1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I'm not getting the MPG I should. Even driving 55-60 on the freeway, I still get a max of 28.7MPG 70% HWY and 30% CITY. I would like to average 30MPG.
I ran a can of seafoam through the car, put fuel injector cleaning in the gas, and put "RESTORE" in the engine oil to help increase compression. I also replaced the top oxygen sensor. The car feels like it has more power, but no better fuel mileage. I got 26.3MPG on my last tank, but I was doing 75MPG on the freeway, so that might explain the poor fuel mileage.
I have no idea when my grandfather last changed the fuel filter. I went to jiffy lube and they wanted $50 to replace it. That seems kind of expensive considering, the filter itself costs about $10.
How hard is it to replace? Are there any auto stores that would likely do this for less $?
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1989 White Gen 2. Auto Transmission. 159K. Best MPG = 39. Worst MPG 19.
get the line from underneath off first with a 19 and a 14 mm wrench and then get the banjo fitting off from up top with a socket and long extension, then loosten the 10mm pinch bolt and push it down and out, get back underneath and start the bottom line into the filter and then put it back into the holder and then tighten the line up, get back on top and put new copper rings on both sides of the banjo and loosly put it on and then tighten the pinch bolt, then tighten the banjo and p[ut the intake tube back on and start and look for leaks out of the bottom fitting, notice the 3 ribs fitting into the holder on the filter
I have a fuel filter on a '88 Camry that seem to be seized in place. Any good Ideas on how to tackle that problem. I called the Dealer and told them my problem with trying to replace the filter. They told me on a vehicle as old mine, they'd probably end up replace the fuel line too. I was told this is common when they are that old and probably the original equipment. “ which is my guess that it is the original filter”
152,000 miles on the old Camry
Thanks, Jon
I am not optimistic that a new fuel filter will improve your mileage. They hardly ever get clogged up unless you got a really bad tank of gas. That being said I would add one thing to fredk's procedure. Before you start open the gas cap to relieve any residual pressure in the system. Make sure that you use the right wrenches correctly. It is very easy to twist a fuel line if you don't support the junction correctly.
I am a much bigger fan of cleaning the EGR system, IAC valve, and throttle body manually rather than with chemicals (chemicals are OK periodically but don't seem to work well with really dirty items.
I am in the middle of replacing my air conditioning compressor. Since I knew I would be a while I got a "non-AC" alternator belt. My mileage has improved from 26 mpg to 30 mpg overnight. You might want to take off your alternator belt and spin the AC pulley to make sure that it is spinning freely when the AC is off.
Tire pressure???
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
got filter out of bracket, wrench on 19 mm side a and 14(same side/top), cant get filter off??? Hit it with PB blaster will try again tomorrow. grrrr.....
Sorry, I haven't been very regular lately. The EGR system, IAC and throttle body are all in the same area. The large air hose attaches to the air filter at one end and the throttle body at the other. Directly behind the throttle body is the EGR valve (connected to the throttle body and a vertical pipe), next the the EGR valve is the EGR modulator (and the vacuum hoses between can clog), the IAC is below the throttle body. You can do a little cleaning by squirting throttle body cleaner (make sure you use throttle body safe cleaner and O2 sensor safe cleaner. It should say so on the label.) Cleaning is straight forward but you may find hard chunks of carbon in the EGR that need to be delicately scraped out and the IAC has some delicate mechanisms in it so be gentle.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
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