Learning the hard way

[littleREDtercel]

Me again.
Still working on the timing belt for my daughters 90 Camry (3SF4, 2.0)
I finally got the harmonic balancer off and the lower timing cover.

I figured from here, it's a snap. WRONG.

After installing the timing belt, lower cover, harmonic balancer and the power stearing belt and adjusting the tension I realized that I should change the water pump. I should have thought of that an hour sooner.

I didn't realize that it was attached from under the timing belt cover, nor did I realize that the timing belt drove the H2O pump. (OK, so I ain't a Toyota mechanic). At least I realized it before completeing the job.

So, I remove the P/S drive belt (Heres where my problem/question comes in) and the H-balancer, lower cover and timing belt.
But, while I was pulling on the P/S sump, I hears a snap, and a small plasctic tube broke off.

Can someone tell me:
1) Why there are two vacuum lines going to the P/S pump, and
2) What will happen if I simply plug them, as opposed to repairing the broken plasctic (looks like a sensor almost) thing?

* I might be able to "crazy glue" the vacuum nipple back on.

[Dave's]

If you attempt gluing it please use an epoxy or JB weld. Much better chance they will work over crazy glue.

[littleREDtercel]

Originally Posted by Dave's

If you attempt gluing it please use an epoxy or JB weld. Much better chance they will work over crazy glue.

Thanks. I happen to have some JB weld.

Any idea what would happen if I just by-passes it (Connecting both vacuum lines to each other)?

[atobe]

why don't you download the manual @ camrymanuals.com ? so you don't have to figure it out as you go. it'll save u a lot of headaches. and most FWD cars the water pump is driven by the timing belt.

[89 2wd]

The vacuum lines control the bypass to make the idle go up when you turn the wheel and the car is at idle. If you disconnect or plug the lines, your car may die when you put the extra load from the p/s pump on the engine at idle, or become very hard to turn.

Usually when the idle control valve fails (cracked o-rings in the valve), it becomes very hard to turn the wheel at normal idle.

Basically the rack and pinion need more assist when you turn the wheel, and as you increase the pressure of the fluid through the system, the pressure allows the valve on the pump to open and bypass the throttle body by moving air through the tubes and into the plenum.

So no, don't disconnect them unless you're really strong or have bicycle tires on the front of your car. It would be wise to just replace the tubes with fuel line or another hose that will not kink.

[Doctor J]

The item you broke is air control valve. As you turning the steering wheel, the pressure buids up in the power steering. This pessure is acting up on the valve,causing it to open the passage allowing the air to go around the throttle plate. This increases the engine speed similar to the A/C idle-up solenoid valve.
If the water pump sprocket has noticeable play, the pump must be replaced.
The trick is that after you removed all the bolts, the pump cover may separate itself from the engine block, which may later result in the leak of the O-ring seal between the pump and the engine block. In the past I have seen customers returning the week after pump was replaced.The proper way is to remove water pump cover with thermostat housing attached and change the o-rings supplied with the gasket and new pump.
You also may pry the grease seals on the belt tensioner and guide rollers ( they are noisy- just replace them) and check the grease .If the grease is brown and looks like wax--add some wheel bearing grease and carefully re-install the seal.
Avoid to use JBM water pump, this is not a good brand, despite been made in Japan. Airtech or TRW are lasting longer.

[littleREDtercel]

Originally Posted by 89 2wd

The vacuum lines control the bypass to make the idle go up when you turn the wheel and the car is at idle. If you disconnect or plug the lines, your car may die when you put the extra load from the p/s pump on the engine at idle, or become very hard to turn.

Usually when the idle control valve fails (cracked o-rings in the valve), it becomes very hard to turn the wheel at normal idle.

Basically the rack and pinion need more assist when you turn the wheel, and as you increase the pressure of the fluid through the system, the pressure allows the valve on the pump to open and bypass the throttle body by moving air through the tubes and into the plenum.

So no, don't disconnect them unless you're really strong or have bicycle tires on the front of your car. It would be wise to just replace the tubes with fuel line or another hose that will not kink.

Thanks so much for the info.

[littleREDtercel]

Originally Posted by Dave's

If you attempt gluing it please use an epoxy or JB weld. Much better chance they will work over crazy glue.

By the way, I uced crazy glue to put the broken vacuum nipple back on, and five minutes later I used JB weld on top of that.
That was a couple of weeks ago.

Thanks again for the support.