1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I need some questions answered so I can continue on my project. This is what I have done so far:
Pulled the head off and had a valve job done, new valve stem gaskets installed.
Pulled out pistons, cleaned and reringed.
At this point I was told to get new bearing for the pistons, so I had my machinest order me some. When I got the new bearing I realized I had also gotten main engine bearings. But the problem is the engine is still in the car, is there a way to check and install the main bearings without removing the crank? Also, do I need to put any grease on the piston or engine bearings and where on the bearings????
I've have some Moly-Lithium grease
Last edited by KeitaroUrashimaSan; 02-03-2009 at 02:17 PM.
Reason: Added note
...But the problem is the engine is still in the car, is there a way to check and install the main bearings without removing the crank? Also, do I need to put any grease on the piston or engine bearings and where on the bearings????
Probably not without removing the crank. I was going to say do one bearing at a time. But you might warp it as there is a tightening sequence.
Normal engine oil will be fine. Squirt some on the gudgeon pin/wrist pin and then on the surfaces on the thrust washer & bearings. You can a little on the cylinder wall as well so it's easier to slide the piston back in
you can do the mains, use an old rod bearing, straighten it out and leave a little curve on the end, use a small hammer and hit the opposite end from the tang and use a sharp screwdriver to dig it out after you get it started out with the old bearing, loosten all the mains, take the fan belts off and loosten the timing belt if its on and do the front one first, I like to use the squeeze lube tube for rhe new bearings, then the second one and do the next one until tou get to the back one, by the time you get to the back one the crank should be loose on the top half because the crank is sitting on the new thicker ones. pull downwards on the crank pulley to loosten the front ones up and the top halves will almost fall out, go not scratch the crank or drive the screwdriver in between the block and the crank
Turned out to be a piece of cake. All I had to do was push the end of the bearing with a screwdriver to loosen them. Once the bearings were loose I pressed the bearing against the crank (with my finger) while turning the crank. Bearing slided right own without scratching or damaging the crank. Installed the new bearings the opposite way.
I've finished rebuilding my engine. I have followed the directions here http://www.yotarepair.com/3S-FEtimingbelt.html for installing my timing belt. I had the Head cover off while I aligned the cam with the crank. I checked that the cam gear was at the proper mark. I was also able to verify the distributer was alligned with its notches as well.
When I try to set my timing while the engine is running the mark on the crank pulley is about 2 inches from the 15 marker. Adjusting the distributer to the maximum gets the mark at 5. I'm unable to reach the 0 mark. When the timing is anywhere between the 15-5 marks the engine dies. When the engine is 2" before the 15 mark it runs fine for about 15 seconds and then dies. If I adjust the distributer back I can start the engine again. Otherwise the engine will not start within the 15-5 marks.
But even though I have matched all the marks it seems like the cam and crank arn't matched up right. Shouldn't adjusting the distributer cause the crank to reach the 0 mark and past?
Last edited by KeitaroUrashimaSan; 02-25-2009 at 08:12 PM.
your balancer might have slipped on the rubber ring in between the 2 pieces, just move the distributor against rotation slowly over a few days until you hear a little pinging, then back it up to where it was and forget it
I have solved my starting problem. My ignition coil was working intermittenly, causing the car to start sometimes and not others. So I replaced the ignition coil and everything works! I have already put 300 miles on my car since I rebuilt it.
However, today I had trouble climbing a steep hill. The engine didn't seem to rev up and it had no power whatsoever. My speed dropped to about 3 Mph, then as the hill started leveling I gained more speed. What is causing this? I don't have any problems driving on level ground or on the freeway.
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