Transmission Dismount Help - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

stanno · 08-25-2009, 01:14 PM

Hey Guys;

I've been through the manual & this site and i haven't seen anything in any details on dismounting the tranny from the Gen 2 4cyl Camry. ... I've dismounted Manual gearboxes before from other make cars ... (suzuki mainly) in less than a day ... is it the same procedure ... i know the tranny is heavier ...bulkier and has more electrical connections to label and remove... But just checking with anyone who's done it before who could share any additional info... Will i need any special tools etc. ... I'm planning on changing my motor's rear oil seal...

Thanks

-Stan

trevmountain · 08-26-2009, 02:14 AM

Wow that's to funny. I just did it last weekend. You can see I posted pretty much the same thread as you did but nobody had anything to say about it. I essentially just figured it out on my own so I'm sure I could be of some help. I was just swapping out my broken tranny for another used one. Not very much room to work and you have to support the engine since all the engine mounts are actually what hold the transmission in as well. I just rigged up a pully system and hooked onto the center engine hook and supported it to the ceiling. That way you have the room underneath free of jacks for working space.

First you have to take off the air cleaner and unplug all the connectors ect. Unbolt the starter and remove. Unplug all the wires and unbolt the ground connections. I unbolted all the engine mount or tranny to frame bolts except for one on the driver side. I left that one connected on the driver side mount so it would support the transmission while I continued to work. I then got as many of the upper tranny to motor housing bolts out. Next you have to remove the cross bars underneath. There is one that runs length wise of the car and one that runs side to side. Then you have to get your axles removed and unbolt the suspension arm and steering arm. You'll need some new cotter pins. Remove the stabilizer bar. Getting the axles out was kind of a bear. I had to kind of use a pry bar to get the drivers side one to pop loose. The passenger side center drive shaft has a tension bolt you have to loosen and also a snap ring to disengage before pulling it out. After that you'll need to remove the torque converter cover and then unbolt the torque converter bolts. I just used a flat bar to push the flywheel or sprocket what ever you want to call it to access the bolts. You unbolt one and then push the flywheel around to the next bolt and so forth. Then get all the remaining tranny to engine bolts. I'm sure I'm forgetting a frew things here but basically just get all the bolts and wires ect that you can see, drain your fluid, unbolt the speedo cable, shifter cable, throttle cable, cooler lines anything you see.

Now if you've got access to a tranny jack I strongly recommend that. I didn't have one but I rigged a 15 inch x 15 inch steel plate to a regular lift jack by tack welding it on and then placing a rag over it so the transmission wouldn't just slide off due to all the leaking ATF. Make sure your engine is supported and stick your jack under there and get up on the tranny pan snugged up and then unbolt that remaining driver side tranny to frame support bolt and from there it just takes some massaging to get the tranny off the guide pins and clear. It is a very tight fit and takes a little effort. The order of this can be modified. This is just the way I did it. You just don't want to leave the engine unsupported or the tranny unsupported. That should be it.

If your going to be putting this tranny back in just make sure you get the torque converter on correctly. It has two grooves on the shaft that have to line up. It will make a clunk sound when it seats in there. If it's not on all the way the transmission will not work. Just turn it by hand while applying pressure until you feel it slide on. You'll know it when it happens. Hope this helps.

stanno · 08-26-2009, 08:59 AM

Great help ..!! Thanks... One question... Do you loosen all the engine mounts so that the unsupported tranny (when u un-do the tranny to frame mount) wont strain the other engine mounts...? I'm assuming don't undo them totally... just enough to get the engine some free play to be supported either by a hoist or something underneath... am i right..?

trevmountain · 08-26-2009, 11:51 AM

You got it. I tryed to keep a few bolts in until I could get the jack underneath the tranny to support it. Once supported take the remaining bolts out.

Having the one attatched on the driver side frame mount just keeps the transmission up and in the normal sitting position. That's why I left it for the end.

stanno · 08-26-2009, 12:50 PM

Great..! I usually leave the tranny to frame mount for last with the swifts too... Hoping i can get the seal out and the new one in without any special tools Tho i see in the manual that one is recommended... i'll improvise anyway... By the way... How did you get the bolts out of the drive plate..? Didnt the whole thing turn with the wrench/ socket tool...? I usually wrap a section of a big screw driver with cotton cloth and wedge it in the ring gear and the housing section... but other methods are welcomed since i don't really like doing it like this...

- Stan

stanno · 08-26-2009, 05:16 PM

Now that i'm reading back ur details... i'm seeing that they pretty much listed it in pictures in the manual... LOL... see below...

trevmountain · 08-26-2009, 05:25 PM

I wish I would have had that picture before I started. What manual is that in? Ya using a wrench to turn the drive plate, or a socket would work fine. Like I said whatever get's the job done. good luck

stanno · 08-26-2009, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trevmountain

I wish I would have had that picture before I started. What manual is that in? Ya using a wrench to turn the drive plate, or a socket would work fine. Like I said whatever get's the job done. good luck

Got it from www.camrystuff.com ... camry manuals online...

stanno · 09-03-2009, 02:13 PM

Can anyone help me out... I want to do a fluid change on my tranny before i start dismounting it from the engine... but i need a little enlightenment on a few areas. I see in the manual that there is a differential fluid... i'm assuming it must be different from the fluid i'd put in the tranny itself... But they carry the same name Dextron II ... I called the dealer and they said all i needed was around 6 quarts of the Dextron II (The manual said 5.6 which is more or less 6) ... But What i'm doing is just a drain and refill... So do i really need the 6quarts the dealer is referring to..? & Should i be buying a special fluid for the differential as well...?

-stan

trevmountain · 09-05-2009, 12:21 AM

All you need is ATF. I just refilled the diff before the install. I'd have a few extra quarts on hand for the torque converter.

stanno · 01-25-2010, 09:54 AM

Been a while since i updated this thread... But i finally got the wheels going on the Crank seal change... I started saturday morning earrrrrrly & got to pulling down the stuff... Saturday night i got everything except tranny out ...mainly cuz it was really just me and plus i was labeling stuff as i took them out to make re-assembly quick and less hassling... So sunday morning i called a friend and got to prying that big bitch off the engine and took the flex plate off and change the seal... mounted it back... and started fitting back everything... after adding all the fluids to the engine again... it was time to fire it up... only... there was not firing to be had... Turned the key... the ignition came on... engine fan came on (my sensor in the goose neck where the thermostat is was broken off from before) but the starter just went "click" and no turn over... no cranking nothing... just a click... i double... tripple and quadruple checked the wiring... everything is where they should be from what i can remember and what i labeled.... Could someone help me out... someone suggested that the starter isn't grounded... but there are only two connections goin to it... and both are there... so... how would i check... ??

-stan...

white90dx · 01-25-2010, 04:24 PM

Read the "starter relay" thread above. Its normal - your battery is just drained a bit and there isn't enough power to the starter solenoid. It should start with a jump or the additional relay.

-Charlie

stanno · 01-28-2010, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white90dx

Read the "starter relay" thread above. Its normal - your battery is just drained a bit and there isn't enough power to the starter solenoid. It should start with a jump or the additional relay.

-Charlie

U know... we took it out ... connected it straight to a battery... and saw that the pinion gear assy only pertruded when energized but did not spin... so i called my mechanic friend who pulled it up ...cleaned alot of dirt out of it and now it works like a charm... i hope i don't have to dismount this sucker again til i'm ready to go manual in the next couple months... cuz it's a ton of pulling down just to replace one seal...

i didn't get any pics of the process... cuz i was so busy and working against the clock... i just managed to get this one pic from my phone...

i borrowed my pop's workshop and a-frame... and yeah lots of his tools too...