Some check over this for me (Tune up etc):

[vex]

Alright, I did some searching and found that the misfiring and lack of power may be a bad seal on the rotor and cap assembly. I'll be looking at that in the not to distant future. I've also run in to a few other problems that I would like some suggestions on:

It's a 91 automatic (v6--what's the engine code for that?). There seems to either be a bad electrical leak, or the battery is fubbard as I recently bought the car for my wife and I while I work on my car (just a regular old S4 FC), and the battery was good when we bought it, went out three days later and tried to turn it over and it was completely drained. A good jump and it was on its way. Is there any notoriously electrical zone on these cars that could cause a drain on the battery while it sits?

There also are a few leaks on it. It seems like it's leaking oil from the head gaskets, but i'm not 100% sure. Is there any particular location for oil leaks on these cars? I'm used to working on my FC and know just about all the ins and outs on those cars, but for this car I'm starting fresh. Also it seems as though replacing the ATF will not be all that difficult. What grade do these cars use for the Autos--Or better yet, is there a factory service manual available online for them?

Also what are the basic tune up procedures for these cars? I'm planning on doing the following as well as the previously mentioned fixes:

1) Oil Change
2) ATF change--filter replacement (maybe)
3) Spark Plugs
4) Dizzy replacement/fix/o-ring
5) Head Gasket (?)
6) Silicon Vac Lines
7) Air Filter
8) Battery (?)


Anything else I should be aware of for a tune up?

[emptystreets130]

Your head gasket will not cause an oil leak. It will cause a driveablity problem, overheating and compression problems. Plus you would have to remove the head just to get to the head gasket and you can't really see the head gasket or block with the engine intact. More likely, it's the valve cover, spark plug grommets and the camshaft seal that is the source of the leak.

Engine code: 2VZ-FE

Since you didn't list how many miles, I'm assuming it's over 100k.

Tune up needs and general stuff you should be looking at:

Camshaft seals, timing belt, water pump and tensioner, valve cover gasket, pcv valve, all fluid changes, motor mounts, spark, air and fuel service (spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, fuel injection cleaning - the high pressurized stuff). Check if the distributor cap and rotor is fine, new wires. As far as the vacuum hoses, I wouldn't worry too much about them unless if they are cracked.

When replacing the valve cover gasket, also replace the intake gasket and you could do the exhaust gasket while you're at it. You definitely want to change the PCV valve while you have it all taken apart.

Tranny fluid is Dexron III. I would recommend flushing it out a few times if you're going to drop the pan. There will be old fluids seating in the torque converter. I would drop pan, let it drain, put pan back on, fill it up, let it run, then drop the pan again and would do this step at least 2-3 times. Also get a new filter but don't install it when you're doing the flush.

[Justin727]

Don't forget to change the differential fluid as well it is seperate from the trans fluid you will be flushing out but takes the same fluid.

[vex]

Originally Posted by emptystreets130

Your head gasket will not cause an oil leak. It will cause a driveablity problem, overheating and compression problems. Plus you would have to remove the head just to get to the head gasket and you can't really see the head gasket or block with the engine intact. More likely, it's the valve cover, spark plug grommets and the camshaft seal that is the source of the leak.

Good to know. I was planning on dealing with the valve cover, but if the head isn't causing those problems then I'll leave it alone.

Engine code: 2VZ-FE

Thanks.

Since you didn't list how many miles, I'm assuming it's over 100k.

About 140k

Tune up needs and general stuff you should be looking at:

Camshaft seals, timing belt, water pump and tensioner, valve cover gasket, pcv valve, all fluid changes, motor mounts, spark, air and fuel service (spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, fuel injection cleaning - the high pressurized stuff). Check if the distributor cap and rotor is fine, new wires. As far as the vacuum hoses, I wouldn't worry too much about them unless if they are cracked.

Timing belt was apparently changed about a year ago, and I doubt he's put on more than 60k in that time. Though I will check for ware and tare on it. If it checks out I probably won't replace it.

So I'm looking at:
Camshaft seals,
Water Pump (What's the difficulty/time of that. I know on the FC it was dirt easy) and tensioner.
Valve cover gasket
pcv valve
oil
ATF
coolant
windshield wiper fluid
Motor mounts (any suggestions on locations to pick it up besides the dealer)
Spark plugs
Fuel filter
oil filter
air filter
spark plug wires
distributer (cap/rotor/o-ring)
intake gasket

When replacing the valve cover gasket, also replace the intake gasket and you could do the exhaust gasket while you're at it. You definitely want to change the PCV valve while you have it all taken apart.

Good to know.

Tranny fluid is Dexron III. I would recommend flushing it out a few times if you're going to drop the pan. There will be old fluids seating in the torque converter. I would drop pan, let it drain, put pan back on, fill it up, let it run, then drop the pan again and would do this step at least 2-3 times. Also get a new filter but don't install it when you're doing the flush.

Good to know. I'll be sure to do it that way. Would there be any benefit to using Redline or royal purple atf for it? I've had success using redling MTL in my FC, but if there's no benefit on these cars I won't bother with the extra money.

Thanks for your help.

[emptystreets130]

I haven't torn down the 2vz-fe motor myself. It might be a little difficult due to the lack of space to work.

As far as the motor mount. You could try your local automotive store or any place that specialize in import vehicle. They might have to special order it tho.

As far as tranny fluid, I would stick to conventional fluid. Adding redline or royal purple to a perfectly fine tranny could revel some leaks in places that was not leaking before. Some old gunk is good gunk so to say. Plus I don't think there will be a lot of a difference when switching fluids.