Removing lock cylinder housing (ignition)

[Jimnist]

To begin with, it's not what it sounds like.

I'm swapping my steering column assembly so that i can fit power steering to my car (as some of you may already know XD). Anyways, i've already got the coulmn assembly out of car. My problem lies in removing the ignition itself. It's screwed in by a stud. So i was thinking of cutting a slit on the top so i can get it out with a screwdriver. Went to check the manual and it confirmed this.

So how do i cut a slit into it? I was thinking a dremel, but i don't have one. All i have is a grinder, and i don't think i'll be able to do it without cutting into the ignition itself. So what are my other options? Or is the dremel the only way?

Cheers.

[toyomoho]

Typically the bolts bolts used to hold the unit are double headed. When the bolt is installed the driven head snaps off leaving only what you see. You can drill the head that you see off. Take a drill slightly larger then the bolt diameter and drill into the head. The head will then pop off.

If you can cut a slot this will also work.

[Jimnist]

Well, i couldn't be bothered to think of anything else so i went out and bought a rotary tool.

And Toyo, i don't see how drilling the head would do much. It's a stud (pretty much a threaded rod), so there's not much (if any) 'head' holding it down like a traditional bolt. I don't see how i can drill it out without damaging the thread on the lock housing. But thanks for your input

[new echo owner]

I think what toyomoho meant is that when the head of the snap-off bolts are gone the bracket that holds the lock cylinder housing will come off, then you can remove the remaining part of the bolts. You won't be drilling down to the threaded part of the housing. If you had seen one of those snap-off bolts, you will understand why.

N.E.O.

[malayan]

I have done this three times now...

I used a small chisel and pounded a slot in it and then sprayed some penetrant on the threaded part.
Then I clamped it, this relieves most presure of the bolt.

Use the chisel to turn it just a little. then..
It easily unscrews with small standard screwdriver.

I have even drilled the stud top off and still had a half inch left before the threads and unscrewed what was left "by hand"

Good Luck!

[Jimnist]

It's a shame my internet went out before i went to remove them and AFTER seeing everyone's wonderful suggestions

Well, becuase i suck using a small rotary tool (and i forgot to bring it to school - my car is a school project) and i snapped the small cutting disc while slightly butchering the top of it, i ditched that idea. My teacher suggested just using a hammer and punch and impacting it on a tangent to rotate it out. That worked well. Got both of them out.

I now understand what you're saying about drilling it out now after inspection upon removal. It was kinda like a bolt with a head, holding it down at a shoulder. So i could've drilled it out, lifted apart and then spun the rest out with my fingers.

What did you replace it with? A torx bit bolt? Or just a normal bolt or allen head?

[new echo owner]

The type of bolts to put back in is entirely up to you. You can get the same type from a dealer if you want to, but won't be cheap. Can't use hex head bolts, no room. That leaves Torx or Allen head. The original bolts are designed to be difficult to remove, as you had found out, so you won't have to worry about the car being stolen too easily; on the other hand, who would have know that you put different type of bolts back in.

N.E.O.

[malayan]

Use Threadlock and a normal allen head or standard screw as I did but I also drilled out the head just enough to stop a thief.

If it needed to come off again they would have to drill it off.

[Jimnist]

Thanks for your help, guys.

I already put it all together. I used an allen head and left it as it is. My reason being:

1) The chances of them finding out/knowing is next to nothing
2) If they did know, it means they're already inside my car and have got the tools and knowledge to steal it; regardless of the ignition.

[caferitz]

To ALL !

This was all very helpful!

I am by no means a mechanic! And my brother who is (shade tree) has been helping with suggestions, but neither of us had any knowledge of my Toyota. This has all been very helpful!

I do have a question if anyone has the time...

I have a 1993 T-100:

My ignition lock cylinder has jammed. I was getting worse and worse and finally locked up.
I researched how to remove it (put the key in ACC position and punch the release button from the underside with a paperclip - comes right out).

I could then start the truck with a pair of needle-nose plyers, reaching into the Cylinder-Housing. But the steering column was locked. At that time, I did not know enough to reach down and release the steering column with a button at the back of the Cylinder-Housing.) And I think, that it would have only worded until I turned the wheel far enough and it may have locked again.

Anyway...after searching long and hard, I found a Salvage yard with a replacement Housing and Cylinder ($65 plus shipping). That beats the heck out of Toyota's $137 for just the Lock Cylinder!

Toyota tells me that only a 1993 Housing and Cylinder can be replaced with another 1993 Housing and Cylinder - Year and Model specific.

The Salvage yard guy tells me from his book that they were interchangeable from 1992-1987(I think he said 1987).

I ask another Salvage yard and they confirm the same.

So, I sent off for the unit! Good news. The Cylinder fits into my truck's Housing just fine. My steering column is still locked, but I can start my truck! So, I am glad I got the new salvaged housing, and I will replace that too.

The part that they shipped me is labeled a 1997, but since the Cylinder fits my Truck's Housing, I think I am good-to-go! The markings from the Salvage yard could easily be mislabeled.

The part I received, of course, does not have any electronics/wiring with it. I am hoping !!! that when I get the electrical wires unplugged from the back of my old Housing, that they will fit into the new salvaged housing.

There is simply a flat piston on the back of the Housing.

IS THAT ALL THAT CONNECTS INTO THE ELECTRICAL PLUG?

As far as removing the bolts from the old housing, still on the steering column, I am going to try and use a hammer and spike (of some sort) to nudge the bolts until they come loose. (That is what the salvage yard did to the one they sent me.)

If that does not work I am going to try the chisel to create a slot for a screw driver as mentioned above. And if that fails, I will try to drill it out!

Anyway, I am hopeful that this will all work, and I am spending the day, tomorrow, if necessary, doing it.

(the salvage-yard item has the screws in it so I am able to see that it still has quite a bit of head on the screw.)

Thank you Everyone for your help.

If you have any comments or suggestions, PLEASE do respond. I need all the help I can get!

CafeRitz