1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
84 Camry Check Connectors/Service Connectors - Diagnosing Fuel Problem
I am seriously a matter of minutes from taking a hammer to this POS. A little background.
I have an '84 beater Camry which is my main mode of transportation while working fulltime and going to school full time. The car didn't pass emissions and ended up sitting for about two months. Up until this time the car started and ran fine minus a loss of power if I floored it on the free way (it would get slower and slower regardless of RPMs; tranny is probably going).
Anyways, moved to an address that doesn't require DEQ so I got new tags for the car. Went to the car and tried to start it. Let it crank for a good five minutes. Nothing. Injected starter fluid and she ran then died. So long as I kept injecting starter fluid, the car would run.
So I have air and spark, but its not getting its own fuel.
Removed the filter and now I am at the point of trying to Dx the fuel pump's state before going through the pain in the ass of dropping the tank since on 84's, the only piece accessable through the rearseat panel is the sending unit (WTF Toyota!?).
I have a Chilton's manual and it (along with most of the internet) keeps talking about jumping the FP and B+ pins on the Check Connector. The thing is, there is no pretty little box full of pins to jump; I have a handful of round yellow plugs, some with caps and some connected to various things. The internet has failed to produce an image or a viable description as to which of these is my FP/B+ service connector.
What has me really addled is that this car ran adequately before being parked, but after sitting for a bit, it's suddenly an immobile piece of junk instead of a mobile one. Also, if anyone has a PDF manual for this car that would be excellent; the Chilton I have is useless.
I am positive on that your car doesn't have the check connector that was referred. The fuel pump check connector is a single wire connector that much I am sure off; however, cannot remember where it is located at on a '84. If you know where the connectors are, and if you can locate the one with the single wire, connect a test light to it, it the Circuit Opening relay is working, it should light up the test light when cranking.
look for yellow plastic cylinder 1.5 inch long 5/8 inches diameter with black cup hanging down from air flow meter. take the cup off and put jumper in there[one wire to this "cylinder" is blue other is wht/blk tracer]
also the pump on this car is external; make sure it is getting power on the blue wire at the pump while cranking.the w/b wire from the PUMP goes to the ground ohm it out
also the pump on this car is external; make sure it is getting power on the blue wire at the pump while cranking.the w/b wire from the PUMP goes to the ground ohm it out
Hi Doc, thank you for the info. I looked under the hood for the Blue + White/Blk wire and the closest I found was a three-wire plug that looks like it's connected to a heatsink'd ballast. I took some pictures and labeled what I'm looking at coming off of the intake:
I'm going to try and find where the fuel pump is situated and see if there's another filter besides the one I removed from the engine bay that may have clogged up while sitting parked for those couple months.
Also, when you say to ohm it out, what range am I looking for? I'll take a look through the Chilton as well and see if they included it in there. And I'm going to ohm the pump itself... what... across the terminals? This is the first vehicle I've dealt with that's fuel injected and electronic pumps; my knowledge pool is all around analog hotrods (carbs and mech. pumps). So I really do appreciate the help.
The pump bypass plug is a socket only having no opposite connector with it and appears to have 2 wires. There is another socket having 1 wire used for engine diagnostic.
Both plugs appear next to each other and the large engine intake hose.
Use an ohm meter to check the ground wire to the pump, the ohm meter will indicate O ohms when connected between the ground wire and the cars chassis.
When jumping the socket for the pump the ign switch must in the ON position.
Green and brown wires! #3 connector Per EWD 1983 federal.
So I jumped plug #3 and put the car into the ON position. I heard a relay or two click inside the cab like always but when I went to check to see if any fuel was coming, the level in the pipe (which originally went to the engine bay filter) didn't even move.
(40 minutes passed)
Okay, got my volt meter and metered the #3 plug. I'm getting 11.98 volts across the gap which is the same as the battery. You mentioned the pump was external so I crawled under there and found something to the rear of the tank. It's caked with dirt which I've been working off but I do think I feel some wires connecting to it. I thought I'd take some pictures and see what you think before I go through and start removing pieces. It has a soft line coming in on one side and a hard line coming out the other side. It's situated between the rear of the tank and the front of the spare tire well and it's about six or seven inches in length.
Okay. Removed that mystery item from behind the tank. I can only imagine that it's the fuel pump because I don't know what else it would possibly be. I am so infinitely happy that it's external and that my Chilton manual is a piece of shit.
I jumped the #3 plug and tested voltage at the rear connector the pump was connected to and I have voltage all the way to the back of the car.
I went so far as to connect this thing directly to the battery and absolutely nothing at all. Unless there is something else I should try first, I'm considering this pump as seized and due for junking.
Should this spin up when connected directly to a 12v source?
It is an inline pump, the fuel goes in one side and out the other. Thus it appears this is the pump.
If so, try hitting it with a hammer, gently. On some inline pumps this can get them started.
I'll go tap on it with a hammer, but I'm thinking I should just replace it as I just spoke with the guy who's family owned the car before me and in the 10 years he remembers driving the car (plus the two years I've had it; 12 total years) he's never replaced the fuel pump, and he's not sure if his folks ever had it replaced. But I'll give it a tap and see what it does. Where's the best place to buy replacements? I'll also need a new filter since I have that off as well. Cost Less? Schuck's? I'm going to avoid the dealership as they'll want a part of my soul in the cost.
Addendum: I tapped it with a hammer a couple times and connected it to the battery and it started spinning. I'm not sure how it should sound and it's only partially filled with fuel, but it sort of sounds like an aquarium pump. So ya, it sitting there those couple of months got it sticking.
One new pump, a new filter, and she purrs right along. I was trying to figure out why I had a check engine light on and if I revved her she'd die; then I checked in the bay and found that I'd forgotten to reconnect the MAF. After that, revs and idles just fine. Still smokes like a monster (428+k miles on original engine), but she's smooth. Thank you everyone for your help.
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84 Camry Check Connectors/Service Connectors - Diagnosing Fuel Problem
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