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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 02-28-2009, 10:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2nd Generation 2vz-fe distributor cap removal?

Hi all,
I'm trying to remove the distributor cap on my 90 Le sedan. The factory manual says to "unlock" the cap when disconnecting the high-tension cords. How do you do this? I've got the air cleaner hose/box out and barely got my hands to fit in to remove 1 screw on the cap. I got 1 cord off and the rest just will not come off. They have a "helmet" (for lack of a better term) on each cord and I've only been able to get one off. But the bigger question is, how do you get the cap off? After I remove the screw towards the radiator-side and the one by the electric plug/connector, are there more? Do the dust shields have to come off? Augh. This is killing me, there is NO clearance to work in that area!
Thanks for your help,
Jeff
90 Le sedan 2vz-fe AT
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Hey Jeff, I feel your pain. There is actually another screw under there, IIRC. It's under the heat shield, making it tougher to get at. It's much easier with the plug wires/coil feed wire off first, though.

To remove those little clips that hold the wires on, use a screwdriver to pry gently up on the little tabs. Then gently wiggle the plastic clips off, and then pop the wire boots off the distributor cap. With these off, you'll have a much, much easier time dealing with the cap and rotor. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet with an extension and an 8mm socket, and the bottom (unseen) screw will come off. Unless you have giant hands, you can actually feel for where that bottom screw is and guide the socket that way.

Hope this helps.

Tim
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hey Tim,
Thanks for your reply. I appreciate the advice on how to get the wires off the d.cap. I'm going back to work on the car some more today so I'll post up any other questions that come along. When you buy the d.cap and the rotor do you get the larger O-ring with it? The exploded-view of the d.cap in the repair manual shows a large O-ring and the small O-ring (under the distributor housing which I'm going to try not to take out)

Thanks!
Jeff
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1883atlantics View Post
Hey Tim,
Thanks for your reply. I appreciate the advice on how to get the wires off the d.cap. I'm going back to work on the car some more today so I'll post up any other questions that come along. When you buy the d.cap and the rotor do you get the larger O-ring with it? The exploded-view of the d.cap in the repair manual shows a large O-ring and the small O-ring (under the distributor housing which I'm going to try not to take out)

Thanks!
Jeff
Hey Jeff, I've never replaced either o-ring, and I've never had any moisture problems (or oil leaks). My 2VZ has almost 400,000km on it now, so that's an indicator of how long they can last. If you're leaking oil, then I definitely suggest replacing them--they can't be very expensive, even at the dealer (where you'll probably have to get them--parts are scarce for these cars now). I'll check back tomorrow (Mon) night to answer any more questions you may have.

Tim
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:00 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hey Tim,
Update: Got the stinking distributor cap off, finally! The tab on the wire covers was upside down on every wire, making it near impossible to pry off. The cap started to crack up it was so brittle. The heat shield was not possible to take off as a hard line is blocking one of the screws to detach it. I tugged on the cap and it broke around the 3rd bolt (bottom) and I cleaned up the shards. The rotor doesn't look to bad but I will replace anyway. Now my question is, where do these distributors tend to leak oil? I have no oil in where the rotor sits. Looks brand new. The O-ring (large) was melted and that was actually the "glue" holding the cap on so firmly. So I need a new large O-ring. I am not removing the distributor at this point (no need, yet). So if you have any advice on the oil leaks I'd appreciate it. Thanks for all your help.
Jeff
90 Le sedan 2vz-fe AT
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Old 03-02-2009, 02:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hey Jeff, well it sounds like you're in good shape. If there is no oil leak visible with the cap off, then you don't have a leak. Just inspect the circumference of the distributor and make sure there is no moisture (oil creepage), and if there is then replace the oil seal. Otherwise, it sounds like you're good to go.

I have to be honest: the 2VZ has a very stable and reliable distributor set-up. Of all the Toyota powerplants I've owned (3SFE, 3E, 4AF, 4AFE, 4AGE, and now the 5SFE in my Celica), the 2VZ is the only one that hasn't developed a disrtibutor seal leak.

Good luck!

Tim
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Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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^^^ I agree
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Old 03-03-2009, 10:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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should I get a Toyota cap and rotor? Or can I use one from any old parts store? I'm not sure if the Toyota parts are that much better quality, but I do want this repair to last because getting to that cap and rotor is something I do NOT want to repeat for quite a long time lol

thanks
Jeff
90 Le sedan 2vz-fe FWD AT
140K miles
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Old 03-04-2009, 07:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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stick with toyota! Remember if the original toyota stuff last this long why not stick with it since its tried and true?

its not much more then the aftermarket premium parts anyways and you get better piece of mind!
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Old 03-05-2009, 01:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Justin's 100% right on this. Toyota parts are better quality, and they're not too much more expensive than premium aftermarket. Whil I was back in school for the last few years, I had no money for dealer parts; I bought aftermarket and I've regretted it. I'd rather scavenge used Toyota parts off a scrap yard car than buy more aftermarket stuff...inferior plastic, for the most part.
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Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
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Old 03-05-2009, 02:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm not going to lie about it. The only thing NON toyota on my car is the driver cv axle. It's LT warranty but a few hundred less then a yota axle so thats ok. I may have my original alternator rebuilt since it is making bearing noise or I may go AM with LT warranty.

Also the only other two things I may have that not yota in time would be the power steering pump and rack.
As far as tune up items and general things I go straight to toyota. I've personally been around yota's for a good bit and have built a few Supra's and we always use toyota gaskets and parts. We very rarely go aftermarket unless we've built an engine using whoopdy doo parts.

Last edited by Justin727; 03-05-2009 at 02:59 PM.
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