Wheres the point when you stop dumping money into a car?

[zppeacock]

My 1990 Camry I4 Wagon is in need of some repairs. I don't know if its worth doing some of the repairs. 242,000 on almost all original parts.

It needs suspension all the way around. Drivers wheel bearing (Getting Fixed Next week), Both cv shafts.

Its a wisconsin car and its getting really crusty and rusty. When do I stop? I figured that once I replace the cv shafts the tranny or something is going to give out.

Is it worth it to keep dumping money into this car?

[bullisbm]

Your going to dump money into any car you ever own. It really just depends on what you want to spend it on.

Older cars require more money for maintenance than newer ones but new eventually becomes old so it's a vicious cycle. So it is more a matter of do YOU want to keep putting money into it.

I have cars from the 60's 70's 90's and 06. The older ones parts are cheaper but end up needing them more often. the new ones parts are much more expensive but need them less often (for now).

I would say if your happy with the car keep it, if not get one you will be happy with.

[TBayToyotaBoy]

Well I have to say that, if your car needs so much maintenance all at once, you've probably been neglecting the hell out of it (I'm not accusing, I've done it--I was a university student for five years). So the question is: while all of these things were going wrong (they didn't all happen at once), what was your plan? Were you planning to leave the issues and get a new(er) car once you'd driven the car into the ground? Or were you intending to fix them, but waiting until finances improved?

The drivetrains on 2nd gen Camrys are extremely resilient, and they can take a hell of a beating. If you're not experiencing transmission or engine problems now, it's extremely unlikely that they'll fail as soon as you fix the driveaxles. And a bagged-out suspension tends to cause other problems, like a domino effect.

So fixing the car is still worthwhile (especially if you buy used parts from a wrecker), but how bad is the rust? Can your pride handle driving a rust-bucket? Mine can, but my other car (a Celica) is in great shape and allows me some pride occasionally...

[zppeacock]

My plan for this car was to keep it for 1-2 years or untill something major happens to it.

I bought the car last april for $800, Its been a hell of a car. I bought it so that I could keep the miles off my 73 c20 while I commute to school and work everyday.

I got it up on a drive on lift today is my Suspension and Steering Class and did an Under body mulitpoint on it. Its got some sag in the front and back. The cv boots are starting to crack, all my rubber bushings are dry rotted which I figured, and I got 1 bad wheel bearing drivers front.

The rust is getting there, I have no rockers, fenders arnt bad yet, doors are getting there.

Getting the parts isn't a problem, I work at a major Toyota Dealership. But I would rather stick the money into my truck.

Edit: Ive done some matinence on it, 3x Tranny Flush, Oil Changed at 2500, 2x Coolant Flush, PS Flush, Fixed AC, New Brakes, New Tires.I haven't looked at the suspension as much until my Suspension Class because I really didn't know anything about it.

[Doctor J]

The suspension of 2 nd generation camry is not as strong as it can be designed:
-lower control arm busings are going out every 4 to 5 years;
-the service-free wheel bearings and ball joints are generally living less then these with grease fittings
-the independent rear suspension can go out of alignment.

I know, you cannot compare apples to oranges but on my 79-80 Supra the steering idler arm was only the suspension part that failed to the point it needed replacement
[all other parts were old but useable as is] ball joints have had grease fittings

[HomeGrown]

What the hell were your expectations of a $800 car??
This may be a newsflash, but the items you've listed that you did to it are common items that even a $6000 used car would probably need. It doesn't sound to me like it's anything real major, but it may last you a good long while. You seem to have a very defeatist attitude towards this car, assuming something else major will go wrong with it as soon as you fix something else. If you don't like the Camry, sell it now & recoup your $800, but good damn luck finding another car in that price range that will be as reliable as a Camry, and doesn't need any repairs or maintenance.
If this car is a local commuter car that won't see much highway use, you could simply just drive it until it stops. But being a Camry, that could be a good long while yet. I just sold a 90 wagon that had 380k miles on it, and it ran & drove extremely decent. Still sorry I got rid of that car, but it filled a need at the time, and did it extremely well. For many cars in this category, repairs often come "in a can". I wouldn't put too much more than a couple hundred more into it, and that's only if the engine sounds good and the tranny doesn't slip.

[malayan]

The money you save on payments and insurance on a newer one should outweigh any costs. Once fixed these cars go and go and go.

[zppeacock]

Don't get me wrong guys, I LOVE this wagon. I was just curious how much more $$$ I should put into it. I'm going to probley put another 300 into the car.

The motor runs awesome, and the trannys fine. The cvs might not be shot, after driving it today I think its just the noise from wheel bearing thats way out of spec. When I do the wheel bearing next week should I get the hub and the wheel bearing or just the bearing.

Should I worry about the suspension sag? According to the ride hight specs, im about 2 inches lower in the front and 1 inch lower in the rear.

[malayan]

Just get a bearing pressed in but I hope you have had it professionally diagnosed as a lot of times people think it is the bearing when it is not.
Good Luck.
BTW> You will eventually be putting more than $300 in it but it will be worth it.

[zppeacock]

I diagnostic it. Its the wheel bearing. My instructor looked at it also. The ball joints are surprisingly ok.

[TBayToyotaBoy]

You asked about the suspension sag...have you actually felt or heard any problems yet with the ride quality? Are the springs bouncing like a Vegas showgirl? Are the struts bottoming-out on bad bumps and hitting the bump-stops? I'm guessing that since you're in Wisconsin, your temps have been frigid as ours have here just north of Superior. Cold temps can cause the struts to sag considerably, as the gas inside the cartridges condenses. Was the car warmed-up in the shop for several hours before you inspected the suspension? If not, I would allow at least an inch sag for the cold temps.

[toyomoho]

As others have stated these repairs are typical for a Camry with this many miles, you would need to expect these repairs.

Are you doing your own repairs, if not the labor costs are going to add up fast. If so you will be able to do repairs for a very reasonable price.

Are you broke, if do minimum maintanance until you have some money or a job, then shop for another car. For $3-5K you should be able to find a Camry in much better shape, perhaps one that already has had all these repairs.

If changing the wheel bearing it is just a few steps from replacing the axle. Buy an El Cheapo new Cardone for $65, it may last longer then the car. Stay away from rebuilt axle.

Unless you have money to burn skip on the suspension repairs unless the car is unsafe.

Make sure the trans fluid is kept in good condition especially if an automatic.

There have been a few TN posts on extending the life of Camry's and what to do, suggest a TN search. Clean and fresh fluids have alot to do with component life.

Sooner or later rust is going to get the car, this may be your issue with how much money to spend. But keep in mind in many states the sale and transfer taxes on a $5K used car can be $400-500. This goes a long way on buying parts.

[JMSports]

Originally Posted by zppeacock

My plan for this car was to keep it for 1-2 years or untill something major happens to it.

I bought the car last april for $800, Its been a hell of a car. I bought it so that I could keep the miles off my 73 c20 while I commute to school and work everyday.

I got it up on a drive on lift today is my Suspension and Steering Class and did an Under body mulitpoint on it. Its got some sag in the front and back. The cv boots are starting to crack, all my rubber bushings are dry rotted which I figured, and I got 1 bad wheel bearing drivers front.

The rust is getting there, I have no rockers, fenders arnt bad yet, doors are getting there.

Getting the parts isn't a problem, I work at a major Toyota Dealership. But I would rather stick the money into my truck.

Edit: Ive done some matinence on it, 3x Tranny Flush, Oil Changed at 2500, 2x Coolant Flush, PS Flush, Fixed AC, New Brakes, New Tires.I haven't looked at the suspension as much until my Suspension Class because I really didn't know anything about it.

Heres how ive spent money for my car.

1200 to purchase
800 to replace rotted gas tank + straps
350 for Audio Equipment (12" subs, amps, wiring, new headunit)
50 for Misc Upgrades

[Doctor J]

I am having GREAT disbelief in life expectancy of today’s cars.
That's why I am LEASING 2007 Honda FIT
If you would like to change alternator on FIT you need to remove intake manifold [made of plastic]
The radiator R&R takes several hours, requiring front bumper removal
If I would have garage and time I'll buy the late 70's car and do restoration of it.
Too bad if the gas price will not go up [but it will] I'll going to be on suicide mission driving the small car around fat-assed SUVs driving by bullies.
I like small cars.

[HomeGrown]

It's a real shame that all automakers seem to assume that all consumers want bigger/fatter cars now. I've had only a very few full-size trucks or cars, most are always mid-size & compact.