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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 12-28-2008, 07:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3SFE Teartown/Rebuild

A few weeks ago I posted on here asking about the loss of cylinder compression. Turns out it's a burnt exhaust valve. The motor had a few other problems that I'm fixing in the process too.

One is a leaking oil pump seal/gasket. What do I need to rebuild one of these? Do they sell rebuild kits?

While I have the timing apart, would it be worth it to change out the water pump, the one in mine looks original.

Autozone sells two head gasket kits. One for $111, the other for $208. Anyone familiar with these sets? Is one better than the other, or should I buy somewhere else?

Anything else that I should know for the reassembly process? I have a Very detailed service manual which is a major help.


Thanks!
Jeremy
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Old 12-28-2008, 07:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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definitely change the water pump along with the idler pulley and tensioner pulley w/new spring.

I dunno how good they are but you can get a complete engine gasket set on ebay for a great price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=370128627835

Last edited by GregElliott; 12-28-2008 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 12-28-2008, 10:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lionheart03 View Post
A few weeks ago I posted on here asking about the loss of cylinder compression. Turns out it's a burnt exhaust valve. The motor had a few other problems that I'm fixing in the process too.

One is a leaking oil pump seal/gasket. What do I need to rebuild one of these? Do they sell rebuild kits?

While I have the timing apart, would it be worth it to change out the water pump, the one in mine looks original.

Autozone sells two head gasket kits. One for $111, the other for $208. Anyone familiar with these sets? Is one better than the other, or should I buy somewhere else?

Anything else that I should know for the reassembly process? I have a Very detailed service manual which is a major help.


Thanks!
Jeremy
Well, you could either replace the entire oil pump or just replace the seal. Get it out and take it to your local bearing and seal shop; they will be able to match it.

When you take it apart, how does that waterpump look? Is there a lot of corrosion or build-up on it? That's how i would judge if it needs replacing, but i could be wrong.

If you're going to tear it down, may as well get that full gasket kit which includes valve stem seals and such. Clean all the valves free from carbon and 'grind the valves' - grinding paste on valve sealing surface with valve seat. Cleans carbon off and gives it a better seal .
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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For best results:
if the head gasket surface only needs cleaning [no warpage or corrosion] get OEM head gasket only; all other gaskets are not important.
get new head bolts.
p.s. my very first guess about burned out valve was right.

Last edited by Doctor J; 12-29-2008 at 08:39 AM.
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Old 12-29-2008, 11:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Sorry, was thinking burnt valve, ment to type BROKEN valve. I'll post a pic too. Rounding up parts today, and taking the head to a machine shop. I'll keep everyone posted on how this job turns out.

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Old 12-29-2008, 11:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Hmmm. On my car it probably has a nick on the edge which is nothing compared to what you are having.
Make sure that the head is gonna be milled not belt sanded!!!!!

Last edited by Doctor J; 12-29-2008 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 12-29-2008, 01:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The heads at a machine shop right now being worked on. Getting the entire thing redone. Gonna cost about $325, but it will be worth it if I never have to tear this motor down again!
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Old 12-29-2008, 01:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ewww thats nasty. lol
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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How did that happen?!?!? A better question would be 'where did that bit of valve go?!?'. You're lucky it didn't stay in the combustion chamber, killing the combustion chamber.
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Old 12-29-2008, 09:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My '74 MGB burned a valve last spring. It looked similar to the damage on yours. My theory is a piece of carbon got stuck between the valve and seat causing a hot spot. The backside of my valve looked like a cutting torch had melted away the chunk of valve. I don't believe a piece of valve material is released, it's actually burned away.

Last edited by PaulPR; 12-29-2008 at 09:47 PM. Reason: Attempted to add picture
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Old 12-29-2008, 09:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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My theory is a piece of carbon got stuck between the valve and seat causing a hot spot. The backside of my valve looked like a cutting torch had melted away the chunk of valve. I don't believe a piece of valve material is released, it's actually burned away.
Sounds like a good theory.
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Old 12-29-2008, 11:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Whoa!! How the hell did this happen ?
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Old 12-29-2008, 11:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'd like to know what caused this too! It went out while doing 70 on the interstate one morn, at 170K.
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Old 12-30-2008, 12:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
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oiling problem ? cooling problem ? what happen did it just start slowing down on the interstate when it blew ?
any loud clacking noises ?
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Old 12-30-2008, 08:44 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Everything was running great when she went out. When it went out, I started noticing a bad miss while driving it. When I came to a stop, thats when I realized that I had lost a whole cylinder. This car wasn't running too bad on only three cylinders!
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