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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 12-12-2007, 12:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1988 Car wont turn over

I been having this problem for several days now. My 1988 Toyota Camry All Trac LE wont turn over when key is put in to start mode. I push the clutch down twist the key and power seems to die away. I here the clicking sound coming from the fuse box in the engine compartment I replaced the starter and did a meter check on the battery and all looks good. I also here clicking noise coming from within the car as well. I was thinking it could be a bad coil or ignition problem as well I have replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs and wires.

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Old 12-12-2007, 02:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Are you hearing 1 click or multiple rapid clicks?

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Old 12-12-2007, 02:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It's a starter problem. To see if it's the starter system (starter motor or starter solenoid), jump the battery. If it turns over and starts, the battery was too low. If there's clicking again, check the motor or solenoid.
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Old 12-12-2007, 09:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah, my money is on the battery...you said you meter checked the battery. Did you perform a load test? A battery can read 12+ volts and still crap-out when a load is applied.

I second Skiermang's suggestion to jump the battery. I'll bet she'll start.
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Old 12-13-2007, 04:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Well I am getting multiple clicks not to mention I have been able to get it started with the old trick, push the car hop in it and try to start it but the other day i tryed to do that and it failed to start just multiple clicks and some odd reason the clock dims out when key is in start mode. It could be the batteries cold crank amps.
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Make sure the battery terminals are clean and free of corrosion. A jump start with the cables directly attached to the pos/neg battery cables would show a bad connection between the batt. and the cables.
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Old 12-13-2007, 02:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badgey View Post
Well I am getting multiple clicks not to mention I have been able to get it started with the old trick, push the car hop in it and try to start it but the other day i tryed to do that and it failed to start just multiple clicks and some odd reason the clock dims out when key is in start mode. It could be the batteries cold crank amps.
The multiple rapid clicking is usually an indication of a weak battery, or loose or corroded battery cable connections at either the battery posts or the starter. Try jump starting it or recharging the battery and then trying to start it. If it then starts normally, you know the battery is weak. Remember a weak battery does not necessarily mean a bad battery. The charging system may also be at fault. You need to check both the battery and charging system if tests indicate a weak battery.

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Old 12-13-2007, 10:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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OK I had my car jump started and it cranked right up so from the information I have been given it looks like a weak battery. I went ahead and cleaned the battery terminals and replaced the negative and positive connectors since they show lots of wear (after 20 years I think its time to replace the connectors). Thanks for all your help
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Old 12-14-2007, 12:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badgey View Post
OK I had my car jump started and it cranked right up so from the information I have been given it looks like a weak battery. I went ahead and cleaned the battery terminals and replaced the negative and positive connectors since they show lots of wear (after 20 years I think its time to replace the connectors). Thanks for all your help


You will know if just cleaning the terminals and replacing the connectors has solved your problem, after the car has been sitting for a while when you go to start it. Usually a car sitting overnight will give you a good indication of the condition of everything.

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Old 12-14-2007, 02:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Use corrosion pads if you replace the battery!

And make sure the cables are wire brushed clean. I use corrosion pads and have no problems at all. It's a cheap investment anywz...
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Old 12-15-2007, 11:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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A lot of auto parts stores and some mechanics will check your battery and charging system for free. This will help to determine if it is a bad battery or a bad alternator.

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Old 12-18-2007, 04:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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hi i'm new (please scroll down for shorter solution
when i bought my camry 2 years ago it had similar problems. i thought it was just cos it was old and decided to let it be. until it had to survive it's second winter without using the air con. When summer came round i used the aircon for the first time in ages and it would only last 10 minutes then start flashing and stop cooling. i thought nothing of it and just stopped using the aircon for a but until one particularly hot day when i turned it on to see if it would work and it did for a few kms then it stopped again and i reached my destination and stopped the car and went into the house. when i came out after the meeting i hopped into my car and tried to turn it on and much to my dismay and great frustration and embarrassment (my girlfriend was in the car) it didn't start. i thought it was just a dead battery but when racq arrived they tried to jump it but to no avail. so they tried 2 batteries and it started but soon after it started smoking and then conked out. the air compressor had siezed up and would no longer allow the belt circuit that it was on go and so i had to get towed home. how sad. my quick solution was to take the compressor out (as a new one would cost 1000 bucks or more according to any quotes i got) and use a smaller belt and bypass the compressor. only problem is i can't remove the compressor completely cos current cfc laws make that impossible without propper degassing. my next solution is to take the wheel off the compressor (because that is in the way of the new belt). but i can't figure out how to take that wheel off because it's either stuck on from when it siezed or its got some other more complicated thing on it. anyone have any ideas how to take it off?

moral of the story get your aircon serviced before it breaks!!!!

thanks for your patience

Pip

shorter version : the compressor for your aircon might have siezed and will then be preventing anything turning over. quick solution would be to bypass the compressor with a shorter belt (i used a 1010mm belt which fits quite snugly) and get the compressor taken out by a pro (shouldn't cost too much) or figure out how to take the wheel off the compressor and if you figure that out please tell me!!
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:29 AM   #13 (permalink)
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hehe its nothing that serious mate I believe you had some bad luck when it came to your A/C unit but all is good now I just needed a new battery. From what I found out when I went to AutoZone is that the battery that I original had in the car since I bought it was warranty till 2005 well the battery went past its do date plus what really gets me steamed is the battery that was in there was also the wrong type of battery to begin with errr. So now I have the right one and 3 years to its name warranty, I am starting up much faster and things are looking good. But talking about A/C stuff well thats going to be my next thread mate.
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