1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Any toyota idle up solenoid will work (I used one from 84 camry with connector). The design of original solenoid with coil ends spot welded to the terminals makes it fail at the weld place .The old style pig-tail design does not have this defect. All you need to splice the wires (they are the same color).The solenoid resistance specs 40 to 45 ohms.
thx for the info...i just by-passed it till i can find a good used piece..i wont pay full price for a dealer replacement...sofar it seems to work fine since i readusted the idle rpm.
Can you please tell me where to look for my A/C idle up solenoid on my 1991 Camry with auto trans ?
It doesn't work at all, which prevents the A/C from working when driving in town where it needs to idle at every stop, etc. If I can simply fix/replace this, it would work, I think...
I've been searching for diagrams or something but haven't found a clue as to where it is yet.
Is the "Idle Control Valve" the problem ? Or is there a separate A/C idle up device ?
The A/C idle-up valve on my 1991 Camry has failed too. Anyone know the part number for this item or where it's sold online? I can't seem to locate a dealer. Thanks.
thx for the info...i just by-passed it till i can find a good used piece..i wont pay full price for a dealer replacement...sofar it seems to work fine since i readusted the idle rpm.
Is there any problem with bypassing the valve (other than slightly faster idle)? Mine appears to be getting no signal from the A/C amplifier and I don't want to replace that if I can help it. ($$$) I bypassed the valve tonight to see what it would do - the idle came up enough to engage the compressor and cool air is there at idle now.
(Sorry, I accidentally posted this in the truck forum first. I got directed there doing a search for A/C VSV's)
Is there any problem with bypassing the valve (other than slightly faster idle)? Mine appears to be getting no signal from the A/C amplifier and I don't want to replace that if I can help it. ($$$) I bypassed the valve tonight to see what it would do - the idle came up enough to engage the compressor and cool air is there at idle now.
(Sorry, I accidentally posted this in the truck forum first. I got directed there doing a search for A/C VSV's)
Thanks to mcx for the PM. I will probably just leave the valve bypassed since the engine only idles a tad bit faster and everything is working fine. If you need to bypass it, just pull off one vacuum hose on the valve on the manifold and connect both the inlet and outlet on the valve together. Kind of making a U with the tubing. No problems so far running it that way.
A lot cheaper than a new solenoid and A/C amplifier module (mine are both bad.)
I've posted before with the same problem as others on this thread: no idle-up when the A/C is on in my 91 Camry. I actually did the same thing as "wmcot", bypassing the solenoid all together, and as he has found, it worked just fine.
I did end up buying a new solenoid eventually, though, and tried replacing it. Surprisingly it does not fix the problem. It's definitely getting voltage when the A/C is on, as I checked with a voltmeter. The solenoid seems to be working as I can't blow through it without voltage, but I can when I apply 12V.
I even replaced the small hoses. Everything is brand new and from Toyota. I just can't seem to get it to idle up through the solenoid. The only thing I've noticed is that the solenoid doesn't quite give a complete connection. That is, when I blow through it with voltage applied, there's the slightest bit more pressure than when I blow through just one of the hoses.
I've tried adjusting the big plastic adjustment screw on the vacuum diaphragm, and still nothing. Maybe the whole body isn't pulling enough of a vacuum to overcome the loss in solenoid? Anyone have any ideas?
I've posted before with the same problem as others on this thread: no idle-up when the A/C is on in my 91 Camry. I actually did the same thing as "wmcot", bypassing the solenoid all together, and as he has found, it worked just fine.
I did end up buying a new solenoid eventually, though, and tried replacing it. Surprisingly it does not fix the problem. It's definitely getting voltage when the A/C is on, as I checked with a voltmeter. The solenoid seems to be working as I can't blow through it without voltage, but I can when I apply 12V.
I even replaced the small hoses. Everything is brand new and from Toyota. I just can't seem to get it to idle up through the solenoid. The only thing I've noticed is that the solenoid doesn't quite give a complete connection. That is, when I blow through it with voltage applied, there's the slightest bit more pressure than when I blow through just one of the hoses.
I've tried adjusting the big plastic adjustment screw on the vacuum diaphragm, and still nothing. Maybe the whole body isn't pulling enough of a vacuum to overcome the loss in solenoid? Anyone have any ideas?
What kind of voltage are you getting across the two terminals of the solenoid? You should get about 12 volts when the solenoid is engaged and close to 0 volts when it is closed. Mine gets about 5-6 volts all the time which tells me that the A/C Amplifier (that's what Toyota calls it, it's actually a controller) is bad. I haven't even priced it based on the outrageous price of the valve alone! Anybody replaced it? (Or even know where it is located?)
I'm getting a full 12V when the A/C is on, and 0 when off. I took off the relay and checked it again. With no voltage, I can't blow through the hoses, but with 12V, there's still considerable resistance. Does anyone know how much the valve should open when voltage is applied? Should you be able to blow through it easily? It's a brand-new valve, so I can't imagine that it is bad.
As for the A/C amplifier, I believe it's behind the glove box. It should also have the low-idle cutoff adjustment screw on it. If you don't want to replace it, you could always jury-rig a solution where the A/C light in the instrument panel powers a relay that in turn powers on the solenoid.
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