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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-21-2008, 11:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Hi Ya! FNG here. Have a question

Hi. Always nice to find these forums since I'm always buying raggidy used cars! I've gotten this '90 Lexus ES250, 2.6l auto. Looks, runs, and drives pretty decent. But of course an 18 year old car has character. (problems) I want to change the spark plugs and was hoping for a pointer or two on the back bank. Best way to go in? Anything need removed first? I've got lift capabilities so I can go in thru the bottom if needed.
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Old 01-21-2008, 10:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Several of us have discussed this indepth in the past, so try a search of the forum for exact tips and procedures. It is a PITA to get at the rear cylinder bank, but you can do it (you'll lose a small amount of skin from your arm though...).

If you don't already have one, buy a ratchet set with a "wobble", or an articulated extension that allows ratcheting on an angle.
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Old 01-21-2008, 10:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I've got one.

I've got one of those. Thanks. Going to give it a shot tomorrow. Hopefully by time I retorqe the control arm bushing nuts after replacing the bushings last week, check out the leaking PS pump and inspect the undercarriage it'll be cooled down enough to do it!
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Old 01-22-2008, 03:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I wish my problem was waiting for the car to "cool down"...it's 20-below outside right now. I have to run the car for 20 minutes BEFORE I work on it so my flesh doesn't stick to metal!
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Old 01-22-2008, 04:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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In case you were wondering, you do NOT need to remove the plenum to change the spark plugs, i did mine without removing it. What you need is a lot of socket extensions, some masking tape or electrical tape, rubber gloves for your hands, and plenty of patience!

Now you have to remove those 3 tough ones in back. the one in the back of the engine next to the firewall on passenger side is relatively easy and is good practice for the other two. Use a 1/4" socket, or box open end wrench 10 mm size for the spark plug coil bolt. Remove the bolt, use care not to drop it. Unclip the electrical connector (the 3 plugs in front show you how). Twist and remove the coil.
fool around with your socket extensions until you find one that fits just right. (Wrap tape around the socket extension and socket to hold them together so you are not fishing the socket out of the hole later!) use your 1/4" ratchet, it is the smallest, and an adapter to remove the plug a 1/8 turn at a time.

Now the last two, in back. I accesed the middle plug by reaching my arm through under the plenum, passenger side, and also by looking and feeling through the gap in the plenum. I used this tool:


It is called a sidewinder, i got it from harbor freight for $10 and paid for itself when i did the plugs. Not sure how i would have gotten the middle plug out without it.

The final two i got out by manipulating various socket combinations and sizes into the tiny space available. The smaller the socket wrench, the better as is painfully obvious there is very little room for access to the rear plugs. I recommend the rubber gloves because when i got done with this chore, my hands were scraped and bleeding a little. The trade off vs paying somebody else to do this vs you doing all this yourself is something you have to decide for yourself.

It can be done but you may not find it easy. And set aside several hours time for a healthy fudge factor before doing this job. IMO It was still easier my way than removing the plenum.
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Old 01-22-2008, 06:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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OK! i DID IT!

Just got back from changing the plugs. Major pain in the knutts. The only one that was a real problem was the center rear. An articualating wratchet is the only way to go here. And then the hard part was getting the wire to unseat and reseat. Plug removal really wasn't an issue. Nor installation. The 1st Plug on the rear required that I loosen the lower bolt on the upper intake bracket and remove the upper bolt. This to move the bracket enough to pull the plug wire out. Other'n that, twernt no real big deal 'cept time. Next time I get to change the front head gasket so I'll do it right.
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah, getting that center plug wire to unseat can be a giant PITA. No leverage to pull on it effectively after you've rotated it.

Well done, man! Hopefully you didn't lose too much knuckle skin.
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