CV Joint / Axle

[jasonck08]

So for a couple months now I've known that the outer CV boots have been torn. Just recently Monday or Tuesday, there has been a clicking noise that happens especially when I make a right turn. So I'm thinking the Right CV joint is shot.

I went to Midas and the guy quoted me $230-290 per side for NEW axels installed! Thats a hell of a lot of money for such an old car.

Another shop that I've gotten work done at before wanted about $300 per side!

I know the axels only cost $65-75 per side with a core trade in, and that gets you a rebuilt one with a 1yr warranty. So the question is, why are they trying to charge me $300+ in fees other than parts?

Anyone know a reputable chain auto store that would do this for cheaper?

I would attempt it myself, but I live in an apartment with limited space and tools.

-Jason

[jasonck08]

Found a guy on craigslist that rebuilds trannies all the time, and he said he could do it for $50.

I'm looking at Craigens and they have them for $50-$60 or so for a rebuilt Master Pro one.

I'm a little confused about what one I need. My camry is a built in Japan 1989 3SFE 2.0L I4 MPI w/ Auto trans.

So it looks like this should work? http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productd...pe=945&PTSet=A

And http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductD...pe=945&PTSet=A

[TBayToyotaBoy]

I can't view your links because I'm in Canada, but if you're unsure then contact them with your VIN and date of production...they will have notes on file for each axle telling them which one applies to your car.

As for Midas and many other chain shops, they charge a flat "book" rate for labour...and sometimes a hefty mark-up on parts. I haven't had work done by one of them in over 15 years because I got sick of being ripped-off.

Talk to people in your area, there should be some certified mechanics around who charge much lower rates because they do only mechanical work. When a shop doesn't have to sink $100,000 into diagnostic equipment, their overhead tends to be quite low! My safety guy charges $35/hr Canadian--or about $32 USD for that reason. And with Camrys of this vintage, we can diagnose ECU problems ourselves with a paper clip and the check engine light.

Tim

[zythr]

[quote=jasonck08;2924875]So for a couple months now I've known that the outer CV boots have been torn. Just recently Monday or Tuesday, there has been a clicking noise that happens especially when I make a right turn. So I'm thinking the Right CV joint is shot.

I went to Midas and the guy quoted me $230-290 per side for NEW axels installed! Thats a hell of a lot of money for such an old car.

Another shop that I've gotten work done at before wanted about $300 per side!

I know the axels only cost $65-75 per side with a core trade in, and that gets you a rebuilt one with a 1yr warranty. So the question is, why are they trying to charge me $300+ in fees other than parts?

Easy, Profit, Profit, and Profit. You're not only paying for them to do the job, but also, the maintenance of the facility, taxes, upkeep on their vehicles, etc. That's how it is., Plus the labor to do this job is probably a lot.

Anyone know a reputable chain auto store that would do this for cheaper?

Unfortunately, I don't. Depending on where you live, ask around and search the Internet for websites that rate businesses (Ie Angie's List) and go from there. Good luck.

[white90dx]

Little pet peeve: The correct spelling is axle, not axel.

-Charlie

[TBayToyotaBoy]

Originally Posted by white90dx

Little pet peeve: The correct spelling is axle, not axel.

-Charlie

That's how I spell it, too!
I stopped pointing out these things after I got my Honors degree in English... apparently my friends and family don't like being corrected all the time!

[jasonck08]

Ended up buying brand new ones for $70 an Axle. I've got a guy who does this type of thing all the time that will do the work for $50. So I'm happy.

That is considerbly cheaper than what the shops here in Town charge. They wanted $450-600 vs the $190 that I'm getting it done for (the part has a lifetime warranty!).

[Mike Gerber]

Just an FYI. If you hear clicking when you make a right turn the LEFT cv joint is shot. When you turn right more of the weight of the car shifts to the left, so that's why the damaged left one makes the clicking noise.

Mike

[kesando]

I have a question regarding CV/axle install. I recently had my passenger side axle replaced with a reman axle at a shop recently. I noticed that after the repair, there is a hissing or "air" sound that comes from the passenger side of the car when turning the wheel at very low speed (parking , broken u-turn manuvers etc.) Also steering effort seems to be a little harder when parking. Is this normal for a replacement axle on only one side?

Also I changed my brake pads not too long ago but not the rotors (didn't seem to need them). Since the axle replacement there is some sort of slight metal scraping noise as the wheel spins and during braking. I was told by the shop it was because of the rotors but it never made that noise before the alxe job.

Any ideas?

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by kesando

I have a question regarding CV/axle install. I recently had my passenger side axle replaced with a reman axle at a shop recently. I noticed that after the repair, there is a hissing or "air" sound that comes from the passenger side of the car when turning the wheel at very low speed (parking , broken u-turn manuvers etc.) Also steering effort seems to be a little harder when parking. Is this normal for a replacement axle on only one side?

Also I changed my brake pads not too long ago but not the rotors (didn't seem to need them). Since the axle replacement there is some sort of slight metal scraping noise as the wheel spins and during braking. I was told by the shop it was because of the rotors but it never made that noise before the alxe job.

Any ideas?

Neither sound is normal, nor is the increased steering effort after the axle install. Take it back to the shop that did the work and have them check it. If you did the brake work yourself, you are on your own for that one. It could be that you bent the back dust shield when you reinstalled the tire(s). Did one of the tires have a problem going back on or did you drop it on the assembly when trying to line it up to put the lug nuts back on? Not a big problem if you did. Just jack up the entire front end of the car and take the wheel off on that side with the nosie, and put two of the lug nuts back on the rotor itself. Now spin the rotor. Are you getting the same noise? Can you see the dust shield contacting the rotor? If you can just bend it back.

Mike

[TBayToyotaBoy]

The hissing sound you hear while turning at very low speed may be the tire... it is possible that the alignment was thrown-off when they installed the axle. I have heard a sound similar to what you're describing, and it was on a car that desperately needed an alignment. Is your steering pulling to either side?

[jasonck08]

Guys I need help... So we pulled off tire and everything and 1/2 of the CV shaft came out. The part that goes all the way to the inner boot came out.

My mechanic guy tried getting the other part out, its just suppose to pop out he said, but it appears to be stuck in there good.

Also the axles that Craigens sold us appear to be bolt on, while my car is NOT. I told Craigen that I needed an axle for a 1989 toyota camry, 4 cylinder, auto, FWD and thats what they gave me? What the hell? Am I correct that my car should have a slip in axle???

[TBayToyotaBoy]

Ugh...this is why, if you look at my first post, I suggested that you give them your VIN and exact date of production. They need to know if the car was Japanese or US production to get you the correct axle. Some were bolt-on, some were snap-ring/splined.

Take the new axle back and give them the car info so they can get you the correct part.

As for the inner part of the tulip joint, tell your mechanic friend to get two short prybars in between the transaxle and the tulip. He has to work them back and forth and the joint will pop-out. It might take some time, but the snap-ring inside will eventually give way, allowing removal.

--Tim

[jasonck08]

Originally Posted by TBayToyotaBoy

Ugh...this is why, if you look at my first post, I suggested that you give them your VIN and exact date of production. They need to know if the car was Japanese or US production to get you the correct axle. Some were bolt-on, some were snap-ring/splined.

Take the new axle back and give them the car info so they can get you the correct part.

As for the inner part of the tulip joint, tell your mechanic friend to get two short prybars in between the transaxle and the tulip. He has to work them back and forth and the joint will pop-out. It might take some time, but the snap-ring inside will eventually give way, allowing removal.

--Tim

I already looked up my vin# on Carfax. It was made in Japan and thats what I told them, but I still got the wrong part. The actual freaking boxes show a snap in axle, but the axles inside are bolt on... Wrong part in the right box maybe??

[TBayToyotaBoy]

It's definitely possible that they got the wrong part in the right box, although the pictures are usually generic. The date of production is important as well though...