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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 02-25-2009, 11:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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pleas help 91 camry alltrac no power

i have just changed the timing belt, tensioners and springs, waterpump, distrubtor, leads, iridium plugs, radiator, thermostat, mass airfow sensor, and a broken turn signal lens. the lens is not important. any way, the timing is dead on but there is no umph at all. the car does not want to accelerate. there is no pick up. i am stumped. before i did any work to it the pick up was fine now its not. the car had no work done to it in a while. timing belt and water pump never changed. also drained and serviced transmision (car is automatic).

thanks
george
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Old 02-26-2009, 02:25 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Are you absolutely sure the timing is correct? Cams lined up at the correct notch and the distributor set to go off 10*BTDC?
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I agree, I've done it twice where I would have sworn timing was set properly but was actually a tooth off. Car drives and runs well but no "get up and go".

So how does an AllTrac end up in Florida? Seems kinda like a fish out of water... (My wife wishes my AllTrac was an Automatic. (Insert evil laugh here))
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Old 02-26-2009, 11:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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At least you got the All trac Camry's. I don't think we got them here; only the all trac corolla wagons, no sedan
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i am 99 percent sure the tiiming is dead on. the number 1 cylinder (tdc) was all the way up the cam points lined up and the crank was dead on zero when i put the belt on. i'll try messing with the distributor again and just set it where it runs the best, see what happens. if that doesn't help rip it all down and start again. can't wait! oh ya, i think the camry came from ny or jersey, its my girlfriends dad's car and i wish i never would have offered to do this. he is a real nice guy though. i cant see letting him pay a "mechanic" a but load of money to do it.

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Old 02-26-2009, 10:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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just caught that 10 degrees (before top dead center)? i jump the diagnostic conector. (what the manual states) but i set it at zero. is that wrong?
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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two more question. say if i am off a tooth or two on the belt. would the timing light still read good. Also, i was told these are close tolerance engines. Were, if i where to foul up the timing it would just ping like crazy or just not run at all.

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Old 02-26-2009, 11:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbd8977 View Post
two more question. say if i am off a tooth or two on the belt. would the timing light still read good. Also, i was told these are close tolerance engines. Where, if i where to foul up the timing it would just ping like crazy or just not run at all.

thanks
Well, my manual says to jump the diagnostic connector to stop it from further advancing the timing and then set to 10* BTDC(before top dead centre). This allows some time for the combustion process to fully complete when it's at the top of the stroke, giving the most power. I think you can further advance it manually to get a few or kicks out it, but more on that later.

Yes, the timing light only lights up when the distributor goes off; it won't know whether the timing is correct. Don't know about the close tolerance part, but i've read quite a number of threads here about a lack of power, and it was usually because the timing was off(they just did a timing belt job). One tooth makes a huge difference.
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Old 02-26-2009, 11:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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What got me both times is I got everything all lined up and put the belt on and I didn't get all of the slack out between the crank and the cam so when the tensioner took up the slack on the back side it caused the one tooth off problem.
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Old 02-27-2009, 03:05 AM   #10 (permalink)
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thanks guys, i'll play with the distributor and if that doesn't do it i'll redo the timing belt. one more thing, please bare with me. so i have the timing light hooked up to #1 lead. with the light poiting at the crankshaft. it blinks the same time crankshaft lines up with zero. even if that is happening the timing still can be off?

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Old 03-01-2009, 03:33 AM   #11 (permalink)
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you want to make sure that when to timing light hits that the mark on the crank is reading at 10* BTDC, not on 0*. (if im not mistakin??) so if that statement is true, then reading zero would mean that the timing is off. i know my car is running at about 14* BTDC with the JDM head that is on the car. but yes, timing is the biggest concern.
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Old 03-02-2009, 02:29 AM   #12 (permalink)
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thanks

thanks you all. it was at 0. when i set it to 10* btdc it gets up and goes now. the pdf manual i got online was not that great. not much of a car mechanic i just try to follow the instructions. thanks again.
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