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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 10-04-2009, 04:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rumbling after CV Axle replacement 1990

Hi

I just replaced both axles on my 1990 Camry because of bad boots on both sides and lots of clicking and snapping from the CV joints. Went pretty easy and everything went back together fairly well.

However, I am getting a strange rumbling when i turn left and accelerate. It doesn't seem like its a CV axle problem because the rumbling is very pronounced, its a deep rumbling you can hear throughout the car as if the tire was rubbing on something. It seems to be coming from the passenger side.

I'm at a loss. Is one of these refurbished CV Axles from autozone bad? Is it completely unrelated? Did I install the axle incorrectly? Any help would be great..


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Old 10-04-2009, 08:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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check the brake pads/calipers on both sides
brake rotor shield [it can rub on the wheel rim]
if axles were hammered out instead of being pushed out with the tool, the bearing can be damaged
the axle dust collar may rub the wheel bearing rim if bent [not applicable to Kragen axles]
the axle shield near transaxle can be bend
good luck
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Well, the axles slid right out of the bearing and i was pretty ginger about it...So I don't see that being it.. The dust cover next to the bearing looks to be okay..


Didnt have time to check the pads...

Its weird because it only happens under load turning left.. I figured a bearing would make noise all the time regardless of acceleration.. That and its really making a vibration that doesn't scream bearing to me, you can really feel it as opposed to it being a constant rumble.

Funny thing its doing it way less today.. So who knows.
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have the same issue but getting rumbling noises while turning towards the right. I also replaced both CV
axles, got them from Pep Boys, reading about axle reman issues and I'm wondering if remaned axles are
marginal at best. They have a supplier out there call www.Raxles.com that describes most all issues with
CV axles. Of course they cost more but like one person said how often do you want to swap these things anyway! I'm going to pull my left drivers wheel in the morning to check some of the things you mentioned.
I read that the drive axle seal can cause issues if its worn. I think if I dont see much of anything I'll resort
to returning the drivers axle to Pep Boys and getting another to see if anything changes. I read some posts about CV axles being identified by VIN as to whether or not built in USA or Japan. My 1990 was the transition year Camry and I have plug-in style yet my VIN called for bolt-on style. You have to match these up for each car on an individual basis to be sure.
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Old 01-30-2010, 04:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I know this may sound stupid but check how you tightened the lug nuts on the wheel (Saw the driver with same issue
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I had my CV axles replaced because of torn boots and a clicking noise. After replacing the axles, there was still a clicking noise that shook the stearing wheel. Turns out when of the tires developed a slight buldge in it because of the dryrot rubber. Once I replaced the tire, everything drove smoothly...

So check your tires. The buldge on my tires was not notacable when you looked at it. But when I ran my hands on the wheel I could feel the buldge.
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1989 White Gen 2. Auto Transmission. 159K. Best MPG = 39. Worst MPG 19.
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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This is a good point because my 3 years old Goodyear tire broke steel belt inside and developed split in the middle of thread.
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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My rumbling issues turned out to be my driver's side lower ball joint
was worn to the point of causing play in the horizontal direction (holding
tire while front of car is jacked up and free to spin) left to right movement.
This test of ball joint wear is usually found by pulling in the vertical direction (hands on 12 and 6, clock postion) but in my case I could see the ball joint moving slightly around in its casing. Was tough to separate ball joint, had to use a tool similar to a clothes pin in shape and has a screw you turn to cause the pieces to push the ball joint stud out of the steering knuckle. It took lots of penetrating oil, some heat and patience but it finally popped out! Pickle fork is out of the question, I think the pickle fork is a thing of the past. Autozone doesnt rent this tool so had to buy it at Harbor Freight Tools for $20. Not a bad place to pick up cheap tool, not the greatest but good for occasional use.
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