how is motor mount to replace - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Bodar · 10-26-2007, 10:58 PM

ive never had this problem with any yota ive ever owned. so im a complete noob when it comes to this. im sure i can find the locations myself but in case i miss one can u describe where these are. my car exibits all the syptoms of all the motor mounts being screwed. help would be awsome.

fredk · 10-26-2007, 11:47 PM

in gear or out?

Bodar · 10-27-2007, 12:21 AM

wut the hell does that mean?

Dulluthkid_19 · 10-27-2007, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bodar

wut the hell does that mean?

Do you have a clunk/clank/bang noise when you shift from Park to either Reverse or Drive? Do you have any of those symptoms when the transmission shifts? I am assuming you have an automatic, but if you have a manual you still would have the noises when you shift from one gear to the next. If the mounts are really bad then you can get that clank/bang/clunk noise just by quickly revving the engine in neutral. There are 4 mounts total, there are 2 on the sides of the motor, one on each side, that support the weight of the engine and transaxle. Then there are 2 more mounts, one on the front of the engine, and one in the back of the engine. They both bolt to the subframe.

Bodar · 10-27-2007, 08:52 AM

sorry about being dum, i dont know how i didnt get that last night.... lol musta been huffin glue lol. it is a stick. and yes when i shift it does do that. usually only in first and second. and reverse. im assuming it would be the front and back mount that would be gone? yes? this car also has a rough idle. could this be a mount related issue? i was thinking timing or ignition?

Dulluthkid_19 · 10-27-2007, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bodar

sorry about being dum, i dont know how i didnt get that last night.... lol musta been huffin glue lol. it is a stick. and yes when i shift it does do that. usually only in first and second. and reverse. im assuming it would be the front and back mount that would be gone? yes? this car also has a rough idle. could this be a mount related issue? i was thinking timing or ignition?

Yes, the front and rear mounts are the ones that you should replace first to get rid of the clunking sounds. The rough idle feeling may be magnified by the bad motor mounts, but you will find out surely when you change your front and rear mounts...You may have a slightly rough idle and the bad mount are only adding to the symptoms.

Let us know what happens, ok?

Bodar · 10-27-2007, 07:42 PM

ok but what happens when i take the mount off? do i need to brace the engine? i assume so

fredk · 10-27-2007, 08:01 PM

there is a hanger mount on each end of the powertrain, it cant fall out if your changing the twist mounts and do both of them if one is shot

Dulluthkid_19 · 10-28-2007, 02:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bodar

ok but what happens when i take the mount off? do i need to brace the engine? i assume so

Yeah like fredk said, you don't need to brace the engine if you're only changing the twist mounts (front and rear mounts). As long as the hanger mounts on the side of the engine are in place, there is no need to worry about bracing the engine. And like said above, definately change both of them because if one mount went bad, it will cause the other one to go bad if it already hasn't done so.

Dave88LX · 05-21-2008, 10:17 PM

Where is the best place to buy these mounts? My front one at least is worn horribly. So badly that the shifter (stick) will move around during accel/decel, clunking, pops out of 5th etc. I assume the rear is bad too.

Auto Zone wants $50 just for the front, I assume the rear is about the same. I just can't bring myself to spend $100 on mounts for a beater that only cost me $450.

Thanks!

DAVIS3903 · 05-23-2008, 12:47 PM

Dave88lx
I Just Replaced The Two And The Motor Does Not Shake Like There Is A Heard Of Monkeys Under The Hood. The Front Mount (engine) Took All Of Ten Mins To Replace. The Rear Mount (transmission) Took A Bit More Time
I Had To Shorten The Length Of The Bolt So As To Get The Thing In To The Holes. All In All I Would Say Go Ahead And Do It. It Will Make The Ride To Work And Back A Bit Easier And You Can Hear The Radio Better. Bd 90lx 4cyl Auto.

Dave88LX · 05-31-2008, 02:49 PM

Yeah I want to replace them, I just don't want to drop $100 on them.

thefranks5 · 03-04-2010, 02:09 PM

I saw your post from a couple years ago regarding replacing motor mounts on you Camry.

I have a similar Camry - 1990, 4-cylinder, manual - and am looking at replacing the mounts myself. The mechanic has quoted $770 for 5 mounts. Needless to say, although the car runs very well, it is still old, and isn't worth the investment.

I'm an occasional weekend mechanic. I have two Camry's 90 and 91, and they run like champs.

I'm hoping you can give me an idea on the degree of difficulty in doing this job. I'm not sure how many of the mounts are bad, but my mechanic has suggested replacing the two larger mounts on the bottom. About $280 in parts from Toyota.

The mechanic suggested using Toyota parts, rather than an after-market brand, to avoid problems, but the price difference is significant!

Any and all insights would be helpful. I'm guessing I need to put the car up on jack stands in the front, then jack up the engine a tad.

Thanks in advance for anything anyone can share.

thefranks5 · 03-04-2010, 07:08 PM

Thanks for the insights, Davis!

(I'm posting my question and the answer so others can benefit)

-

[quote=DAVIS3903] Well i sure did not spend that kind of money for the mounts and the aftermarket are doing just fine

i payed less than 60 for the two i replaced, from o'rilyes (sp)
level of dificulty is a 3 out of 5
if you have access to an impact wrench it will make things easier if not a good 1/2 inch break over or ratchet. the two i replaced are below the engine one is in front middle close to raditor secon is almost in a straight line back . raise car and then raise the engine with a block of wood under the pan, only need to raise about and inch if that.
the front goes out and in in 15 mins the rear took a bit longer maybe 45 only because i need to shorten the bolts so i could get it up into the space.
getting that one out was easy since it was all broken.

now there is a third mount on the top side HYDRALIC TYPE . IT IS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE
by the strut mount. THAT ONE i have not replaced yet. havent need to. the other two sure took the jumping monkey out of the car.

hope that helps

oh i do not know of where the 4th and 5th mounts are located there may be one on the driver's side of the engine. haven't looked hard enough since it is smooth now.

- - - - - -

I bought four aftermarket mounts... 3 engine and one transmission. The two main ones, front and rear, were $48 and $59, the third is about $57 from NAPA...O'Reilly had all three for a about $117, but they were out of stock, a two day wait. But, still much better than $350 OEM.

The fourth one is a transmission mount, about $42.

This will show my inexperience. I'm not sure where to put the floor jack when trying to raise the entire front end. I'm a little leery of doing it one side at a time on the regular jacking points by the wheels. I'll look online and see if I can find a suggested center jacking point under the car.

Would you suggest doing the front first then the back, or does it make any difference on terms of order?

Yes, it would be nice to get rid of the rumbling monkey herd.

The car's at 244,000 and doing well... no smoke and about 35 mpg. It's got to be one of Toyota's gems. I need to stretch it out a few more months while we save for a newer rig.

Thanks again for your insights. Take the rest of the day off.

Bob F.