1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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91 Camry New Battery/New Alternator but still won't run
Need help trying to figure out a problem with my 91 Camry. Car would occasionally feel like it was going to stall during idle at stop lights, etc, but never stalled. It just hesitated upon acceleration. Last week, the car wouldn't start. Jumped it (battery is only about 3 months old), let it run for about 20 minutes then went for a drive around the neighborhood to charge up. However, it stalled at an intersection and wouldn't start. I just put a new alternator on it today after someone told me that was probably the issue considering the previously-mentioned hesitation and stall-out. Jumped and let it sit running for about 20 minutes. Turned it off and tried to start it again and now it won't turn over.
I took the old alternator in to have it tested and it passed with flying colors (and then my wife asked why I didn't do that in the first place..thank you). The guy at Autozone told me it might be the fusable links so I bought an 80 and a 40. However, checking those just now and the ones on the car look fine (the metal is intact, not broken like a blown fuse would be). Now what? Any help would really be appreciated. I'm not mechanical at all so I was really excited that I was able to put the new alternator on, but not happy that I still don't have a working car.
have you checked all the connectors may be clean them up a bit?? change out the battery terminals?? that's all i can think of if your battery is new and alternator is good.. check the + connector/wire from the alternator to the battery... also get a mutlimeter check the battery's voltage with the car on/off and tell us what it is
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Quantum mechanics - the dreams that stuff is made of.
Better be careful or you may like doing this kind of stuff Seriously, it isn't clear if you have a car starting problem or a non-battery-charging problem. It would help the people on the forum to help if you could clarify that. Has the car failed to start when jumped with a known good battery from another car? When you tried to start it the last time mentioned (Turned it off and tried to start it again and now it won't turn over) did the starter run at all (rarnh, rarnh, rarnh sound from the starter indicating the starter is cranking the engine) or did it just click or not make any sound at all? Has the battery failed to charge up or to hold a charge? If the battery is charging it should be about 12 volts with the car off.
If the starter cranks (rarnh sound) and keeps cranking for 30 seconds or so, and the car doesn't start, it appears the problem is not the battery or the starter itself but a problem with the fuel pump or ignition (plugs etc). If the battery is charged up and the starter doesn't even crank, there is some kind of electrical problem with the key switch or something like that. If the battery doesn't charge or won't keep a charge, there could be a problem with the alternator or possibly a slow electrical leakage. However, you have replaced both the battery and the alternator, so it appears neither of them is the problem. The original stalling problem could be something totally different like an idle adjustment.
Some additional diagnosis is needed before replacing other parts. By the way, I have the same Camry and it has been a great car, well worth fixing.
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91 Camry auto with 150000+ mi-best car ever
98 Tacoma ex cab 5 spd 1.7 liter with 85000 mi-new
98 Volvo V70 AWD with 140000 mi
Specialized Allez Elite
Thanks atobe and holler1. When I jump the battery, the car starts immediately just like it should normally. It then runs just fine while I let it sit running/recharging. However, when I turn it off after 15-20 minutes of running and try restarting it...nothing. Just very faint clickclicklick. It's like it's not even trying to turn over. However, the lights will still turn on as well as the radio. It's always started just fine, even on the very cold days. I've had the car about 7 months and this is the only problem I've had.
I'll see if I can find someone with a multimeter to take some readings to post. I'm afraid to drive it to the autoparts store to use theirs for fear it'll stall and leave me stranded again.
One quick question. When trying to start after 20 min running, have you tried it with a jump battery or just the battery in the car? If it doesn't turn over with a known good battery, that indicates a problem with the starting system rather than the battery and charging system.
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91 Camry auto with 150000+ mi-best car ever
98 Tacoma ex cab 5 spd 1.7 liter with 85000 mi-new
98 Volvo V70 AWD with 140000 mi
Specialized Allez Elite
Here is another thread in this forum that might or might not help. There are apparently some fairly common occurrences of "no crank" which is what this "clicking" problem is called. no start/click...cold engine??
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91 Camry auto with 150000+ mi-best car ever
98 Tacoma ex cab 5 spd 1.7 liter with 85000 mi-new
98 Volvo V70 AWD with 140000 mi
Specialized Allez Elite
I've only tried it with the battery in the car. Although I just had it installed a couple of months ago, I suppose there's a chance it's a dud. Maybe what I'll do is take it out and have it tested to eliminate that possibility. If it turns out to be bad, it's still under guarantee and I'll take it back and get a new one. It'd be great if it turns out to be something as simple as that. Thanks again for your help!
I think chances are it's not the battery, since you said the lights come on. If the headlights are on and don't dim when you turn the key to "start", the problem is likely somewhere else, such as the starter solenoid as in the thread I referenced above. However, it still could be in the grounding system or a failure to get voltage from the key switch to the solenoid.
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91 Camry auto with 150000+ mi-best car ever
98 Tacoma ex cab 5 spd 1.7 liter with 85000 mi-new
98 Volvo V70 AWD with 140000 mi
Specialized Allez Elite
Assuming the battery is GOOD then
Single click and then silence indicates problem with solenoid contacts or open in the large wire from battery to solenoid while multiple weak clicks [solenoid shudder] can be sign of starter problem or extensive resistance in the circuit from ignition key to the ign. terminal on the starter [quick disconnect type, thin wire]
In this case I would recommend to attempt to start the car with 'remote starter' puchbotton switch that will be able to provide power directly from Battery + to the ign terminal of the starter. MAKE SURE THE TRANNY IS IN PARK A/T OR N M/T AND PARKING BRAKE IS SET!! If with push of the button, the engine starts the starter relay may help if not, service to the starter may be required
Multiple rapid clicks when trying to start is usually the sign of a weak battery (bad battery, bad alternator or loose alternator belt), or corrosion at the battery post/terminal connections or at the starter itself.
A single click when trying to start is the sign of worn contacts in the starter's solenoid. If this is the case do a search for "starter contacts" on this forum and read up on the problem and it's solutions.
Thanks for all the advice. Turns out (believe it or not) it was the battery afterall. I took it to an autoparts store to test; diagnosis = "replace battery". Took it back to Wal-Mart where I bought it; they replaced it. I asked why a relatively new battery would go bad since I'd only had it since September and they said "We just get bad batches of batteries." Sounds like a ringing endorsement!
Car's running and starting each time today after installing the replacement battery. It was still hesitating when accelerating around corners or after stopped at intersections, so that may be something completely unrleated. I'll see how it goes. For now, I've learned that I am capable of replacing alternators and batteries, and that these older cars are pretty easy to work on. I guess I'll keep it
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