Start, Run, Die

[Oldlogger]

I have a 1990 Camry LE. V6, auto trans. I got the car for free but it had been sitting for about 1 year. With a new battery installed (the old one was stone dead) the car starts and goes to fast idle for a few seconds then falls off to a very slow loping idle and usually dies. However, if I push the throttle down even the slightest bit, it just dies but then I hit the throttle hard and it revs up momentarily. If I hold the throttle at say half and just sort of work the pedal right there it acts as if I am turning the ignition switch on and off as it will rev, drop, rev, drop, etc.
I bought a manual and started diagnosing what I could using a volt/ohm meter (digital). So far, everthing but the MAF has checked OK. The bench test of the MAF indicated an extremely eratic reading from closed to wide open position so I replaced it with a reman unit. The engine now starts and runs for a bit longer (maybe a minute) then starts to idle back to the lope stage. The throttle action as mentioned above still exists. I have a bad PVC valve and the grommet is toast as well. I pulled the vacumn line off the manifold and plugged it off, but I will replace the valve and grommet and proceed.
At this point, I am suspect of the fuel pump and or TP. The pump opening relay also checks to be working according to spec.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated, Thanks

[Justin727]

I would say you are going in the right direction! When and if you do change the pump knock out the filter as well.

[Mike Gerber]

Just a wild hunch here. Since the car had been sitting for a year, probably outside, did you ever check for obstructions in the air intake? It's possible some critter could have build a nest inside there. I have seen this a few times.

Aside from that thought, your symptoms could be caused by a weak coil. Check the coil inside the distributor with the DVM and the specs from the manual. These are known trouble areas on the first 3 generations of Camrys, as they age and get considerable mileage on them.

Mike

[Oldlogger]

OK, I checked out the coil with the VOM and it checks just slightly out of parameters. With a timing light attached via induction, it lights constant and does not appear to be leading the stall.
However, I pulled my ISC off and guess what? It is stuck wide open. I benched it with power and a 1,2,3,4 grounding sequence and all I get is a light thump from the stepper with no movement in the valve. Now for the eye opener, My LPS said that those are a dealer item only. I called Toyota and they told me (drum roll please) that'll be $514.00. YIKES.......
I'm searching the bone yards.

[toyomoho]

Rockauto has an aftermarket part that is slightly cheaper.

Dallas of Toyota or Bob Bridge Toyota in Renton offer discount prices.

[Mike Gerber]

"However, I pulled my ISC off and guess what? It is stuck wide open."

Have you tried giving it a good cleaning with some carb or throttle body cleaner? Then retest it. It seems as if you have nothing to loose by trying.

Mike

[Justin727]

not only that but carb cleaner is readily avialible and cheap!

[Oldlogger]

OK, this thing is starting to piss me off.
At this point I have tested every known parameter of the ECU with the exception of the O2 sensor. The car fires right up runs up to 2000 RPM then slides right off to a 500 or less RPM lopy idle and then just slows down to "CLICK....DEAD"
The engine has 150'000 miles and had a new timing belt installed at 115'000. I don't know if that was the first or second replacement but whatever? As this thing lopes along at idle, if I pinch off the idle air bypass hose it will smooth out, but eventually dies anyway. I would think that with all this going on that I would at least pick up a fault code. So far there are no codes, just a steady light flash. I am beginning to suspect a bad ECU. I checked fuel pressure and it goes to 44-45 lbs on the gauge so the pump is doing it's job just fine. Ive even gone so far as to spry WD-40 around all possible vacumn leak ares with no change.
OK all you Yota experts out there, what the hell is going on with this peace-O-&*#%.

[Oldlogger]

OH, by the way, I forgot to mention that I used the cleaner idea on the ISC and it appears to be functioning now. So I put it back on for a retry.

[Mike Gerber]

"I checked out the coil with the VOM and it checks just slightly out of parameters"

You might need to replace the coil. Aftermarket ones run about $40-$50.

Mike

[Oldlogger]

Thanks Mike, I may try that if my ECM checks out. I'm taking it to the dealer and heave them run a scan on it to rule out that first. I can get a reman ecu out of Texas for $275. The folks down there tell me that between the years 88 and 91, all the Japanese made ecu's were assemble with a few inferior components that had about a 50'000 mile life span. Sometimes you got lucky.

[Mike Gerber]

"The folks down there tell me that between the years 88 and 91, all the Japanese made ecu's were assemble with a few inferior components that had about a 50'000 mile life span."

To me that sounds like what comes out of the southbound end of a northbound horse. Something to promote sales of their product. If that was the case, we would have seen a rash of ECU's replaced. I just don't hear of that many reading this forum. My niece had a 91 Camry and put about 150,000 miles on it without ever replacing the ECU. That car originally belonged to my brother-in-law since new, so I know it's complete history. (I did have to repalce the coil on that one to solve a wet weather drivability problem.) Maybe other owner's of 88-91 Camrys could give us some history of their car's ECU's.

Mike

[disregard]

No problems here so far with my ECU and mines an 87.
However the coil has to be replaced on mine because im having
that same problem with wet driveabilty

[Oldlogger]

Well, OK then, I'll spring for a coil and let you know what it does. I've got the ECM out now so I'm going to have it check just for GP anyhow. It can't be that big of a deal to plug it in and run it through it's paces.

I'll keep ya posted

[Justin727]

updates?