix it ASAP. before it compromizes other parts, and things snowball!
Just by looking at that gives me the shivers. Seems like all that strut is now...well...it must be riding on the spring since that strut is most likey dead. I'd hate to look at it when it is not lifted...I'm already assuming it sags low on that side.
i had no idea that strut was in that poor of condition. most of my driving is freeway by myself, but i did recently accidentially drive a tad too fast on a dirt road that was more like a minefield. since that (about a month ago) the problem's got noticeably worse.
i went car shopping the past couple days and i've come to the conclusion that my best bet is to replace the struts on this one. it still gets 400 miles per tank and cruises nicely at highway speeds, and all the electronics/AC/heating works, so it's worth getting fixed.
ok, i lifted the rear end up, and although the rear driver's side strut isn't nearly as bad (it's still shiny and got a little grease on it, lol) it probably needs replaced. now obviously i probably need to replace more than just the strut itself (i should replace everything on both sides "evenly", right?) so what should be on my shopping list? i'm good at working on stuff/following directions, but i am worthless when it comes to diagnosis.
i'm just a inexperienced kid who really appreciates any help you pros can offer!
4 new struts (any old stock replacements will work)
4 used but not crazy-rusty springs from the junkyard
4 new top-hats (where the top of the strut attaches to the body of the car)
4 new strut boots (the rubber things that should be there to protect the strut shaft)
This should end up costing $450-$800 depending on what you can do for prices on parts.
You will probably find a bunch of other bad stuff when you get in there... good luck!
-Charlie
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2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
If you can't get strut boots you can improvise with some large heating hose from a hardware store. Sometimes they're hella expensive or not findable. My Celica doesn't even have strut boots and the struts have been on there for almost two years and still look new.
As far as the springs go, if by some miracle yours still has plenty of bounce (holds the rear end high, can almost get the rear tires off the ground if you bounce it hard enough) then I would keep the springs you have instead of trying the junk yard.
Also, I'm sure your strut mounts are pulverized. Get some new strut mounts as you don't want to have to disassemble EVERYTHING because once you got good struts on there the old mounts start clattering.
The best way to tell if your struts are worn is to bounce the car up and down as hard as you possibly can...get some momentum going. After you get it going and let it go, it should go up-down-up-catch. If it keeps going, you need struts. If you can't get it going much, it needs springs. Check your fronts before you buy new struts...MANY people only do the fronts and leave the rears to rust...you may have newish fronts.
One other thing...you'll want to get it aligned when you're all done.
Edit: Also, don't even start without about three cans of PB Blaster, a HUGE breaker bar, and at least a few days of downtime to account for frozen bolts, because with that much rust there's going to be plenty.
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I'm strongly against picketing, but I'm not sure how to show it...
Last edited by wiccanferret; 08-31-2007 at 01:09 PM.
took it to a local mechanic and he was able to find the rear strut assembly in a junkyard for $300 with parts and labor. he's also replacing my distributor and wires since i've had some acceleration issues recently, $520 in all. I'm pretty happy.
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