check engine light

[Damea]

my chech engine light came on about thirty minutes ago..... no visible smoke, checked my oil, water/hose pressure, rad. fans still work, touched rotor cap and wires, checked gas cap and door,..... then i turned it off, all good, had to make it to the first stop, on the freeway.... let it sit for ten min..... back on the road to make it home, freeway again 20min later home free..... no apparent noise, no different sounds, no loss of power(didnt push it harder than needed)no reason that i could see/hear........now i do have a engine noise ever since i changed the rod end bearings and when my oil is low it gets louder, i think it been getting worse but hearing everyday its hard to tell a difference, now i know i got problems between me running the shit out my car already everyday and things like having to put in oil every week or so

my question is isnt there something that you can use to diagnose through like codes or something or is it to late? should i check compression?

i know what i should do but i dont want to unless i have to(run it till she blows).... i love this car but i treated it like shit when i first got it and now regret my actions,but whats done is done and now all i can do is patch her up.......

so once again i put my faith in the great gods of TN to help this retarted gen 2 killer get the poor 3s back on the road, any help is greatly appreticiated

[Mike Gerber]

Most check engine lights come on for things that are emissions related, not total engine failure. You can read the code(s) yourself on these older OBD1 models with a paper clip or a piece of wire by shorting 2 terminals in the diagnostic connector under the hood and counting the flashes of the check engine light. The procedure should be in any manual. You can go to the top of the Camry forum over at AutomotiveForums.com and download the manual for free. Download the generation 2 manual. It will have the procedure and a description of what system(s) the code(s) point to.

Mike

[Damea]

tested codes came back, 12 (rpm signal), 21 (main oxygen sensor signal), 43 (starter signal)......

i know the starter issue is probably due to my bypass switch, and the 21 code is probably due to my pod filter and fart can exaust

i have to make a video then ill be back........

and a big thanks mike

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by Damea

tested codes came back, 12 (rpm signal), 21 (main oxygen sensor signal), 43 (starter signal)......

i know the starter issue is probably due to my bypass switch, and the 21 code is probably due to my pod filter and fart can exaust

i have to make a video then ill be back........

and a big thanks mike

You're welcome.

Mike

[Damea]

well if someone could tell if this is an immedit issue or can i drive my car untill i get a chance to look into it more.... it drives fine

anyones opinon will be greatly appreciated on the engine codes or where i should look at first.... thanks

[Damea]

!!!!!!CLICK THE VIDEOS TWICE!!!!!!!(two different windows)

this video shows engine codes:



this video shows my starter bypass:



this video shows why i have the starter bypass:



this video shows my exhaust, pod filter, and recently almost complete paint job:



this video shows my master door switch:
(i went through three switches before i found out its just the ground in the switch)



this video shows my door chime fix:
(fuck that damn seatbelt control unit)

[Damea]

bump.....i need some help

[Damea]

bump .... anyone

[Damea]

bump...... this sucks

[Damea]

so i took off and cleaned the throttle body and egr valve/tube...... the only thing i didnt do was take apart the throttle body and the ISC/IAC/ICA whatever that damn thing is called i couldnt get the screws loss and i dont have any pb blaster or w/e its called so i just sprayed alot of TB cleaner and made sure the liquid coming out of the bottom of the ISC was clear......

another question i had was one of the tubes/lines on the bottom of the ISC had water in it... thats normal right???

[Damea]

heres the video it shows (DIRTY) MAF,throttle body, EGR valve, intake plenum(I think).......and a big chunk of carbon from the EGR hole cleaning/poke



hears the chunks of aftermath that i cleaned out

[Damea]

ok so i put it all back together and started it and it almost died then it started to sputter and run like shit..... so i started touching stuff.... hoses, plugs etc... then i touched the egr valve and it started to run a little better with my hand on it... i would take it off and it would go back to shit..... touched it again and fucking realized i didnt tighten the nuts that hold it on (only finger tight) so turned it off, tightend, then started it again and it ran beautiful.....
it sounds like its idleing a little low, i cant even hear my fart can anymore.....

Good things: car runs good.... sounds better than before....... car started with the key(first time in a year or so)....... check engine light went off.....

Thanks to everyone for thier help .... i guess..... but i figuered it on my own..... hopefully i acctually fixed the problem and didnt just "patch" it......

any input is still appreciated.......

[Damea]

well its been a couple days and a couple hundred miles so i decided to test and i am still coming bak with the test code 43... anyones input on how i could sovle this or tell me if its a big deal or not??? i have to smog my vehicle this month and i am wondering if this is going to make me fail emmissions ???

[primal]

any updates?