1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
This has really begun to bother me. I can't make a left turn onto a road with a dip or even a really hard left turn on flat ground without this scraping noise. I searched some of the older threads, but only came up with someone mentioning bottom-out stops.
It sounds like something plastic is scraping ground but all I can see inside the wheel well is that the tire might be rubbing a piece of metal directly above the inside of the tire (will post pics eventually).
Again, it only happens when making left turns and its the right front tire where the noise is coming from. I can make really hard right turns without scraping or bottoming out at all.
FYI, all struts were replaced at 77K and the car currently has 82K. I'm planning on getting some stock 87-89 celica springs for the front and replacing the strut mounts at the same time. Are the "stops" easily replacable? Im hoping a combination of the mounts and springs will help. Maybe some urethane sway bar bushings while im down there too...
Before you go and spend money on this problem, I would suggest removing the right front tire and wheel and checking a few things out. If it is rubber on plastic you will probably see a mark where the tire may have been hitting the inner fender. If you recently had some work done there, whoever did the work may have removed the inner fender for better access to something, and possibly broke or left out some of the clips and/or plastic pins that hold the inner fender securely. Also check to see if that right front rotor may be scraping on the inner brake dust shield. The rotors do flex just a bit on turns. Also check to see if the rubber brake line there is fastened securely to the new strut. Sometimes when replacing struts the little screw that holds the brake line to the strut breaks when being removed form the old strut assembly; this could have happened and it may have not been replaced.
I know that the brake lines are tied up, but I will check for all these things when I lift the car up after work today.
It only makes the scraping noise when the suspension is fully compressed on the right side. I think there may be some play in the sway bar because the RF bracket was squished when I got the car, and the junkyard replacement I got isn't perfect either (very small gap between the bar and bushing).
It really sounds like that splash shield for the passenger side (covering the engine) is what scraping the ground, but nothing under the car looks to have fresh scrapes. The splash shield is in perfect condition (not scratched at all).
This is where it shouldn't be rubbing because its behind the RF wheel (possibly from when I had the 195/70R14's on). I never notice any rubbing since the new tires/wheels when the wheel is turned right, so...
This concerns me a little, from the left side (drivers) it looks like the wheel is a normal distance from the fender:
But from the right side (passenger) the tire is closer by a cm or so. I could measure it and would probably be closer:
Is this normal for the wheel to sit back a little further in the pass wheel well? Also the wheel does not have to be turned all the way to the left to make the scraping noise, so it is possible that it only rubs the engine splash shield only then (driveways, bumps etc) at slower speeds.
The car was aligned a year ago. I could take it to a shop with the computer alignment machine tho.
I think the previous owner smashed some parking bricks, or even a curb because the lower front valance was damaged badly and the RF sway bar bracket & bushing was flattened when I got the car.
I am planning to do the front springs, and p/s hose and pump at the same time. Should I just get a replacement LCA (and bushings) to put in at the same time.
"Should I just get a replacement LCA (and bushings) to put in at the same time."
Yes, otherwise you will have to do an alignment again when you get those parts installed. If you do it all now, you won't need to duplicte the alignment and will save some $ in the long run.
I had to replace both of my lower control arms on my car last year to pass inspection. Had to get them from Napa, and they ran me $204 each. That's more than twice the price I had to pay for my old Chrysler .
But I have this same problem on my '89 Camry, except on the LF wheel making hard right turns. My uncle's into rebuilding cars, so I usually look to him for advice and help. He said my stabilizer was broken in two. He also said that it was jammed up inside the car in some way that I don't have to worry about it, it's not going anywhere. I probably broke it at the same time I popped a CV axle, as this was when it seemed to start, too. I hit a really mean invisible pot hole. Seriously, this thing is deep, rough, and you can't see it at all unless you know it's there. Makes me sad. It didn't help that my front struts are currently dead. They don't move. I might as well have 2×4 planks instead. Those are finally getting replaced in a few days, but since I get that sound without any front-end flex, that might rule out some ideas you might have about it.
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