Gen II Radiator Fluid Change - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Danger_SSOAU · 10-29-2008, 06:12 PM

Hey guys, simple question here.

I am wishing to replace the radiator fluid on my 88 manual with 3S-FE engine as I have had the car for over 2 years now and haven't replaced it as of yet. In the owner's manual, it says that there is a **** on the back of the engine that needs to be loosened when replacing the fluid "to avoid any dangerous air locks"

Is it vitally important that I loosen it to get the air out, and if so, where do I locate it, I can't seem to find it. The drawings in the manual aren't the clearest.

zppeacock · 10-29-2008, 07:39 PM

When I flushed my wagon I just drained the rad, filled with water ran for 15 min, drained then filled with 50/50.

Danger_SSOAU · 10-29-2008, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zppeacock

When I flushed my wagon I just drained the rad, filled with water ran for 15 min

Do you mean ran the water for 15 minutes or ran the engine for 15 min?

Jimnist · 10-29-2008, 10:29 PM

I'm guessing he meant ran the engine for 15 mins.

Danger_SSOAU · 10-30-2008, 11:19 PM

Changed the fluid yesterday, the old fluid was definitely overdue for a change as it was smelling a bit stale! Got it all done very easily with the advice given. Thanks guys.

Jimnist · 10-31-2008, 12:23 AM

So did you find and remove the ****? :P Or just do as peacock said and drain and flush?

Danger_SSOAU · 10-31-2008, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimnist

So did you find and remove the ****? :P Or just do as peacock said and drain and flush?

Ha man, a **** is a plumbing term, not entirely sure what it is though....

Yeah, I drained the fluid, which went everywhere but the bucket because the cross member was in the way. I also pulled the resivour off in front of the batter and drained that. Filled it up with a bucket of tap water, I only ran it for 5 minutes until the needle raised a little off Cold. Drained and filled with distilled water and a corrosive inhibitor additive.

It seems to be running better, but i'm not sure how it would bear any relevance to the way it runs. Maybe it's just in my head.

malayan · 10-31-2008, 04:18 AM

I usually just replace the fluid with 100% antifreeze.

Sometime if you drain the sytem. fill and flush you risk the chance of your water pump water seal failing. (old mechanics trick ).
I am told the pump seal is used to having the thick fluid in it and if you flush it out and put thin 50 / 50 in it the seal can begin to leak and WAH LAH YOU NEED A NEW WATER PUMP.

If you do that you might as welll do a T Belt too.
This can be worse if you spend a lot of time flushing it out as well.

I have good results by just draing it then fill (with the heat temp towards hot). After you put the cap on keep the resivoir full with straight antifreeze. Check the fluid in the radiator after it cools.

Danger_SSOAU · 10-31-2008, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by malayan

I am told the pump seal is used to having the thick fluid in it and if you flush it out and put thin 50 / 50 in it the seal can begin to leak and WAH LAH YOU NEED A NEW WATER PUMP.
If you do that you might as welll do a T Belt too.
This can be worse if you spend a lot of time flushing it out as well.

Hey man, thanks for your advice.

I'm certain that the coolant that was in there beforehand was a 50/50 mixture, so hopefully the water pump doesn't begin leaking...

The Timing Belt drives the water pump also does it not? I would hope that I wouldn't have to get it replaced as I got the Timing Belt changed 12 months ago and it would be just a massive pain to the wallet to get it taken apart again, this being because I don't have the confidence to be taking the timing cover off and stuffing around in there.

Jimnist · 10-31-2008, 11:22 PM

Yes, the timing belt powers the water pump, oil pump and idler pulley. So if they need to replace the water pump, they would need to take the timing belt off and work in that area. Do it if it needs doing soon, but you just said that you got ur belt job done last year, so there's no need to. It's recommended to change it every 5 years or 100 000kms. Changing it again would just be a waste of money. Edit: It's really not that hard to do if you have a service manual, the right tools and if you're mechanically minded. But, i think you would need to take the engine out to replace the waterpump, don't think there is enough working space to get the pump off while still in the bay.