1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
My '83 Camry is hard to start if the air temperature is over 60 F and acts like the engine is flooded until it''s warmed up. There is also excessive fuel consumption during engine warm-up.
It''s easy to start if the air temp is less than 60 F and the engine runs at a very high RPM for a long time before the engine warms up.
Not sure but does an 83 have a cold start injector? If so maybe it or what ever triggers it (a 3sfe uses a cold start timer switch in conjunction with the cold start injector) may be stuck in the "on" position resulting in the excess gas to start cold or, possibly in your case, too much gas for warm conditions. I kind of think it might be the sensor since it sounds like after the engine heats up even more it quits running rich.
Just a guess...
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
Just a guess, you may have a coolant temp sensor stuck in the cold range causing the fuel system to run rich. May or may not set a code, since it is not open.
if problem takes longer then one second it would set a soft code[MIL light will be off but the code will be in memory].this early system has single digit code [not accurate explanation, as it has code 11, however the number of flashes is the same as code number-- for code 11 it should flash 11 times!! not just one-pause-one]
Try shorting the terminals at the connector for the coolant temp sensor, it should trick the ecu into thinking the engine is hot. Of cause ou will have to do this after the engine is warmed up, otherwise it won't stay running or even start.
Not 100% sure, but I believe the coolant temp sensor has a gray connector and it is located on the right end of the cylinder head where the coolant housing is located at when you are facing the engine. There should also be a green connector next to it, which is the cold start timer switch.
On a warm engine, you can just pull the cold start injector out of the intake, if it shows signs of fuel dripping, it is possible that it is leak or staying on. Block off the opening in the intake, start the engine, if everything is work like it is supposed to there shouldn't have any fuel coming out at all. BE CAREFUL THOUGH, FUEL MAY SPRAY IF IT IS STUCK ON! The cold start injector only works during cranking I believe, not when the engine is running, since it is powered by the cranks signal from the starter.
N.E.O.
Last edited by new echo owner; 08-29-2008 at 09:16 PM.
The coolant thermosensor has green connector [may get yellowish with age]; the cold start injector switch has brown connector.
the fuel system can be peressurized by jumping fuel pump test connector, the one that hangs down near the air flow meter and turning ignition on[no neeed to start the engine]
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