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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 04-21-2008, 06:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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86 camry quit running

I pulled into a parking lot yesterday and the car just died. On the restart attempts it turns over easily and almost sounds like it wants to start but won't. Other than a broken timing belt what could I possibly be looking at. What steps should I do before doing the disassembly required to check if the timing belt is actually broken. Is it possible the belt slipped a tooth and how do I prove that? Help, please I REALLY don't want to go after the timing belt.
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Remove the distributor cap, have someone crank the engine while you watch to determine if the rotor moves. If not, it is a broken timing belt.

Rotate the engine crank to TDC on the compression stroke; determine if the rotor is pointed to the number one ignition wire on the cap.

Remove the ign wire going to distributor cap, hold about 3/8 inch for a ground point on the car, crank engine and check for spark.

Would also check all the fuses. If a carburetor or FI spray some start fluid into it while you crank to determine if actually tries to start. If so, you may have a fuel delivery issue.

Check all the fuses.
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Old 04-21-2008, 10:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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When you first turn the key to the on position the dash lights come on to show that they work (a kind of POST routine). The CEL should come on. If it doesn't, check the EFI Main Relay and the EFI fuse.

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Old 04-21-2008, 10:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys---I'll try these out tomorrow. The CEL light does come on.
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Old 04-22-2008, 05:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks, toyomoho----I pulled the distributer cap off -- cranked and the rotor turned--yea not a broken timing belt. Had fire at all plugs--testng fuel pump--got it to halfway start,then "whump"---rotor doesn't turn anymore. Now I'm sure the timing belt broke. I'm thinking it had slipped a tooth or two and that's what made it quit running. Now the question---300.00 to have the belt replaced on a vehicle that needs rear struts and has a questionable clutch and spend the next month working on this or go fishing? With gas prices going up I've enjoyed the 30mpg. I've read the book and I think given enough time I could replace the belt,but it is really gonna mess with my fishing.
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It's really not too bad ! I just did mine last weekend, be sure to check your idler and tensioner pulleys before replacing the belt . E-bay has complete kits for around $45 I was faced with the same decision at 180,000 when one broke on me , I'm so glad I kept the ol' beast running !! :0)
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Old 04-24-2008, 06:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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If the pulleys were bad, would it be easy to tell? I'm assuming there would be a lot of play in a bad one.
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Old 04-24-2008, 10:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I would just make sure they spin smoothly without any bearing noise or play. Not sure how many miles you have on your engine, but you might might want to consider replacing them as preventitive maitainance. Like I mentioned you can get a complete kit for $50 or so. I'm sure you can find out the step by step procedures on line for completing the task, but I'm glad I purchased a factory repair manual awhile back , worth it's weight in gold ! :0)
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