High idle around 1300 consistant... - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Justin727 · 08-01-2009, 08:21 PM

Alright I've got myself a high idle problem. I never let it bother me until I replaced both front and rear motor mounts today. Rear one was done for sure.
Anyhow I've got this silly high idle that even after warm up just settles down to 1300... I cant seem to find the problem. It use to every now and agian get down to 750 but thats been sometime. Before it starts tearing up my new mounts I wanted some insight.

I have checked all vacuum lines. Sprayed everything you think could leak with break cleaner to see if I would get a hick up. Pulled a vacuum on the egr valve to see if it was stuck.. It was not. Checked TPS and tapped on the IACV with no change.

Also since it idles high and I come to a stop. Theres still a constant popping sounds similar to someone under the car tapping the body with a hammer. But more consistant and faster then a normal person. It's faint not loud at all but I can tell its there until I let off the brakes. The high idle doesnt seem to help and is most of the cause for the hearing of it. Could this also be another mount possibly passenger side top???

Any help would be appreciative. I have cleaned the throttle body rather well.

I have replaced
Tbelt
W/P
Thermostat
Belts
Plugs
wires
cap
rotor
Plenum gasket
V/C gaskets, tubes, grommets
Frnt & Rear mounts
Flushed all fluids
and a few more things.

Edit 91 2vzfe 2.5L V6 auto

Mike Gerber · 08-02-2009, 11:38 AM

"Sprayed everything you think could leak with break cleaner to see if I would get a hick up."

Did you use this to test for vacuum leaks? If so, it's not the best stuff to use, since it's non-flamable and will not be burned by the engine. Use O2 safe carb cleaner to spray areas to test for vacuum leaks. You want the engine to smooth out a bit when the carb cleaner finds the vacuum leak, since the vacuum leak makes for a lean mixture. The carb cleaner richens it a bit and the engine runs smoother for a few seconds.

Also, when you cleaned the throttle body did you spray the cleaner liberally down in to the square or diamond shaped hole in the base of the throttle body? That hole leads to the idle air control valve.

For the popping noise, did you check the exhaust system for proper tightness and did you check all the heat shields?

Mike

Justin727 · 08-02-2009, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Gerber

"Sprayed everything you think could leak with break cleaner to see if I would get a hick up."

Did you use this to test for vacuum leaks? If so, it's not the best stuff to use, since it's non-flamable and will not be burned by the engine. Use O2 safe carb cleaner to spray areas to test for vacuum leaks. You want the engine to smooth out a bit when the carb cleaner finds the vacuum leak, since the vacuum leak makes for a lean mixture. The carb cleaner richens it a bit and the engine runs smoother for a few seconds.

Also, when you cleaned the throttle body did you spray the cleaner liberally down in to the square or diamond shaped hole in the base of the throttle body? That hole leads to the idle air control valve.

For the popping noise, did you check the exhaust system for proper tightness and did you check all the heat shields?

Mike

look at that "break" brake..

lol well I had carb cleaner and tried it but wasnt much left. I did clean out the TB very well spent a good time on it. Even did a fuel induction service via thru the tb afterwards.

When I get back to work monday Ill check for more vacuum leaks. I do not believe its in the exhaust but Ill check that as well. Sounds like a bushing somewhere might be the problem.

But ill give the car another once over!

Thanks Mike

Mike Gerber · 08-02-2009, 05:34 PM

"look at that "break" brake.."

Good thing this forum doesn't take off for spelling.

Mike

Justin727 · 08-03-2009, 07:15 PM

Alright.. used carb cleaner everywhere.. Check plenum bolts. Pulled vacuum on the egr and its working correctly..

Im at a loss now.

Justin727 · 08-06-2009, 07:47 PM

Mike, I believe I may have narrowed down my high idle.
Very much so possibly temp sensor..
I noticed after I cranked the car while it was warm that it went into warm up mode. Idling @ 2300 for a few then back down to where its suppose to be. Did this a few times actually today.
There are 2 temp sensors on the camry correct? 1 for the gauge and 1 for the ecu?? If so where is its location?

Also I believe I have narrowed down the clunking I get a stop light. Lower control arm(bushings). Sounds like being taken up the hill on a wooden roller coaster. lol

Well once I get the a/c job complete suppose I have some new things to tackle. Awesome

TBayToyotaBoy · 08-06-2009, 11:10 PM

Oh, those stupid control arm bushings...been there, done that. Don't mess around with pressing new bushings in, just do an ebay search and buy new arm/bushing assemblies (like this one: http://cgi.ebay.ca/CAMRY-NEW-L-H-FRO...d=p3286.c0.m14).

I'm also sorry to hear about your idle problem, mine ended-up being a sludge build-up on the butterfly valve in the throttle body. When you mention the "warm up mode", how long is it running at high rpms before dropping down? Even on hot start-up, my 2VZ always revs high...but then it drops to about 750rpm after around two seconds.

--Tim

Justin727 · 08-07-2009, 07:37 AM

yea I searched for some a few days ago. I suspected that could have been the noise. Found a pair on the bay for 99 shipped.

Seems to idle in warm up mode for atleast 10-15 seconds then drops to about 750 then slowly gets up to 1k and sits there..

Suppose I could take the throttle body off and get a closer look and see what I'm dealing with.

Mike Gerber · 08-07-2009, 03:18 PM

For the coolant temperature sensor you want to check the one that is under a green plastic connector. It may be telling the computer that the engine is cold when it is actually warm. That's the one that feeds information to the computer. You will need a digital volt/ohmeter and the specs from any manual to test it. If you don't have a manual, there are Toyota factory service manuals that are available for free downloading at the top of the Camry forum over at AutomotiveForums.com. Download the generation 2 manual. Test the sensor both cold and warm and compare it to the chart in the manual. Incidently, Toyota sometimes refers to that sensor as the ECT sensor in their manuals.

Mike

Justin727 · 08-08-2009, 08:42 AM

I swing by toyota and grab a camry TSRM.

I think that its very possible to be the sensor. Thanks for the heads up on its location.

I also encountered something that was alarming yesterday evening. I was driving around a nice turn around 40mph in pwr mode not realizing it was in power mode. Then the transmission started slipping. Could damn near free rev the car in gear and it barely move. Pulled over checked the fluid all was well.

Let it cool off and now everything is fine. I've been keeping it in normal mode and been easy on it since.
car only has 128k on it and all fluids are full, clean, and fresh. Hope the trans holds up

91 2VZ · 11-19-2009, 10:32 PM

Did you ever resolve this by changing the coolant temp sensor?