Removing and cleaning the Neutral Start Switch

[WannaBButch]

Removing and cleaning the Neutral Start Switch or Neutral Safety switch.

I suggest before you start this project you have these things on hand: Dielectric or boot grease, Electronic parts cleaner, Cleaning pics, paper towels, and of course tools.


WARNING: Block your rear tires and put on the E-brake. My car tried to run away and resulted in me dashing after it like a crazy woman.

Here is a pic of what it looks like while still on the car.




Here it is off the car




I started by removing the shift lever and the nuts on the shaft. (here’s where my car rolled backwards out of the driveway) I then removed the two bolts on the left and right of the Neutral Start Switch. I tried pulling the switch off but it wouldn’t move. I removed the battery and the tx dipstick to get a better angle. I sprayed some PBblaster on the shaft and then was able to gently pry each side of the NSS until it gave way and I was able to pull it off.



Here is a pic of the shaft without the NSS on it.




I then removed the six screws on the back of the case and bent the two little prongs back on the metal strap across the top and pulled the switch apart. This was the point that I knew for sure that my problems would be solved.








Inside the switch there was what I will refer to as a wiper arm with two brass connecters on two springs sunk inside the arm. These were so full of crap that the brass pieces couldn’t make contact with the switch. I pulled out the connectors and the springs and cleaned them with degreaser, and my picks.


Before





After




Then I cleaned the switch itself with the picks and degreaser and gave the plug connector at the top a nice spray of electronic parts cleaner. I coated the springs and contacts on the wiper arm with the dielectric grease. I also liberally coated the contacts on the switch itself with the grease.








I put it all back together and got it on the car and then had to adjust it which I thought would be a pain but only took a few minutes of loosening and repositioning and finally I got it! I put everything back together like it was before I took it apart and lo and behold I now have reverse lights, dash indicators, and it starts with the key again! For those of you that are afraid to do this yourself, (especially after looking up the part realizing it costs $300.00) don’t worry. It was actually a heck of a lot easer than I thought it would be. Have some faith in yourself and good luck.

[Kep]

Excellent DIY

Thanks for the pics!

Kep

[fairladyZX]

awesome write up! glad to see you have your problems solved

[aych]

whoo! thanks for the info, i've been looking forever but too scared to do it. i'm going to do it once this snowstorm lets up and it gets into the plus side of things again!

[WannaBButch]

Just an update. I noticed today that unfortunately this did not fix my problems with the car not starting with the key. Any more ideas anyone?

[Kep]

WannaBButch, I would suggest starting a new post. I doubt if you get the readership on this one.

Going back to your original post, you mentioned that you could start it reliably with a button switch. That pretty much exhonorates everything except the ignition switch (you said you replaced it. With new or used?) and the wiring from the switch to the starter (I tend to think that if the wiring from the switch to the ECM was a problem that the button switch wouldn't work either. Not sure, but seems logical.) Several previous posts about other things mention wires draped over the steering column that break. Maybe this one does too. If you still have the old switch, you could examine it to get a better idea of just which wires do what. It might narrow your search somewhat.

Kep

[aych]

hm. is there any major issues if i dont put diaelectric grease on it?

[WannaBButch]

It can and probably will burn up the switch.

[Dave88LX]

Why wouldn't you put the grease on it? It's like $3 for a little tube of it. Anything doing is worth doing right.

With that said...

What exactly does this thing do, and what are the symptoms of a dirty/failing one?

Only related issue I can think of that I have is that I have to have the clutch pressed WAY down to start the car, but that's probably more of an adjustment thing.

Nice DIY write-up!!!!

[fourdrinie]

This is only on an automatic transmission...it is not on a manual transmission.

[Dave88LX]

Got it, thanks!

[aych]

done! but my "N" doesn't light up ><! must've burnt a bulb

[WannaBButch]

Yeah Toyota uses those damn mini bulbs in their indicator and they burn out like crazy. They are two dollars for a pack of two in radio shack or you can do like I'm doing and get a handful from the salvage yard and probably not be charged for them. I had no idea until the other day that the "cruise" and other push buttons for defrost and hazard lights are supposed to be lit constantly. They have seperate led's that light up only when they're pressed. Needless to say, I went on a light bulb frenzy.

[EJVM]

Thanks for the fantastic pictures WannaBButch! I did the same thing to my wife's 1995 Camry after we were having trouble with it starting. Cleaned it all out and lubed it with dilectric grease, but I am still having a heck of a time starting the car. When it's cold we have to hold the key in the start position and wiggle the shifter lever in just the right place (usually near the neutral position) and then it catches and starts. Once we drive it for a while and warm it up she'll start no problem - very reliable without any wiggle help in Park. I've tried adjusting the switch to different positions, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. Have you had any more luck troubleshooting the problem?

[aych]

have you realigned your cable properly?