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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 10-18-2007, 05:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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code 28 on 2SE

Noob, here.

1986 camry w the 2SE engine, 122,xxx miles

Cranks, but no spark, fuel pump not running.

Managed to pull code 28 out of the diagnostic plug.... cannot find any code 28 listed....

Any feedback welcome.

heading to the parts store to buy a manual.... if the code is listed.....

cheers

Michel
74 wagoneer
83 XR350
86 camry

Last edited by letank; 10-18-2007 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 10-18-2007, 06:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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it's probably code 2 and code 8

but, i don't think there's a code 8 for Gen 1

i'll double check

*edit*

code 2 for 1986 US Camry = Air Flow Meter [AFM] Signal
- Vc circuit open or Vs -E2 short circuited
- E2 circuit open or Vc-Vs short Circuited


Trouble Area = AFM circuit; AFM; ECU

code 8 = Intake air temp sensor signal
- Open or short circuit in intake air temp sensor

Trouble Area = Air temp sensor circuit; ECU

************************************************** ******
*edit 2*

the common denominator here is the ECU so leave that as the last fix.

With a DMM, measure the resistances of the AFM to see if it's within spec. I don't know what they are off the top of my head, but as soon as i find it, i'll post it.

Chances are, the Air temp sensor failed and just needs to be replaced. It will probably also be the cheapest fix.

If it were me, i would do diagnostic and fixes in this order

1) Air temp sensor testing and replace if fail
2) AFM test and fix/replace if fail
3) ECU test where possible and ask for help from TN [hopefully not having to succumb to the power of the stealership]

Last edited by monito; 10-18-2007 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
JUST RE ENGINEER IT
 
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download the manual from here, the store cant help you
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:50 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks a zillion.

Will update after checking.

Michel

74 wagoneer
83 XR350
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Old 10-20-2007, 11:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Checked AFM w DMM, all checks within specs....

and now for the kicker.... cranked the engine and it started....

rechecked for codes.... codes gone....

What happened: best guess, is with the amount of rain w had.... the engine compartment was damp..... car sleeps in a garage.... I left the hood up.... and something dried....

I will have the DMM handy when next failure happens.

Thank you for all the tips

Michel
74 wagoneer
83 XR350
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Old 10-21-2007, 02:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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"best guess, is with the amount of rain w had.... the engine compartment was damp..... car sleeps in a garage.... I left the hood up.... and something dried...."


Glad you got the car running again, but you still have a problem. The car should start and run in any kind of weather. Most cars are outside year round and they start and run without a problem. I would continue looking for the problem. Are you the original owner of this car? What I'm getting at is could these codes you pulled have been old codes that were never removed? Usually problems in wet/damp weather are ignition system component related. How old are the spark plug wires, and the distributor cap and rotor? If these items are very old, change them out with new ones. If the problem continues go on to check the coil with a DVM and the specs from any manual. The coils on these early generation Camrys were known trouble areas. They have a tendancy to develope hairline cracks and can short themselves to ground on any metal area inside the distributor in wet/damp weather. A replacement aftermarket coil is around $40.

Good luck.

Mike
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Old 10-21-2007, 02:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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+1

CEL codes usually don't disappear unless you disconnect the battery terminals.
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Old 10-22-2007, 10:11 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monito View Post
+1

CEL codes usually don't disappear unless you disconnect the battery terminals.
This is what i thought...... troubles ahead.....

As for Mike's suggestions.... i agreed, we need to be on the look out....

wires and coil look good... they were replaced last year....

The AFM connector was a tad loose... so may be water had built up.... Yes most of my vehicle sleep outside.... and can start wo a problem (but these have barely any electronics.... except the ipod or the radio....)

thank you

Michel
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83XR350
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Old 10-22-2007, 02:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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"The AFM connector was a tad loose... so may be water had built up.... "

That may have been your problem. If moisture seeped in to that connector, you could get some very wierd things happening. I assume you reseated it. If there was any rusting at the connection I would clean that up with some spray contact cleaner, or at least try spraying some WD-40 on the connector and reseating it a couple of times.

Mike
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Old 10-22-2007, 02:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
"The AFM connector was a tad loose... so may be water had built up.... "

That may have been your problem. If moisture seeped in to that connector, you could get some very wierd things happening. I assume you reseated it. If there was any rusting at the connection I would clean that up with some spray contact cleaner, or at least try spraying some WD-40 on the connector and reseating it a couple of times.

Mike

Mike, thank you, I did the clean up, but did not spray w wd or other... but will put some dielectric grease....

It was funny that the connector unseated... it is even hard to pull it without pricking the spring.....

cheers

Michel
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Old 10-22-2007, 04:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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"but will put some dielectric grease...."

That is a good idea. If it is running good now and that was the problem, the dielectric grease should keep the moisture out. I mentioned the WD-40 since that will clean up any corrosion that got in there, and most people have some around the house. You may still want to use the WD-40 to clean things up and then use the dielectric grease as a preventative.

Mike
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Old 10-22-2007, 05:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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if there is corrosion, WD-40 won't remove it w/ out rubbing and/or scraping. use an electrical contact cleaner.


this is safer for electronic contacts and dries much quicker than WD-40
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