URGENT!! 90 Camry - Sputters Dies if Traffic

[paulcalif]

This is getting dangerous. My daughter owns a 1990 Camry 4cyl. She drives my 4 year old grand daughter around and this car has been stalling in traffic then is very difficult to start. She is dirt poor and I only get the car for a couple of hours at a time. I am willing to take the shot gun approach so please give your best advice at what parts I should consider replacing or cleaning. Thanks in advance.

1. Car usually runs fine until the temp gauge gets close to or at the fully warmed up position.
2. After the car just gets warmed up, it starts sputtering, worse if the car has come to a stop and then sputters really bad when trying to take off. Often the car dies after taking off from a stop under these conditions.
3. Usually, if the car starts to sputter while driving, it will continue to run poorly and almost die, but if the gas pedal is pushed quickly and repeatedly the car will keep running then rev real high just before it starts running good again. At the next stop sign, it does this all over again. Now if the car is stopped again (say at a light) there is a very good chance that it will either sputter and run poorly when taking off, or it will die.
4. If the car is stopped for a couple of min when it starts to sputter the first time, it will usually die.
5. If the car dies, it is very difficult to get started again.
6. If the car keeps running while sputtering, it may run fine for a few minutes, then very bad for 10 to 15 min.
7. Once those 10~15 minutes of bad running have passed, the car again runs fine.
8. This only happens on the first run in the morning.
9. If the car is driven to the point that it starts running good again, then it will drive fine all day, even if the car is stopped and parked for a few hours.
10. The problem only occurs on the first start in the morning and not every day.
11. Cold weather seems to make the problem worse, and maybe rain.
I have the tools, and can check out or change anything, but need some direction, thanks.

[maiser]

Hi. Maybe youve got the same problem as i have with my 90 camry. Read here. I dont know if your problem is the exact same, but its worth reading at least. First thing i would do is to check the diagnostic to see if the electronic has detected any operating malfunction. It might guide you in the right direction.

[atobe]

have you tried swapping out the ignitor? or it could be the TPS.. what part of california are you from. i have a spare ignitor you can try

[Doctor J]

Use paper clip and check the trouble codes first(www.Autozone.com repair information)

1. Using a jumper wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the Data Link Connector
2. Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. Read the diagnostic code by the counting the number of flashes of the malfunction indicator lamp.
3. Codes will flash in numerical order. If no faults are stored, the lamp flashes continuously every 1/2 second. This is sometimes called the Normal or System Clear signal.
4. After the diagnosis check, turn the ignition OFF and remove the jumper wire.
5. Compare the codes found to the applicable diagnostic code chart. If necessary, refer to the individual component tests in this section. If the component tests are OK, test the wire harness and connectors for shorts, opens and poor connections.

[paulcalif]

I am in South Orange county - I like the swapping parts idea.

[monito]

You guage cluster is an important tool. What lights are screaming at you? Check Engine Light (CEL), Battery, brake, seat belt, lights, etc...

if you have a CEL, read the diagnostic codes off of the diagnostic port.

If you have Brakes, Lights, and battery lit up simultaneously, you could have charging system problems. Most likely the alternator.

but, the symptoms you described sound more like a restricted air flow problem. or perhaps fuel delivery.

re-reading you're original post, i didn't see any mention of a full tune-up. If it hasn't been done, try doing that. Since it's a 4-cyl, it should be relatively easy to do yourself
-Oil and Oil filter change
-fuel filter
-air filter
-spark plugs
-spark plug cables
-distributor cap and rotor
-in the diagnostic port, jump terminals E1 and T to read the CEL codes


also, if you don't have a Camry manual, there's an online manual stickied at the top of the all the camry boards. Grab the manual for Gen 2

[paulcalif]

No check eng light, but I will try checking for codes, thanks.

[paulcalif]

We haven't done a complete tune-up, but she has only had the car a short time. I am certain the last owner was having this problem too, but didn't disclose it. It looks like most of the tune-up parts have been replaced, plug wires look new too.

[paulcalif]

Oh, and no trouble lights on the dash

[paulcalif]

Well - I pulled both 24 and a 31 trouble codes. Now off to figure out what those are.

[atobe]

24 = intake air temp sensor
31=air flow meter signal

could it be that your maf box is broken ?

[paulcalif]

Well, now that we have found the area to look in, my daughter has taken the car back home, argh! 30 miles away and it's raining. Anyone have a MAF they would like to loan me for a few days???

I see they have a couple on ebay.

Next time I get the car over here I will test it out. Maybe it's just a lose connection???

Thanks everyone -

[Doctor J]

Inspect both sides of connector on the air flow meter; make sure that female terminals are not pushed in their cavities, also verify that the connector clip holds secure.
If all terminals are in good condition,

• re-connect the plug back,
• start the engine
• with engine running move the wire bundle to the air flow meter

If engine sputters, the problem is within the wiring
If moving the wire makes no effect, lightly tap the black cover on top of AFM.
If engine sputters, the air flow meter needs to be repaired
PS: only the HARD faults are causing steady check engine light.

[atobe]

well i'm in the san gabriel area.. you can use my car for spare parts if you need.. it's been in the garage for a few months.

[Tom 2000]

I had the same problem when I had my gen2 years ago. It was the coil.

The coil is inside the distributor and you need to remove the distributor to remove the coil.

The coil was about $80 from the Toyota dealer (this was like 1998). You can also get the coil from aftermarket sources for less. You'll want to replace the distributor O-ring also.

The car ran very well after that for many years.