91 Camry LE 4Cyc hesitation + Dying. - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 03-08-2009, 07:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question 91 Camry LE 4Cyc hesitation + Dying.

For the past 3 weeks now I've been having a re-occurring problem with my 91 Toyota Camry.

The problem is that the car upon acceleration seems to hesitate and shifts slightly odd. It also idles at 600rpm and will die at times at intersections, or just warming up outside of my house.

The problem happened a couple of months ago, with just the hesitation, but a change of Spark plugs fixed that problem. The dealer which changed the spark plugs did not change change the Cap/wires. Thinking this may be problem I went and replaces the old cap/wires. (I did some reading online about it)

This seemed to have fixed it from hesitating a lot, and has brought down the times it dies but today it died again. It only seems to hesitate or make problems after you turn it on, drive it around, turn if off for a little while, then start it back up. The problems do not appear if you turn it on after it has been sitting outside in the cold for 6hrs+. My one friend believes its the fuel filter causing this, but I'm not too sure.

I read online about the same types of problems and Fuel Filter is listed there, as well as EGR Valve and vacuum lines, and other things as well.

Any input into this problem would be greatly appreciated. If you would like any more information about the car, just ask and I'll deliver if its valid.
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Old 03-08-2009, 08:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by storyoftherealms View Post

I read online about the same types of problems and Fuel Filter is listed there, as well as EGR Valve and vacuum lines, and other things as well.
Based on what I've read here, it might also be the ignition coil.
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Old 03-08-2009, 08:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by aussie_gen1 View Post
Based on what I've read here, it might also be the ignition coil.
Ignition coil was replaced 2 years ago. Would it go that fast?
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Old 03-09-2009, 01:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well, it SHOULDN'T...

Not sure the idle for a Gen 2, but 600rpm might be a touch low. I think it's 700 or 750 for the Gen 1, which is what I'm slightly more familiar with...
I tuned my idle by ear BTW, and it accords pretty well with the standard tacometer. I think I read in the workshop manual that a lot of systems (which I took to mean the ECU etc) rely on the idle speed for calibration, and mine certainly shifts better as an unexpected side effect.

Having said all THAT, if it only seems to do it when warm, that should narrow it down a bit (and probably not to low idle). To what, I do not know. I guess we'll have to wait for a knowledgable high post member to advise. In the meantime I'd be visually checking the things you mentioned above.
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Old 03-09-2009, 02:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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In addition to checking the coil, I would also do a thorough cleaning of the throttle body, paying particular attention to spraying the cleaner liberally down in to the hole in front of the throttle valve, in the base of the throttle body. That hole leads to the idle air control valve, where a dirty valve may be causing your problems. This is cheap and easy to do yourself. Here's a good post on how to do it on a 5SFE engine. Your 3SFE engine should be virtually identical:

How to: Cleaning Throttle Body -4 Cylinder Engines- With Pictures

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Old 03-10-2009, 01:10 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Mine did the same thing after i pressure washed my engine while it was still hott! So therefore it cracked my distributor, so then i had to get a new(Used) one and so it still mis-fire and hesitate. I changed caps, wires, and plugs. Boom! fixed it.
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Nusdogg View Post
Mine did the same thing after i pressure washed my engine while it was still hott! So therefore it cracked my distributor, so then i had to get a new(Used) one and so it still mis-fire and hesitate. I changed caps, wires, and plugs. Boom! fixed it.
I see, I haven't changed the distributer itself, but it could be that. I am getting it looked at on Friday, seeing as it is getting a oil change. (I can do the oil change myself but there is nowhere nearby to dispose of the oil so I just take it to a shop in town)
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
In addition to checking the coil, I would also do a thorough cleaning of the throttle body, paying particular attention to spraying the cleaner liberally down in to the hole in front of the throttle valve, in the base of the throttle body. That hole leads to the idle air control valve, where a dirty valve may be causing your problems. This is cheap and easy to do yourself. Here's a good post on how to do it on a 5SFE engine. Your 3SFE engine should be virtually identical:

How to: Cleaning Throttle Body -4 Cylinder Engines- With Pictures

Mike
I will look into that as well. Thanks
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Old 03-13-2009, 05:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Update:
Issue still is not fixed. I have cleaned the throttle body, albeit not REALLY good, but fairly good, and the issue still remains. I am bringing it to a local shop on Monday now as they were too busy to get me in today (being Friday).

The issue seems to have changed a bit. It still hesitates and dies in the cold but it doesn't hesitate once the engine has warmed up. It also doesn't show any signs of problems when going faster then 50 Km/h. Though it idles at 600rpm approximately once it has warmed up.
Unusually if you turn it off after driving some distance for a time, and start it, it will immediately die. To keep it alive you have to start it and press on the gas.

Any ideas? Will it cost lots to repair?
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'd still raise the idle slightly, so it at least idles at around 700- 750 rpm when warm.
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by aussie_gen1 View Post
I'd still raise the idle slightly, so it at least idles at around 700- 750 rpm when warm.
We were trying to raise it but the screw is all stuck. Very unusual.
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Update:
Still has not been resolved, but, me and my dad took out the far right spark plug and found that it was wet, compared to the far left one which is dry. Seems its flooding in at least one cylinder. Didn't check any other cylinders (2 middle ones). Going to check to see if the distributor is alright.

Also the auto-shop which was looking at my car couldn't read the diagnostics and they think its the throttle sensor, but with this new in site, we don't think its that. They didn't charge me anything for looking at it though.
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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if you suspect the leaking injector try to unplug electrical connector, then start the engine ;if injector is stuck open the car will not misfire.

Last edited by Doctor J; 03-20-2009 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 03-22-2009, 10:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Question Update:
Is it possible the problem could be caused by something in the exhaust? Like a O2 sensor or the Catalytic Converter? Also is there anyways to test this to see if it is one of those, as well as a diagram/guide how to do it? (Underside of my car is not clear to me, nor really is much of it, much more a computers person then a engine person)

Thanks
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Old 04-07-2009, 06:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Problem Fixed

UPDATE:

Problem was solved at the Toyota Dealer. Brought it there and got it fixed. The Fuel Pressure Regulator was dying so they changed it. Costs 460$ approximately. Thanks for everyone's help!
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