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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 03-20-2008, 03:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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cv joints -- need help SOON

hey i got a 1987 camry, 5 speed, 180,000 miles. front wheel drive. i need to put a new drivers side cv joint on it. the boot is torn and it makes the clicking sound when turning slowly right. so, can anyone tell me if this is a job that i should attempt myself, i have done some brake jobs, tranny service , and basic stuff, but have never torn apart the front end of a car like that, and i have no experience really with cv joints. my question are:

#1- what all tools will i need
#2- is this something that i should try , because i have a shop that will do it for $140. this car is from wisconsin, and the bottom of it has quite a bit of rust so i am worried that if i go trying to remove bolts and they dont want to budge, then i might end up breaking something or worse, and cause myself even more pain/money. any advice?
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Old 03-20-2008, 03:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Does the $140 a shop quoted you include the parts?

Instead of getting just the join, you can replace the entire axle for a little bit more. For my '89 Camry I can get a remanufactured axle for $70 from the parts store.

I think you will need a 32mm socket for the axle and you'll need to remove the lower control arm to lower ball joint bolts to move the hub out of the way to remove the axle.
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Old 03-20-2008, 03:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the $140 includes parts, labor and all. seemed like a decent price
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Old 03-20-2008, 03:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I paid $140 just for the parts when I changed my Axel last, lol. Hell, have them do it for that price.
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Old 03-20-2008, 03:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That 32MM nut that Skiermang referred to is held on with quite a lot of torque. You will need an impact wrench or a good long breaker bar to break it loose. That fact may help you make your decision on whether to do the job yourself or go with that $140 quote. By the way, that quote sounds pretty cheap to me. It's usually around $200-$220 in my area.

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Old 03-20-2008, 08:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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^^ I agree with everyone else: $140 for parts AND labour is a great deal. Hell, I've changed these stupid driveaxles countless times and I'd shell out the cash if I got a quote that low.

If you end-up doing it yourself, you will need an allen bit (forgot which size) for the inboard axle housing. There are six allen-head bolts securing the outer shaft to the inner...
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiermang View Post
Does the $140 a shop quoted you include the parts?

Instead of getting just the join, you can replace the entire axle for a little bit more. For my '89 Camry I can get a remanufactured axle for $70 from the parts store.

I think you will need a 32mm socket for the axle and you'll need to remove the lower control arm to lower ball joint bolts to move the hub out of the way to remove the axle.

Its a 30mm but thats a good guess
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
That 32MM nut that Skiermang referred to is held on with quite a lot of torque. You will need an impact wrench or a good long breaker bar to break it loose. That fact may help you make your decision on whether to do the job yourself or go with that $140 quote. By the way, that quote sounds pretty cheap to me. It's usually around $200-$220 in my area.

Mike

2 foot 1/2" breaker bar works wonders for that and the stubborn bolts on the shock
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiermang View Post
Does the $140 a shop quoted you include the parts?

Instead of getting just the join, you can replace the entire axle for a little bit more. For my '89 Camry I can get a remanufactured axle for $70 from the parts store.

I think you will need a 32mm socket for the axle and you'll need to remove the lower control arm to lower ball joint bolts to move the hub out of the way to remove the axle.

If he does replace the whole axle he might as well replace the oil seal on the bearing . Come to think of it the easiest cheapest solution would be to pull an entire steering knuckle and shaft from a junker with good bearings and non clicking axles . A 91' would be a good donor .
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Old 03-27-2008, 06:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Had mine done a year ago for $120. It's definitely worth paying someone else to do it.
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:39 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBayToyotaBoy View Post
^^ I agree with everyone else: $140 for parts AND labour is a great deal. Hell, I've changed these stupid driveaxles countless times and I'd shell out the cash if I got a quote that low.

If you end-up doing it yourself, you will need an allen bit (forgot which size) for the inboard axle housing. There are six allen-head bolts securing the outer shaft to the inner...
The 4-cylinder 5-speed axles I have seen are the pop-in type with no inner/outer joined by bolts. Either way, $140 is a deal for installed reman'd axles. Price for parts is $60-$100 depending on axle type (bolt in, pop-in, V6 or 4 cylinder).

-Charlie
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Old 03-28-2008, 06:40 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white90dx View Post
The 4-cylinder 5-speed axles I have seen are the pop-in type with no inner/outer joined by bolts. Either way, $140 is a deal for installed reman'd axles. Price for parts is $60-$100 depending on axle type (bolt in, pop-in, V6 or 4 cylinder).

-Charlie
The automatics are the same once you tap it out of the bearing it slides out of the tranny .
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Old 03-28-2008, 07:53 AM   #13 (permalink)
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..its a easy repair...i used a pipe as a breaker bar to get it apart.
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