Trouble after Intake install (Video Inside) - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

clhdrums · 09-23-2009, 07:48 PM

ChromeIntakes brand intake, car started just fine before. I'm thinking it might be a battery issue since the battery is old, and the cables look bad..but it was fine before. I've unhooked the negative terminal cable to reset the ECU.. and it still didn't work (it wouldn't stay on as long BEFORE i reset the ECU).

My battery and check engine light stay on after putting the ignition into the ON position.

here's the video

You Tube

white90dx · 09-23-2009, 08:33 PM

It sounds like you broke a connection in the AFM.

When you unplugged it, did you un-do the screws? (bad!) The plug should come ondone with just the little metal clip moved.

Try putting a jumper between the "B+" terminal and the "Fp" terminal in the check connector to see if the car stays running that way.

Most likely, you will have to get a used AFM or repair your current one. You can cut the silicone around the top plastic cover and find the broken connection. Carefully seal it up when you are done.

-Charlie

PS. The check engine light and battery lights should stay on if the key is in the on position but the engine is not running.

clhdrums · 09-23-2009, 08:40 PM

actually you're exactly right charlie. i did undo those screws at first, then i tugged it a little bit and saw all the wires and put it back.. i only pulled it maybe about half an inch.. would that be enough to break the connection? I don't understand what you mean by making a jumper, and where the terminals are at. could you help me out?

Jimnist · 09-23-2009, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clhdrums

actually you're exactly right charlie. i did undo those screws at first, then i tugged it a little bit and saw all the wires and put it back.. i only pulled it maybe about half an inch.. would that be enough to break the connection? I don't understand what you mean by making a jumper, and where the terminals are at. could you help me out?

It's a diagnosis connector in the top right corner looking into the bay, behind the strut tower and on the firewall. Maybe be on the other side for USDM though...not sure.

clhdrums · 09-23-2009, 11:22 PM

could i possibly solder the joints back together if i broke them? i don't even remember what it looked like inside because it happened so fast. thankfully there's a junkyard nearby that has about 7 gen 2 i can pull from.

bkbajan · 09-24-2009, 09:06 AM

@Charlie ..so the aim is to NOT take the screws off? just pull the connector right? im askin coz i bought one of those yesterday. i have a question about my exhaust btw,it needs replacing soon...and i want a lil more power. how big can i go with the pipes if i take it to midas or a similar shop?

clhdrums · 09-24-2009, 10:19 AM

correct.. DON'T take the screws off. the connector has a little metal clip on both sides.. i used a flat head to push it out, then i used my fingers to pull it to the side, comes out pretty easy. don't lose that clip.

atobe · 09-24-2009, 01:11 PM

2.25 pipings for NA is the general rule

white90dx · 09-24-2009, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clhdrums

could i possibly solder the joints back together if i broke them? i don't even remember what it looked like inside because it happened so fast. thankfully there's a junkyard nearby that has about 7 gen 2 i can pull from.

You should be able to repair it. You'll have to pull the top off the AFM and look inside for broken connections. 1/2" of pulling out the wires is enough to break the parts inside. Fix what you can and try it again. If all seems normal, carefully seal up the AFM again.

-Charlie

clhdrums · 09-24-2009, 02:14 PM

i just pulled the MAF to look at it.. and i noticed the flapper inside doesn't go all the way in when i press it.. (barely moves at all) .. i loosened up the screws at the part where the ECU plugs in (the part that i pulled out a little bit yesterday) and noticed that if they're a little loosened then it will open all the way.. could it be that they're too tight? i just tried to start it up and it stayed on a little longer but still died out.. i'm inside right now waiting for the ECU to reset.. hoping that will fix it.

bkbajan · 09-24-2009, 02:21 PM

cool,did u get urs fixed? any noticeable change since the install?

clhdrums · 09-24-2009, 02:24 PM

nope. still not fixed.. once i get this whole MAF thing fixed i'll post videos and a follow up. let me know if you have any questions installing it, it's pretty straightforward..but you might need to move some of the rubber like i did to get it to fit right.. the fit is tight, but damn does it look good (and i'm sure it'll sound good once i get it to work)

clhdrums · 09-24-2009, 03:16 PM

So i took off the top and may have found what is wrong... refer to these pictures..

it seems like when i pulled it out i bent the RED metal part. is this suppose to go all the way around?.. it's bent UP a little bit and it's hitting the YELLOW part.. are they suppose to touch? the flapper won't open all the way if they touch.

the part in GREEN shows the rotation and path it takes

clhdrums · 09-24-2009, 03:44 PM

i also may have another solution.. i think that the thing that turns is on the wrong side of the little metal thing. so i pulled it out and put it on the other side, installed the top back and reinstalled it on the car.. it stays on for even longer than before .. and still cuts out.. one of the connections is a little off (i think it may be broken) so i'm going to try to solder it back together (scares me that this is my first soldering job). i'm waiting for my ECU to reset (again) and going to get that out of the way to see if that's the problem.. if not. i'm going to try to solder it together. can anyone confirm any of this?

white90dx · 09-24-2009, 08:13 PM

There are three things happening in the AFM:

1. Air intake temp sensor: This will be two wires that go to a little nub that sticks out into the air flow to the engine.

2. AFM position sensor: This senses the position of the flapper by running a wiper over a resistive track. There will be a power, ground and signal connection to this.

3. Circuit Opening Relay switch: This switch allows power to flow through the coil of the relay (closed when the AFM is open at least partially) and keeps power going to the fuel pump.

I would guess the problem is the 3rd option listed. The wires are solid green and white with black stripe on the harness. Check those first.

I'll also see if I can find good pictures of the inside of a working AFM...

-Charlie