Motor teardown, take two: taking requests

[Skiermang]

I received my JDM motor from Nippon Motors today. I'll be tearing it down to the block to plasti-gage the bearings, replace seals and all the good stuff you have to do with a new-to-you motor. If anyone has requests on how things are put together or come apart, let me know and I'll do my best to take pictures of it.

The JDM motor is a bit different than the USDM motor, though. A quick inspection shows the throttle body is different, the intake manifold is a little different, the valve cover is different, the crank pulley is different and the exhaust heatshield differs.

[mcx]

the timing belt area and oil pump disassembly in detail would be appreciated.

[Doctor J]

The motor you received is most likely from Carina/RAV-4

[chasman]

Pictures of the most common oil leak sites on the 3SFE engine would be very helpful.

I'll be tearing it down to the block to plasti-gage the bearings, replace seals and all the good stuff you have to do with a new-to-you motor.

• Are the used JDM motors not typically in good enough condition that they can be installed as is?

• How much longer are the used JDM motors likely to last if one has them rebuilt first? - Is it worth the additional labor expense for those of us who are not mechanics?

Since you've purchased a used JDM motor, you may wish to check out this new poll.

[Skiermang]

Originally Posted by chasman

Pictures of the most common oil leak sites on the 3SFE engine would be very helpful.

• Are the used JDM motors not typically in good enough condition that they can be installed as is?

• How much longer are the used JDM motors likely to last if one has them rebuilt first? - Is it worth the additional labor expense for those of us who are not mechanics?

Since you've purchased a used JDM motor, you may wish to check out this new poll.

Can you give examples of oil leak locations? I only had one leak, around cylinder 4's head gasket area.

While the engine appears to be in decent condition from the outside to install, the motor is already out so it's not hard to tear it down and replace all the gaskets and seals. Also, a requirement of the six month warranty on the motor is to replace almost every gasket and seal. I have a top end gasket kit on the way and need another $15 or so of gaskets for the bottom end.

A used motor's lifespan varies greatly by how it was taken care of. However, if all the bearings are replaced or measured in spec, I imagine the motor should go 200,000 miles if you take care of it.

I saw the poll earlier and will post when I have more information about the internals of the motor. I'm off now to take the head off.

[chasman]

Can you give examples of oil leak locations?

• Cam & crank seals
• Distributor o-ring
• Rear main seal

Thanks!

[Doctor J]

Some companies are selling the motor that came from California wrecked RAV-4;they cleaning them, spraying them with clear coat and selling them as imported directly from Japan.

[Skiermang]

I plast-gaged the bottom end. The connection rod bearings are all in spec but every main bearing is a bit over what the factory service manual says is acceptable. However, the measured clearance is under the "maximum oil clearance." Does that mean I'm still ok or should I order bearings? Also, cylinder #3's connecting rod cap has more play than the FSM specs. Is it worth trying the #3 piston and con rod from the old motor or just use the new one that's slightly out of spec? I have a ton of pictures, I'm hoping to get to the tomorrow night.

[Doctor J]

Bearing Oil Clearance The difference between the outside diameter of the crankshaft bearing journal or crankpin and the inside diameter of the fully assembled bearing. This is the space that becomes filled with oil when the engine is started and remains filled with oil as it runs. Bearing oil clearance is usually measured with a crushable Plastigage insert.(Automotive definitions).Therefore its OK to use main bearings as-is.Transfering the piston-rod assy from one engine to another is good for pre-81 domestic cars, but not for 3SFE. Are you referring for the thrust play of the lower rod end on the crank journal?

[Skiermang]

Originally Posted by Doctor J

Bearing Oil Clearance The difference between the outside diameter of the crankshaft bearing journal or crankpin and the inside diameter of the fully assembled bearing. This is the space that becomes filled with oil when the engine is started and remains filled with oil as it runs. Bearing oil clearance is usually measured with a crushable Plastigage insert.(Automotive definitions).Therefore its OK to use main bearings as-is.Transfering the piston-rod assy from one engine to another is good for pre-81 domestic cars, but not for 3SFE. Are you referring for the thrust play of the lower rod end on the crank journal?

Glad to know the clearance is ok.

Yes, I'm referring to the thrust on the connecting rod cap.

[Doctor J]

You may try the old rod only not the piston

[fredk]

hey doc, do you think the rods in these motors are close enough in weight to swap a rod from another motor and it still stay in balance?

[Doctor J]

As far as I know there are no weight groups for rods.