93 Camry LE door locks goofy after ECU replaced - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 10-04-2007, 01:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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93 Camry LE door locks goofy after ECU replaced

I just had a mechanic replace the engine control unit in a '93 Camry LE. Now when I try to lock the doors with the electronic door lock, it locks and unlocks all 4 doors very fast and sometimes clicks them on and off all by itself and will not stay locked unless done manually for each knob. The first time it happened, right out of the shop, I manually locked all but the drivers-side door and tried the drivers side door-lock switch several times and it worked fine then. But since then, no luck.

Can this problem be directly related to the newly installed used ECU? Does the ECU control the door locks? In examining the fuse box under the hood, the fuse diagram on the inside of the lid did not indicate that any of those fuses were for the door locking circuitry. Does anyone know where the door lock fuse is? The wiring at the door hinges is encased in some kind of rubbery sheath so I haven't tried to examine the condition of those wires. Anyone have any answers or ideas?

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Old 10-04-2007, 01:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i don't see why the ECU would mess with the door locks... but anyways a 93 camry is gen3 ... checked the fuses where the kick panel is inside the car? sounds like a bad connection somewhere though
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for your reply,

The mechanic who installed the used ECU said that it was the computer that was causing the problem. They had wanted to charge $400 to have the old ECU rebuilt. I told them that I would find one myself and not to go ahead with that. The old one came and they installed it. That's when the door lock problem started.
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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This is a confusing one...

If the car has an alarm installed, it could be a problem getting the door locks synchronized with the alarm because of the battery having been disconnected... seems my '94 with a CodeAlarm has done this from time to time; sometimes by manually unlocking the doors instead of using the remote.

Turn off and exit the vehicle with the remote and key in-hand, and either manually lock or unlock the driver's door until the system gets re-synched... if that makes sense.
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks again,

Sorry to say there is no remote that came with the car and I don't know if there was supposed to have been one or not. It's a '93 Camry LE. Also not sure where the kick panel is to check those fuses, but will look and can probably figure it out. Also in my previous post it was the used ECU that I found on Ebay that they installed. It fixed the problem that we brought the car in for...it would die at idle.

Last edited by Monguse; 10-04-2007 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 10-04-2007, 10:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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no real solution here, but my camry did the same thing, after some job at the shop years ago when it was hit from behind and the body guys did some electrical crapwork that went unnoticed until too late to get them to fix it preoperly.


pretty much i followed every wire and checked every relay, no luck, i ended up disconnecting the door switches the rubber grommets inside the door that say 'door open' on yer dash and all that 'really useful' electronica info, the pass door still locked them up nbormally and i would just lean overand use it.....boy thank god for digitally communicvating power locks that break all the time... manual doorlocks were so heavy and stupid and never broke .....we are so lazy and power everything breaks in a toyota before the engine and tranny and thats too bad, cuz the engines and trannies rule, the shell that rusts and the copious amounts of electronics crammed everywhere make things hard. (my power sunroof is broke, my power rear window is fritzy, my power locks are now disconnected, ive redone my rear tail lights anally and perfectly and yet still my 'lights' idiot light on the dash lights up now and again)
p.s ; look under the glove box, open and close the door, follow you ears ans youll find what clicks..... its behind the glove box its a relay, check its wiring and continuity and replace it (get all the relays you can from a dead camry at the wrecker for next to nothing or pay hundreds atthe dealer up to you)or do what i ended up doing and take it right out, why do you NEED power locks anyways...is it no longer cool to reach across and unlock a door for your girl or a buddy, does that show your poor or something............ ....wow...rant rant rant.......i love my vw bus and my lada for their lawn mower technology that can be understood, fixed and sooped by just about any analytical mind.
ok bye.
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Old 10-05-2007, 03:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for your sentiments regarding power everything. I totally agree. I once bought an old 1958 Sears Roebuck Dodge panel truck for $250. It had an L head 6 engine. I drove it for 11 years and actually totally rebuilt the engine myself with the exception of turning the crank shaft and any other machining that was required. You could sit under the hood when it was raining and work on the engine without getting wet. It was simple and reliable. Things change.

Thanks again

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Old 03-27-2009, 09:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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my dashlights dont work, like the a/c and the heater lights. i replaced all the fuses in the panel next to the steering except for the 7.5 fuses
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Old 11-08-2011, 12:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Check this Out!!!!

Well if the Door locks are automatically unlocking all four doors when you press the lock button then think about what would normally cause the car to act that way? on mine when i leave the key in the ignition and try to lock the door it unlocks the whole car to tell me hey guy the keys in the car just in case i try to force the lock down manually so.... in the ignition there is a switch that tells the car the key in in the ignition. look up a schematic for it to figure out what wire it is and disconnect it to fix your problem if that's your problem
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