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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-01-2008, 09:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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87 Camry oil leak?

No smoking exhaust, 98K orig. dont see but a few drops but looks like 1 qt every 900 miles? weird, must be blowing on the frame, thinkin from rear of motor - any usual leak spots? runs great. Havent had a real good long look underneath except at muffler shop - saw some tell tale drips in that area. But what else could be consumption problem> PCV? Thanks..
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Old 11-01-2008, 10:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hfca View Post
No smoking exhaust, 98K orig. dont see but a few drops but looks like 1 qt every 900 miles? weird, must be blowing on the frame, thinkin from rear of motor - any usual leak spots? runs great. Havent had a real good long look underneath except at muffler shop - saw some tell tale drips in that area. But what else could be consumption problem> PCV? Thanks..
Maybe your using the wrong oil for your area? What are you using and what brand?

Also, are you seeing spots on your rear bumper? If you were loosing a qt, it would end up spraying on the bumper as the wind sweeps it up from under the car.
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Old 11-02-2008, 05:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hmm....I think we've got the same problem here. I've got oil all over the rear of my engine (firewall side). When i was underneath, i saw oil stains on the intake manifold and huge amounts of oil that has gunked up overtime. I'd look at the PCV valve first and take the manifold off just to be sure.

If it is due to the PCV, then the quick fix would be to get a oil catch can available from most auto accessories store. But, i've been told that this will happen due to compression leaking past the rings. Could a clogged/faulty PCV valve cause this?
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Old 11-02-2008, 12:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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valve cover gasket, oil pump, distributor seals, output shaft seals on trans, cam and crank seals, the bat shaped ) ring is famous for getting a crack in it and pouring going down the road, it is under the oil pump cover that is driven by the timing belt and get the oil pan off and pull the entire oil pump off the front of the motor and reseal it along with the rest of the seals around a new timing belt
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Old 11-03-2008, 09:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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2nd Generation How to find oil leak

I put my 90 camry 119k on my ramps and set the brake aand shoed the tires. I let it run at idle for 30 min.I placed some news paper underneath and let the car idle?
Do that and check to see were it is coming from. I found 4 spots all the way across the bottom (basically coming from everywhere under motor only) I then turned off the car and got a reallybright shop light and crawled under so I could look up on the firewall side of the car.

I Changed the oil and used 20W50. drove it for 100 miles.
Checked the PVC...good

After wiping off all the wet oil I let it run again and then looked again.
I saw it wet again up by the intake and also from the drivers side of engine but a little lower under ditributor area.

I replaced the Valve cover gasket and pulled out the distributor and cleaned and sealed it. ]THIS FIXED OVER 80% OF THE LEAK.
drove for 100 miles.

I have confirmed that the distributor and valve cover are nice and dry now!


I then started over and found a leak on the passenger side of engine dripping down from the front above the oil pan.. i got my light and towel again and found that the OIL PUMP housing was seeping tiny oil drip. It would run down the engine over and down the oil pan and onto the ground.

Last but not least I saw a very very small accumulation on the bellhousing. Worried that it was a rear main seal (between engine and tranny) I did my towel and inspect trick again while car was idle ( BE CAREFUL YOU COULD KILL YOURSELF IF YOU GET CAUGHT IN MOVING ENGINE PARTS). I noticed that after I would dry it off I saw seepage coming from up above and sliding down the belhousing side. I was relieved but couldn't see where it was coming from. (defitely oil .....not trans fluid) .

So today I am going to replace the oil pump seal (along with tbelt and water pump because I would be stupid not since it has to come off to get to the oil pump). And also put an oil pan gasket on it in case that is where the no find leak is coming from.
Keep you posted on what I find.

Now.."where they heck did I put my wheel puller"


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Old 11-03-2008, 10:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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OK Here Goes ...Pics

Ok I found the leaks as I replaced the
TIMING BELT
WATER PUMP
OIL PUMP SEAL
FRONT CRANK SEAL
Check out the pics guys..
Learning Microsoft paint ..h ehe

























OK Time to clean surfaces and install Gaskets w sealant.

COULDN'T BELIEVE THAT THIS HAD NO OIL PAN GASKET ..Just Sealant
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Old 11-04-2008, 09:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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you dont need to hold the motor up, it cant fall out
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Old 11-04-2008, 12:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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2nd Generation Hey Fred!

I think you would change your mind if I told you that
"BOTH CROSSMEMBERS BELOW ARE REMOVED"

I am in the process of replacing the oil pan too.

I did show the oil pan removed right? See?

Engine Needs to be supported when ALL the crossmembers below are removed to access the oil pan & Oil Pump!
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Old 11-04-2008, 03:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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your right, my boo-boo, i usually just slip the timing belt end mount back in to hold it up, do the pan and pump, put the twist mounts back in, take the hanger mount back out and do the belt work, but thats just my way, be real careful with the oil pump o-ring and be sure to change that tiny shaft seal because they pour if they get a crack in them, ya might pop a couple caps and eyeball a bearing or 2
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Old 11-04-2008, 09:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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oil Pump

You mean this one..Yep Got It/.....


Then I finished the job....














Then I installed Oil Pan and remaining parts in reverse order.



DRY AS A BONE!


No Leaks.....
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Old 11-05-2008, 10:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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job well done
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