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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-03-2008, 09:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Power Window Help

I gots a problem. When I first got the car I rolled all the windows down. They all rolled down except the drivers rear. Being the noob I was I tried the rear switch bam it went down. But it didnt go up. I manually got it up.

Now 5 months later im trobleshooting it. I got a new masterswitch out of a working car. That didnt solve the problem but now my switches light up.

From the masterswitch I get NO Voltage to the rear motor. At the rear switch I get 12volts in the down position. Hense why the window gos down. But in the up position I get .02 volts.

Any input?
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Old 11-03-2008, 09:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Check for broken wire at the driver's door wiring harness.

N.E.O.
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Old 11-03-2008, 10:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Switch

Last time I found one like that I swapped the Rear Door Switch and never had a prob again.
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Old 11-04-2008, 06:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new echo owner View Post
Check for broken wire at the driver's door wiring harness.

N.E.O.
I have checked the wiring from the rear door up to the connector by the seat belt. And in the front door untill I lose it in the plastic covering.

Quote:
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Last time I found one like that I swapped the Rear Door Switch and never had a prob again.
I have tried the switch from the other rear door and it does the same thing.

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Old 11-04-2008, 07:09 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The wiring I am referring to is the part that goes from the door to the body of the car. If you open the door, look between the door and the body for the rubber conduit. You will need to take the left kick panel off to get to the connector for the harness that goes into the door. Disconnect it and tuck on the wiring that goes into the door one at a time to see if there is one that is loose.

N.E.O.

Last edited by new echo owner; 11-04-2008 at 07:10 AM.
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Old 11-04-2008, 11:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I checked that allready. Everything is inplace and connected.
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Old 11-04-2008, 11:22 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Check the wires or check the connector?

N.E.O.
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Old 11-04-2008, 11:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Refer to EWD90 pdf file, pages 102-103 from www.camrystuff.com gen 2
With the ignition OFF,
Unplug the Left Rear window switch.
Using Ohmmeter, check for continuity between the ground and RED/Black wire and ground and Green/Black wire.
If there is no continuity,
With the power OFF unplug master switch
Check for continuity between the GREEN/yellow wire from the master switch [cavity 10] to the green /black wire of the Left rear switch terminal;
Check for continuity between red/yellow wire at the master switch [cavity 9] and red/black wire on the Left Rear switch terminal.
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Old 11-04-2008, 07:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor J View Post
Refer to EWD90 pdf file, pages 102-103 from www.camrystuff.com gen 2
With the ignition OFF,
Unplug the Left Rear window switch.
Using Ohmmeter, check for continuity between the ground and RED/Black wire and ground and Green/Black wire.
If there is no continuity,
With the power OFF unplug master switch
Check for continuity between the GREEN/yellow wire from the master switch [cavity 10] to the green /black wire of the Left rear switch terminal;
Check for continuity between red/yellow wire at the master switch [cavity 9] and red/black wire on the Left Rear switch terminal.
Ok just got back from fixing it. the GREEN/YELLOW at the master switch and the RED/YELLOW at the master switch were broken someplace between the switch and the connector by the power seat belt.

I ran 2 new wires to the connector and Rewired and soldered them in. I hide the new wires where the stock ones went but I couldn't get them threw the rubber boot but I found another hole in the door to run them threw. Pluged the connecters back in and bam had a drivers rear window!

Im thinking that the wires broke in that rubber boot from opening and closing the door for 18 years.
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Old 11-04-2008, 09:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Didn't you say you check it already? It is one of the most common problem with the Toyota vehicles, broken wires inside conduit between door/body, trunk hinge/body.

Anyway, glad to hear that you have it working.

N.E.O.
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Old 11-05-2008, 08:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I did do what you said in the previous post but none of them was lose. When I ohm'd them (thanks doctor) I found out that they were broken or worn threw someplace between the bottom of the door and where it connects at the kickpanel.
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I can understand, because you do have to tuck on the wire with a little force to find out which one is broken since they are all bundled tightly together. Anyway, you go it working that is what counts.

N.E.O.
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Old 11-06-2008, 10:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If at some point you want to get the wires through the boot between the body and door you can do it using a thin metal strip to push through. Make sure that you smooth the edges off so you aren't likely to tear the boot and then insert it from one end. Put your hand on the outside of the boot and feel its progress. When it gets stuck (often) use your hand to flex it back into the passage. I used the wire strip that reinforces my wiper blade, it worked great. Bend the end of the strip in half and wrap the end of the wire into the loop. It's a tight fit but I got two more wires into it. You might consider removing the wires that you are replacing.

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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!

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