Heater issues. - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Ironheadziggy76 · 10-20-2008, 10:24 AM

I have a 1990 Camry LE that is having issues with the heater. It has the electronic heat and air control panel. I have went so far as to disconnect the cable that controls the valve to the heater core and left it in the open position, so hot water is getting to the core. It will blow hot air for a short time and then go to cold. Coolant level is full, and to the best of my knowledge there is no air in the system. Is there some door in the heater box I need to be checking that would cause this? I am buying a 91 Camry DX this morning for a parts car that has the standard heat and air controls. Is it possible to convert this over to the 90 model if needed? I hate to just gut the part car, it's in really nice shape other than reverse not working in the transmission.

I would greatly appreciate any ideas you all could give the new guy on here. Winter is coming on the wife is REALLY starting to complain about having no heat.

Thanks,
Steve

GregElliott · 10-20-2008, 11:08 AM

I'm not too sure, I have a 91 base model 3sfe and it has the normal lever controls and the doors are directly connected to the controls by cables. I just replaced the heater core in my Camry and GOOD LUCK if you have to take the heater box out.. it was a major pain in the butt, plus you have to disconnect the a/c lines at the firewall so you will lose all your freon.
I know I'm not helping much. But I dunno what to tell you.
Doctor J could probably help you if he reads your post.

Ironheadziggy76 · 10-20-2008, 09:02 PM

Thanks Greg, I'm going to tear it down over the weekend. Hopefully I won't have to take out the heater box, I may just try to convert it to the cable controller if I can.

Doctor J · 10-21-2008, 01:04 PM

As far as I know, push-button controlled system for 90 Camry v-6 is using small gear motors that pulling the cables.
The most common complaint I used to hear is that the heater valve cannot be closed by servo-cable , reducing A/C efficiency here in CA.
With the heater valve fully open, the hot air should come from a/c outlets as long as blower runs.
Just make sure there is no interfernce between the disconnected lever and the end of the heater cable so it wont push the valve into closed position.
If possible disconnect both heater hoses attach long sections of garden hoses to its outlets and run the water trough the heater; if it flows fine, verify that the engine has thermostat installed and it is of proper type with 2 valves.

Ironheadziggy76 · 10-21-2008, 10:37 PM

Thanks Doctor J, I don't know if it matters, but mine has the 4cylinder engine. It still has the original thermostat and seems to be working fine. Drove the car today and the heat worked fine for about 10 minutes and then went cold. If you turn the fan off it tries to warm back up, but as soon as you turn the fan back on it will go to cold. With my luck it's probably going to be the electronic controller. I have yet to find one in all the salvage yards I have been to.

Doctor J · 10-22-2008, 09:03 AM

I still strongly beleiving it has something to do with coolant flow trough the heater rather then operation of heater control unit. Most commonly problems such as heater suck hot or cold or inability to direct the air flow are happening.

Ironheadziggy76 · 10-22-2008, 11:08 AM

I'll give it a flush before I tear out the dash.

It could probably stand a coolant change.

Ironheadziggy76 · 10-23-2008, 10:20 PM

I tore into the heater today and it seems to be bad news. I flushed the heater core and it was surprisingly clean for a car with 272,000 plus miles. I took out the bottom half of the dash on both driver and passenger side so I could watch the controls as the wife worked them. The vent position cable worked fine but when you slid the temperature controller back and forth it would start out working fine but then the cables that work the air vent damper and water valve would get "confused" and alternate back and forth when left in the hot position. If you held pressure on the button sometimes it would work so I'm guessing it needs a new controller. I checked with the local Toyota dealer and they can get one for $568.00! He then told me they have a salvage dealer in Omaha that they do a lot of business with that warranties their parts. $142.00 tax and shipping included, not good but a lot better. It comes in next week and I will let you know if it cures it.

es250nut · 10-27-2008, 10:29 AM

I'm kinda bummed I haven't been on the board lately, I could have possibly saved you that $142. :-(

Ironheadziggy76 · 10-30-2008, 06:26 PM

I got the controller yesterday and got it installed. That fixed the problem. I did get a little more discount on the unit as one of the button covers was missing when it came in. He dropped the price to $100.00 plus tax. I had to use one of the buttons off of my old unit that has the color worn off but I can live with that for $36.00!