Okay, seeing as i've done this myself and realised how crappy the service manual was in the picture department, I thought i might share my conversion with everyone on here at TN.
So, i'm converting a 'manual' rack and pinion steering system to power assisted rack and pinion steering system a.k.a power steering. You can also skip some steps and use it as a guide when you need to remove or replace the steering rack.
First, we loosen but not remove the wheel lug buts. Then we raise the car with a jack and support with side/chassis stands (ithis isn't my car, nor even a Camry, but i didn't consider taking a pic since it's so easy).
Then we take the nuts and wheels off. With the wheel off, you can see the tie rod end attached to the steering arm. You need to take off the split pin on which is through the tie rod end and calestated nut. Loosen the nut, but DO NOT REMOVE again. You'll see why next. Some people talk about using a SST (special service tool) to remove the tie rod ends, PFFFFT! That's just a waste of money. Get youself a hammer (preferably a big one, but don't go overboard) and strike the steering arm with the hammer, close to the tie rod hole. Striking it temporarily distorts the tapered fit for the tie rod end, 'popping' it out. This is what it looks like after all this (note, i have already taken the nut off and put the tie rod off to the side.
After this is done, move onto removing the splash covers underneath the car. There are 2 underneath, and then one on each side of the tyre well. Don't have any pics as it's pretty simple.
Now would be a good time to undo the universal joint pinch bolts. There are two and i don't remember the bolt size, but i think it's a 12mm head. The other is on the pinion. It's best to have a friend in the car, so you can tell them to rotate the wheel so the uni joint is in a nice position. They need to hold it as well whe you're undoing it. You can attack from either underneath or from the top(engine bay), but top requires a lot of extenion bars. To remove the uni joint, slide it back up the stering shaft to free the other side from the pinion. Once free, aim pinion side anywhere but back where it came from and slide the joint back down shaft, freeing the sucka!
Okay, don't have a pic of the rack in the car, but then again, you don't really need one. There are in total, 2x17mm nuts and 2x17mm bolts holding the rack to the bulkhead. I used a breaker bar(to make it easier, but i could've used the rachet), maybe 1ft to get the bolts off. However, with the nuts, i used a ring spanner becuase the socket wasn't deep enough to reach due to the stud the nut screws onto, you'll see what i mean. But if you have a deep socket set, lucky you! Ohh..i should add, if you're doing the conversion, disconnect the exhuast from manifold (drop it as well from 'overhead' mountings' and remove the crossmember; it will make it a lot easier and give you more working space. I just remembered that a breather hose from the charcoal canister sits in the crossmember, you can just pull it out.
With exhaust disconnected from manifold, it's able to drop a few cm. I held it in place with an occy strap in the engine bay.
Exhuast removed from 'overhead' mountings. I just pryed it off the rubber things with a screwdriver. Can you see it? It's at the top, just before the cat. It's held in by 2 rods on the exhaust.
When viewed from the front of the car (LHS), most prob ur passenger side for US, but my driver. The mountings. That's the stud at the top. A deep socket will fit over it but not a normal socket. In case you were wondering, those are the transaxle shift cables. they WILL NOT interfrere with the converion. I initally did nad had to find out the hard way, but removing it, only to find the rack will fit with it there.
RHS from the front again (US drivers side) or my passenger side. If you're doing the conversion, this will apply to you. As you can see, there is an adaptor plate for the 'manual' rack.
Plate removed and how it will look if you already have a p/s rack.
Yay! You're half way there. I removed the rack through the side cutouts. BUT for power steering, i'm not so sure. I couldn't get it in through the side cutouts as the pinion on the p/s rack was much longer. This is where taking the crossmember an exhuast jobbie came in handy. I was able to slide the p/s rack into place through one of the holes underneath the car.
Okay, if you've gone this far, CONGRATS AND GIVE YOURSELF A PAT ON THE BACK. Getting this far also it means you should be sweet putting the rest back together, it's basically the reversal. While the rack is out, check the condition of the steering rack rubber mountings, if they're loose, replace them. If you're doing the converion read on.....of couse, get the rack in by yourself and torque it down. But don't connect the universal joint as you're going to have to replace the steering shaft, if you did try, you'll know why you need to replace it (manual steering shaft (ss) is too short).
So you still have to change ss's over, install pump and reservoir and route the hoses. I'll leave it here at the moment because i don't have the pics right now. But i WILL update soon and if you need any help in the meantime, just send me a PM.
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