Why is my car STILL running?

[rojo412]

So I've had my 91 DX 4 cyl wagon for a year now... bought it for $450 with a nasty knock in the engine (loud "TICK TICK TICK" when it is on). I have never changed the oil because it leaks or burns off. The "coolant" looked like a reddish, opaque rust water fluid. I flushed the radiator, but that didn't fix it. Recently, I added more fluids (oil and coolant, both clean, new and fresh) and what happened...

It blew out a nasty, chocolate-mousse-like substance from the coolant overflow. The overflow tank is filled with it. The oil is low again, coolant still nasty looking...

But it can drive across town, doing 80 on the freeway and it does it smoothly. Starts on the first time in close to 0 degree weather, heats up fine, gets 27 mpg, is comfortable, handles well and I love it. I bought a 94 V6 that I love too, but it cost me a bit more and that doesn't get driven as much as this does.

I guess the point of this post is 2 things:
1) What is happening to my coolant mousse? What is it?
2) I love these cars and am looking to get another gen 2 when this dies (even though it may never) because I've never had such a reliable car in my life and may never find one more so.

[disregard]

when you doing 80 on the freeway does it still may that ticking sound ?
You might have a bad bearing and a blown head gasket. Does it overheat on long trips ?
How many miles are on this thing and what the hell happened to it ?

[rojo412]

215k+ on the car. The ticking is most likely happening, but it's not loud enough inside the car at that speed to hear it. It does shimmy a bit at that speed, though. Doesn't overheat much unless I drive it more than 1.5-2 hours and even then, it doesn't get close to the red. Runs hotter than the Civic I used to have, but never overheats.

We have guessed all sorts of things... head gasket, cracked head, need of professional flush, etc. But the car runs so darn smooth and it is one of those things that I fear if I mess with it, the car will perish, but if I just let it go on its own, it may just last forever. Sounds dumb, but on more than one occasion, I have heard of people trying to fix a problem, only to cause more than what was going on before and whatever piece was being held in place by pure happenstance has moved and the flood of issues comes through.

And as much as I love this car, it's not in nice enough condition for me to take any heroic measures. I mean, with a little effort, I can get another one with a better body for $900 any day of the week. If it looked and felt new, but had a bad motor, I get a new motor or. But it's a beater rustbucket.

[atobe]

could be just a simple valve shims adjustment that's needed.. i bet your radiator's rusted through and may be you should replace it

[malayan]

FLUSH IT ALL OUT.

My customers had a very rusty cooling system like it had never been changed and we did a thourough flush for THE WHOLE SYSTEM (not just the radiator).

Removed the thermostat at the begining (easy, 2 bolts) It was rusted anyway...

WE TOOK THE OVERFLOW OFF AND HOSED IT OUT GOOD (it was half filled with solid mousse-like gunk).

We removed the radiator (Easy again ..2 bolts, 2 hoses, 2 tranny lines if automatic) so we could back flush it. Then stick water hose in the top end while out of car to make sure it could move water good through to bottom ( if it does not come out of bottom real good you probably better off putting a good used Rad in it)

We then bagan the flushing (engine cold only) by TURNING THE HEAT OFF and putting the water hose up the large hose going to the thermostsat.
Making sure that the first few flushes were done with the heater OFF (so the garbage that is coming out does not clog the heater core).

DON'T TURN THE HOSE ON HIGH. Just enogh to move all the gunk out

After 10-20 minuted or so you will see clear water NOW TURN THE HEAT ON!

Put it all back together.

Made sure the car was sitting level with the nose higher than the rear

When we first filled it up with 50/50 coolant (I use LOWTOX petsafe Antifreeze) and installed a NEW OEM THERMOSTAT (don't buy the cheap ones this is the weak link in the chain thing ya know...)
We were reving it up to get it done faster.........WHEN....
......A BUNCH OF AIR CAME FROM THE SYSTEM INTO THE OVERFLOW.

This is the system purging trapped air (almost thought it was a blown head gasket)

Let it come to temp at idle (not high rpm).

After about half hour we turned it off and LET IT COOL NATUALLY (1 hour)

Checked the fluid level.... Then let it idle to temp once more...

,,,,,,,,,,

I have heard that some people get this all done and still the water pump seal can still start leaking most likely because it was due anyway..


....oh well don't forget to put a new timing belt on while your at it... or youll be sorry! Right Dr.?

So Much for Chocolate Mousse ''''...He He

[rojo412]

Wow, that sounds... intense. I'd be all about it if it were a bit warmer, but I'm in Cleveland and I think I may be better off paying a shop to do it. I thought about doing the radiator, but felt that I'd regret it if the car died...

But seeing as I want another one of these, I guess I should just do it because worst case, I have a like-new radiator, as well as a car load of spare parts for the next one.

I truly appreciate the help.

[white90dx]

If the coolant is chocolate-y, then there is a good chance you have a blown head gasket (oil getting into the coolant). Smell it to see if there is any oil smell to it... You will also want to check your oil for coolant.

As for the ticking noise, my current Camry has been making a bit of valve noise (I think?) since getting it 20k+ miles ago... no changes. I don't care much about this motor though, since it will be swapped out soon with a nice 3s-gte.

If your coolant/oil hasn't mixed, just flush the radiator a couple more times and enjoy driving it!

-Charlie

[rojo412]

So it's a nice day and I'm attempting the system flush, as described. Killing some time while an expert makes his way over to help. But anyway...

The radiator was DONE! Falling apart like burnt paper in a fire. Found one in the yard that looked new, so that's going in.
Thermostat is gonna be new, as is the gasket, etc.
Cleaned overflow as well as possible, but still looks red. Proof is in the pudding (or mousse) when this is done, though, so I don't care what the color is of the plastic tank.

And as for my search for a new Gen 2, I have to wait for the tax return to come. But I am seriously conisdering the 3s-gte swap into a mint looking shell. But that's a story for another day (and thread). This feels like good practice for working on such projects though.
One quick question, though: Does a 3s-gte go into a V-6 engine bay easy enough? I only ask because I found a V6 that runs well and is cheap, though I'd rather have a 4, but if I were swapping... ???

I will post a full report when the flush has been road tested.

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by rojo412

So it's a nice day and I'm attempting the system flush, as described. Killing some time while an expert makes his way over to help. But anyway...

The radiator was DONE! Falling apart like burnt paper in a fire. Found one in the yard that looked new, so that's going in.
Thermostat is gonna be new, as is the gasket, etc.
Cleaned overflow as well as possible, but still looks red. Proof is in the pudding (or mousse) when this is done, though, so I don't care what the color is of the plastic tank.

And as for my search for a new Gen 2, I have to wait for the tax return to come. But I am seriously conisdering the 3s-gte swap into a mint looking shell. But that's a story for another day (and thread). This feels like good practice for working on such projects though.
One quick question, though: Does a 3s-gte go into a V-6 engine bay easy enough? I only ask because I found a V6 that runs well and is cheap, though I'd rather have a 4, but if I were swapping... ???

I will post a full report when the flush has been road tested.

Better to start with a manual transmission car for a 3s-gte swap. You pretty much have to run a manual with the 3s-gte and you might as well start with all the cables, hydraulics, starting circuit, etc. in the correct place.

Other than needing to find the correct engine side mount, there is no problem with starting with a V6 Camry for the swap. Actually, a V6 5-speed is the perfect platform - stiffer front springs, much stronger transmission (and easily swappable to even better transmissions), rear disk brakes, correct factory axles, etc...

-Charlie

[rojo412]

Well, all is done for now... I have the new radiator in and it is pumping clean, greenish-yellow coolant through the syetem. No oil, no rust. Beauty!

Decided to go further yesterday (another warm day). Replaced the valve cover gasket, which was the primary oil leaker. Also changed the oil (first time since last year!), which was never changed due to leakage/burnoff. And because oil had leaked into the plug chamber, I redid the plugs as well.

The car is loving it so far. All systems seem go, with the exception of the tranny which is okay, but could benefit from a professional flushing. And the noise is still TICKING away, but I'm not really worried. It's been there and will be there and I've grown to accept that.

I appreciate all your helps in this. All in all, it wasn't even that hard to do, further solidifying my decision to buy another Gen 2 as soon as I can afford it.
I love THIS car, don't get me wrong, but doing the required body work and a 5 speed conversion, as well as a rear disc conversion... I'd rather just have this as my daily and get the other for my sleeper. There's a V6 5 spd for sale that looks nice and is cheap, so if it's therewhen tax return comes... IT'S MINE!!!

[disregard]

yeah eventually you just have to replace the radiator on these cars as none are indestructible.
And when they go they cause all kinds of hell for our engines that DONT like extra heat.

Ever since I replaced my Radiator with a new NEW one I noticed.

Engine clatter (perhaps pinging) has went down
More power due to better cooling
Better gas mileage.
Stronger Heat on very cold days.
Noise vibration and harshness have all went down.
THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTS SMOOTHER

Hell then engine even seems to rev easier giving me back my lost torque.

So yeah the rad does alot for our cars.
and our cars cant take alot with out a good one.

[rojo412]

Yeah, totally. The cars here in Cleveland tend to get advanced wear as well, due to terrible winter weather and salted roads. My luck was to find the radiator, practically NEW, at pull-a-part for $40. The rest is to be noticed as the car gets used to being cared for.

And I added it up: This ENTIRE car has cost me $690 total (without the optional mods I did). When I had a Saab, JUST DOING THE FUEL PUMP cost me $816... so needless to say, I love what they do for me... TOYOTAS!

[2990carguy]

pure luck.