1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I got myself an issue that seems to be happening more often. I drive an '85 Camry which has at times a 'bouncy' temperature needle. What I mean by it is like it will twitch up and down when it is at normal temperature level (center) at times and then level off in the center like normal. It's like you know how you first turn on your key to your car on 'ON', it will usually shoot up to the center and then bounce once before leveling off in the center when you have your car off and already warm up. With this, it will do that bouncy trick while I am driving on the road or at times, at idle. Again this is when the car is more or less hot.
The problem seems to occurs more when the car has been running a while and on a hot day, however this problem happens at random more or less.
I'm clueless on what could be causing this. I was thinking that my dash cluster is just old, so it has that 'bouncy' needle disease. My speedo has a bit of a 'wavy' needle when i'm traveling right around 20~40 mph.
Your speedo is mechanical. There is a cable in there that rotates, it will bounce more and slower at low speeds and be bounce free at highway speeds. Up could try getting a new one if it is worth it to you to fix, or spray some lub down it.
Did you check the ground on the dash cluster? Or the other connections for the temp sensor? You could take a multimeter righ to the sensor wire you are driving and see if the resistance is changing as the needle is.
I'm with nogard on fixing your bouncing speedo issue - you can just replace it with a new or even junkyard one. But if you'd rather not spend all that money on a cable, the low buck fix is to remove the speedo cable, or at least the end that connects to the speedometer. Then you can pull it out through the firewall to lube it. Two ways to do this, cheap or less cheap.
(The speedo cable may come out of its housing or it may be locked inside the housing by its pressed on ends. If it comes out, pull out the cable and lube it with some high temp grease, almost any kind will do.)
If, and more likely it wont come out of its housing, attach a plastic bag to its end good and tight with some rubber bands. Hang the plastic bag up and pour some oil in it - engine oil would work, use lighter weight oil like 5-30 and not 20 - 50. And leave it overnight. The oil should creep its way into the housing and be slowly dripping out the other end.
the less cheap way is to just buy some motorcyle cable lube from a motorcycle store. the kind i'm talking about has some sort of contraption on it that wraps around the end of the cable and lets you use the spray can of lube to force it into the housing somehow. I've never tried this stuff but i know it's available.
As for your bouncy temp gauge issue, i've never seen such a thing before but anything is possible when it comes to broken car stuff. I have a couple guesses as to the problem and the fix:
Possible problem: Temperature gauge connector on engine is loose and about to fall off. Or it is very dirty or there is oil or water dripping on it. Find it, clean it, make sure it isnt loose if it is, secure it.
Another possible: temperature sender in engine itself is bad. replace it. You could go either new or junkyard here - (there's a lot of pic a part junkyards around here and i've taken chances on old parts like this lots of times and always lucked out and got ones that worked for a couple of bucks).
I would not suspect the dash gauge itself for causing this problem. Because when a dash gauge goes out, any kind of gauge, generally it just dies and thats that. If the needle is moving, suspect the sensors, connection or wiring.
I might just try with the lease invasive method of trying to see if there is air in the coolant system. Then I suppose I'll go to the temperature sender. How hard is it to replace that thing anyhow? I have a toyota part dealer in town, so I'd just rather get a new one if it's not a arm and leg for it.
Also I noticed the rad isn't very 'sturdy' from the rad brackets as it has some play. Means it will move if you push it back and forth. I was thinking of using some alumin foil where the brackets are on the top so the rad won't be going back and forward when driving.
my temp gauge pegs itself randomly for anywhere from a few seconds to a several minutes at a time. It's a 20 year old car, and just a way to get around so I'm not all paranoid about it.
my car did this when i got it, except it scared the hell out of me the first time! I got the car and drove it home with no problems, and then went out again later on, when i took the car out again i drove it down the street and noticed that the temp needle was buried in the red! so of course i flip out and shut off the car and pop the hood.... everything was ok? I traced it down to a faulty contact someplace in the guage cluster. i didnt bother fixing it because i picked up a cluster with the optional tach. when i put this one on it fixed the problem.
Besides the non-crucial jumping needle, I believe the rad is leaking some antifreeze (it's those plastic with teeth like metal on the base to hold it down) along with a small hole (not the main top hose) is letting some pressure out. I know it's leaking since I see some green stuff dried on the top of the rad.
Thats what you get when my uncle is a cheapskate. The rad was replace some 2 years ago.
if your rad is cracked on a flat surface or an assable area you could try 2 things. souldering which is the economic way or brazing it....
first option. economic --> souldering over the crack/hole with a high acid content solder. like you would use for copper plumbing tubes, but more acidic. If you cover the hole up good with a thick enough coat of soulder it will hold the pressure. your going to have to take the rad off to do it though, so the soulder doesnt run off when it melts. and remember to clean off all the dirt and grease and grind it down to the metal.
second option (which is better if you can do it) is brazing the crack/hole like the rad shops do. your going to need a high heat propane souldering torch (like a turbo or something like that, it mixes air in with the gas so it burns hotter) and use MAPP gas (yellow bottle) instead of propane becasue again it burns hotter and some brass soulder. I dont think you've got a Canadain tire in Hawaii like we do in Canada but you should be able to get this stuff at the local auto parts shop or even in some hardware stores, in the plumbing department . either way you have to take the rad off.... hope this helps
Well...first of all, it's those plastic top radiators with the metal teeth looking things holding the entire top down. It's basically leaking at the teeth part where it holds the top plastic hosing down. So much for the cheap rad.
Before I start to worry a lot on this, the car will need CV joints before any of these. I can get some at either Napa, Car Quest, and I believe maybe checkers, although I would pefer getting then through Car Quest as I had gotten stuff from them before without any issue. Any particular brands I should look for?
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
I got the car and drove it home with no problems, and then went out again later on, when i took the car out again i drove it down the street and noticed that the temp needle was buried in the red! so of course i flip out and shut off the car and pop the hood.... everything was ok? 
I traced it down to a faulty contact someplace in the guage cluster. i didnt bother fixing it because i picked up a cluster with the optional tach. when i put this one on it fixed the problem.
Linear Mode
