1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I just picked up a rusty but trusty '90 Camry as a daily driver, because the gas for my F150 is killing me. With 198K it still drives well, but there are some quirks, and I'm turning to you guys for some help/advise.
1...Even though it worked perfectly yesterday, today I have to fiddle with the ignition key to get it to the start position. I WD40'd it, but still have to force it to get it to work.
2...Even though IT worked perfectly yesterday too, the driver's door lock decided to keep me locked in the car today. Twice, after a drive I thought I was going to be found dead in the car. I eventually was able to muscle the lock button up to get out. When I hit the power button I can see it try to move. Then all of a sudden it decided to work perfectly.
Are these typical problems?
3...Because I'm bucks-down I have to settle for a used set of tires. I came across some wheels & tires from a Dodge Neon that a guy will sell me cheap...185-70-14's. Someone told me that the Neon wheels will fit my car. Does anyone know that for sure? I know they might look kinda stupid, but it's only till next spring.
Thanks
the ign. key prob is normal, it will also come out when its running, dip the key in vaseline and work it around, the door lock prob is the lock motor, vaseline that key too, the wheels are another story, use the yota wheels and watch offset because the rear struts are already pretty close to the inside of the wheel, change all the fluids
The ignition problem is just wear and tear. Mine sometimes sticks a bit, but it's been doing that for several years and it's not getting any worse. A worn key might cause this.
The door lock could be annoying. Try pulling a door lock regulator from a scrap yard car and replace yours.
And no, Neon 14" steel rims will not fit on a Camry. If you can find small-bolt, five-stud GM steelies (like, say, from a Cavalier, Sunbird, Grand Am or Sunfire) they will fit on there. If you have a bottle jack and two long/sturdy screwdrivers (flat-head), you can swap the tires onto your Camry steelies in about an hour. The trickiest part is re-seating the bead after you get the tires onto your rims.
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
the ign. key prob is normal, it will also come out when its running, dip the key in vaseline and work it around, the door lock prob is the lock motor, vaseline that key too, the wheels are another story, use the yota wheels and watch offset because the rear struts are already pretty close to the inside of the wheel, change all the fluids
THANKS
Today the power locks are working perfectly. Even when the driver's door wouldn't unlock, I could see the button wiggling a little, like the solinoid was trying to push it up. Pull as I might, that sucker just wouldn't raise up. I was wondering if something in the mechanism was binding.
The ignition problem is just wear and tear. Mine sometimes sticks a bit, but it's been doing that for several years and it's not getting any worse. A worn key might cause this.
The door lock could be annoying. Try pulling a door lock regulator from a scrap yard car and replace yours.
And no, Neon 14" steel rims will not fit on a Camry. If you can find small-bolt, five-stud GM steelies (like, say, from a Cavalier, Sunbird, Grand Am or Sunfire) they will fit on there. If you have a bottle jack and two long/sturdy screwdrivers (flat-head), you can swap the tires onto your Camry steelies in about an hour. The trickiest part is re-seating the bead after you get the tires onto your rims.
THANKS
"lock regulator"?
Is that the solinoid?
I'm gonna have a new key made for the ignition & see it that helps.
There was a recall on the lock system back in the early 90s for this model. They wired in a resistor or something I believe. What you are describing is what they warned us about. Call up a dealer. I doubt if they'll do it for free but they could tell you what the part was.
The ignition sounds like it is wearing out. There are several electrical connections in there as well which may start wearing out soon. If this happens, even though the key turns the ECU won't be happy. Start looking for a suitable replacement. They are a pain to replace.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
Today the power locks are working perfectly. Even when the driver's door wouldn't unlock, I could see the button wiggling a little, like the solinoid was trying to push it up. Pull as I might, that sucker just wouldn't raise up. I was wondering if something in the mechanism was binding.
MR
I have a similar problem on my passenger lock. Something in the lock mechanism is sticking down in the latch area, most likely. The temp fix for mine is to lift the outer door handle completely then slowly let it down. The door unlocks easily then. Try this on your door. Also, try lubing up the lock mechanisms with some light oil/lube.
-Charlie
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2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
The ignition sounds like it is wearing out. There are several electrical connections in there as well which may start wearing out soon. If this happens, even though the key turns the ECU won't be happy. Start looking for a suitable replacement. They are a pain to replace.
Kep
Well, I went to Walmart today and had a new key made. It's a little bit longer than my old one and it works MUCH better. I can live with it, but will look into a new lock cylinder if it gets worse.
Thanks for the advise.
I have a similar problem on my passenger lock. Something in the lock mechanism is sticking down in the latch area, most likely. The temp fix for mine is to lift the outer door handle completely then slowly let it down. The door unlocks easily then. Try this on your door. Also, try lubing up the lock mechanisms with some light oil/lube.
I don't believe that it was a recall on the lock cylinder. I think it was something electrical that fused and jammed the mechanism. Toyota may help or one of the TN techs may be able to post it.
Kep
__________________
Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
1...The new, slightly longer key works well enough for me to live with it.
2...My son and I pulled the driver's door panel off and sprayed silicone on the door lock mechanism. It seems to work OK for now. While we were in there, we lubed the window mechanicals, and that made the window go up and down a lot smoother and faster. We also sprayed the switches with contact cleaner, and they work better. This is all just stuff that a 17 year old car needs. A new problem has reared it's ugly head, however. I'll start a new post about it.
Thanks again for all your advise.
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