Think I need A New Half Shaft - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

zppeacock · 03-03-2009, 06:16 AM

When I was doing my alignment yesterday, I noticed that the inner boot on my drivers half shaft was flinging out grease, there is no tairs in it? Also I can grab that shaft and wiggle it, I cannot wiggle the other side?

Do you think I need a new half shaft? Or just the Inner Boot.

1990 Camry Wagon I4 244k

dorman68 · 03-03-2009, 06:25 AM

For the price of a reman axle, it's not worth to mess around with replacing a boot.

zppeacock · 03-10-2009, 10:05 PM

Its the driver side shaft, I was looking at the axle manual on the camrystuff.com site and it seems like there are many different way to remove these. From what I read some have bolts holding them in, some you have to drain the transaxle. Some people have told me that all I have to do is pull the old one out and slide the new one in? Im really confused on which half shaft I need to get. And how to get the old one out.

Its a 1990 Camry wagon i4 245k, vin starts with J

Any help on this would be awesome.

Edit: Just looked at rockauto and there are 2 for a AT Japan built car. They look like they bolt on, but I dont think mine bolted on?

white90dx · 03-11-2009, 01:02 AM

Just look under there and check... Order one from your local auto parts store (should be much less than $100 after core refund), then make sure it is the right one before you actually buy it from the auto parts store.

-Charlie

dorman68 · 03-11-2009, 06:27 AM

as per Alldata

Conversion Calculator

1990 Toyota Camry Wagon L4-2.0L (3S-FE)

Vehicle Level

Transmission and Drivetrain

Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints

Axle Shaft Assembly

Axle Shaft

Service and Repair

Front Drive Shaft Removal

Front Drive Shaft RemovalNotes

NOTICE: The hub bearing could be damaged if it is subjects to the vehicle weight. such as when moving the vehicle with the drive shaft removed. Therefore, if it is bearing first support it with SST.
SST 09608-16041 (09608-02020, 09608-02040)

REMOVAL OF FRONT DRIVE SHAFT

REMOVE COTTER PIN, LOCK NUT CUP AND LOCK NUT

(a)Remove the cotter pin and lock nut cap.(b)Loosen the bearing lock nut while depressing the brake pedal.

REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER

REMOVE FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL
DRAIN OUT GEAR OIL FLUID

DISCONNECT TIE ROD END FROM STEERING KNUCKLE

(a)Remove the cotter pin and nut from the steering knuckle.(b)Using SST, disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
SST 09628-62011

DISCONNECT STEERING KNUCKLE FROM LOWER BALL JOINT Remove the two bolts and disconnect the steering knuckle from lower ball joint

DISCONNECT DRIVE SHAFT FROM AXLE HUB Using a plastic hammer, disconnect the drive shaft from the axle hub. NOTICE: Cover the drive shaft boot with cloth to protect it from damage.

REMOVE LH DRIVE SHAFT Using hub nut wrench and hammer handle or an equivalent, remove the front drive shaft as shown. HINT: Be careful not to damage the dust cover.
REMOVE RH DRIVE SHAFT

(a)Remove the drive shaft.(b)Remove the three bolts, bearing bracket and stay.

IF NECESSARY, REPLACE DRIVE SHAFT OIL SEAL

(a)Using SST, drive out the oil seal. SST 09308-00010

(b)
SSTUsing SST, press in a new oil seal.
A/T 09350-32013(09351-321 50), 09631-12020
M/T 09316-60010(0931 6-00010)</B>

zppeacock · 03-11-2009, 08:41 AM

Ill check under the car once we get out of this cold spell.

Thanks for the alldata, But I got a problem, I could never get the fill plug open. Thats why I dont really want to drain it.

Justin727 · 03-11-2009, 09:41 AM

Go with an aftermarket source that offers a Lifetime warranty. I have and haven't had any problems with mine and if it ever messes up I can just exchange it for a new one.

white90dx · 03-11-2009, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zppeacock

Ill check under the car once we get out of this cold spell.

Thanks for the alldata, But I got a problem, I could never get the fill plug open. Thats why I dont really want to drain it.

Unless you have bolt-in axles or an Alltrac, you are pretty much guanteed to drain the transmission when you swap axles.

It might be time to carefully cut the fill plug out and get a new one to complete the job.

-Charlie

mmgando · 03-12-2009, 11:49 PM

zppeacock,

I recently encountered the exact same conundrum on our 1990 camry stawag (195k, L4 2.0 Liter, AT). I too found it hard to determine which driver side axle to buy but after taking a look under tha car I ended up with one from Kragen, made by Cardone, Part Number: 605022. According to Kragen's description it is for a USA built cars but if I am not mistaken my VIN, which starts JT2SV21..., signifys our car was built in Japan. Either way, the part looked identical to what I could see under the car and so I picked one up at my local store. Today I tried my hand at the exchange and I can confirm that for our car, it was the right axle.

That said, after installation I still have a bit of a click as the wheels turn but it is now dark so I can't investigate any further. It feels as if it is coming from the transmission or at least the inner cv joint. (Update: I looked at things in the morning and my ears were right, the metal clip which holds on the inner CV boot was lightly striking the metal shield connected to the transmission. It was only a problem where the band had been crimped however, so after flattening it a bit everything now runs smoothly.)

Lastly, the instructions I followed also suggested draining the transmission fluid first but since I was unsure how successful I was going to be in removing the original (first time and all) I decided it didn't want to drain anything until I had the axle ready to be taken off. When I got to this stage, however, I figured that if it was to be drained it might as well start the process by leaking out when the axle was fully removed. I therefore positioned a drain pan as I removed the axle but to my surprise nothing but a trickle came out leading me to believe the drain is not necessary since our transmission fluid levels are normal according to the dip stick. Again, I am relatively new at some of this stuff so I may be wrong (please tell me if I am) but that is what I have experienced thus far.

Lastly, congrats on getting to 245k! We are hoping to achieve the same but unfortunately just failed our CA smog test (high HCs). It looks like the state will help us with $500 worth of repairs if we chip in the first $100 so hopefully, even if we need a new Cat, she will be back on the road again. Good Luck!