'86 camry check connector not helping fuel pump ..

[popomatic]

Hi folks! Well, I thought I had it fixed since my last thread posting (...diagnostic wire"), but a couple of days ago it stalled while I was backing into a parking place and hasn't started since. I thought I heard something fall, didn't know it was the car dying on me. I've searched the forum before I started this btw and I'm still stumped.

Its an '86 Camry w/139k original miles. It cranks ok, but won't start. Codes read normal, I opened the fuel filter to see if pump was working and fuel came out. Checked the ignition coil, resistance seems fine, but the air gap looks pretty big to me. Unable to do the check connector trick I did before with Fp B+ to hear the fuel pump, becuase now when I jump Fp B+ I hear nothing. Checked all relays including the COR. Purchased another relay for EFI along with fuses last night. When I put the new ones in I could hear some kind of noise, couldn't pinpoint it and hoped to God it wasn't creating a new short. When I tested the COR the resistence is too low. AFM reading is fine. Spent the last two days looking for a short/grounding problem.

Now my questions are, Will a faulty COR make it impossible for the check connector to work or is it the combination of the coil gap problem too? Could it be the fuel pump?? Also, while I was in autozone I was going to get a new COR, but they wanted over $100! yikes! kragen has something identical that cost $48 listed as fuel injection relay. Is it the same thing? Thank you

[popomatic]

BTW, lights and all work, decided to check battery anyway and discovered bad cells. Does the pump/COR need max power to kick in?

[Doctor J]

Check the voltage B+ terminal in the diagnostic box and the body metal for 12 v with ignition on.
Also use spark tester [spark plug with clip and large gap] to check for spark
It seems like the wiring job done to fuse box before messed something up.
I do not think of mechanical problems at this point
I have not tried it on camry but on my 79 supra the gas pump was able to run at 8 v from bad battery

[popomatic]

Yeah I thought about that rewiring too, but we managed to get her going until this happened. I went to Kragen today because I thought my COR might be on its last leg. While I was there, I picked up a spark plug tester in the bargain bin. Just tested it and I got sparks. It actually started for a few seconds with the plug on #1. Did the +B ground test and that worked also. mmmm I'm wondering,I'm using a multimeter to figure this out and according to COR page it looks like the bottom two are positive and the top three are negative. Is that right? Now for the resistance using a multimeter (non digital from wallyworld) the omega symbol is in green at the top. Reading left side begins at infinity and the right side ends in 0. Setting it to RX1K I'm been getting between a 3 and 0.5 and no continuity on FP-B. What I'm trying to get is if the top middle one is B+ why does the diagrahm look like its neg being applied? Is it to reverse polarity?

[Doctor J]

All right
a) if there is +12 v on the b+terminal then the efi main relay is working and you need to verify that gas pump is actually working[it is located outside of the gas tank so it should buzz/whine with power appled]

b)On the COR relay look for the wiring color rater then terminal location, I may not be 100% right as I looking on 88 diagram

• the white wire with black tracer is ground,
• the white wire with the red tracer is HOT [+12v] at ign ON
• the blue wire [not sure about the color] is one for the gas pump should have 12 V with engine cranking or running [and 0v with ign on engine NOT running]
• the black wire should have 10to12 v with key on start only
• The green wire should have 12 v until the engine is firing [and sucking air in so the switch in the AFM is closed]; with engine running there should be about 0 volts between the green wire terminal and the ground.

PS today I saw 84 camry on Ecology auto wrecking, it has many similar parts as yours;
I bought the control arm with urethane bushing to try on my car [and to disprove my disbelief in them]

[popomatic]

so far unable to hear even a whimper from pump. Unscrewed top of filter , turned key and notice fuel came out. I removed the COR to test the switch. Will take another look at wiring in the morning.

Good luck on your project

[popomatic]

Ok, I determined I have continuity on the check connector Fp/B+ , but when cranking the Fp on COR gives nothing. B+ on COR gives off volts. So now I figure there must be a short somewhere. ugggh!! I've gone over this car bit by bit. I'm tempted to run a wire from + batt post to B+ and -to Fp. Is that nuts? I'm using my multimeter and a test light , checking circuits and looking for the short. Shouldn't I hear something from the fuel pump if everything else is ok? Its not time to throw in the towel, head to the junkyard and get another pump is it? Btw, been trying to bring the battery back to life too. Any suggestions?

[Doctor J]

On the check connector there should be no continuity between B+ and Fp ; unless you jump these terminals together to run the pump.
On COR relay check if you have 12 V on the black wire terminal while cranking the engine; measure between this wire and body metal.
In the trunk locate fuel pump connector, unplug the pump and attach the test light instead;
jump Fpand B+ terminals in diagnostic connector.
turn ignition on.
If the test light is on the pump is offcheck the white wire that goes from pump connector to the ground [should be continuity between body metaland white wire connector.
The best way to test for adequate power at the pump is to attach 12 v cordless drill without the batteries to the pump connector istead of pump; if it runs with B+ and FP jumped together the pump can be defective

[popomatic]

mmm... ok I have several cordless drills here and they all have the battery pack attached. If I were to connect it, do I use a power cord spliced to get it done? Is it easier to get to the fuel pump in the trunk or the back seat? When I test the check connector w/the multimeter, I put the positive probe to B+ Neg to Fp and I got a reading?? What the hell is going on? (sorry, close to running in the street waving arms and screaming right about now) I'm going back out to fined the pump. Man! I meant to clean this car out before now...

[popomatic]

ok I got the back seat up (trunk will take awhile) pulled the carpet up and I see a metal case with four screws holding it down. At the top of it is a rubber piece with three wires coming out of it. The wires are connected to a plastic type harness connector. The colors are white w/black and red splashes, yellow w/green strip and yellow with red stripe. Did I find it or do I keep searching?

[Doctor J]

If you getting 12 v between the B+ and FP means that the power can flow through the pump.
However the pump may be plugged up etc
I remembering answering the post about the pump troubleshooting on 84 camry, the owner took the pictures to show what exactly the connector of the pump looks like.
I will have to look into schematics for 86 camry, but it looks like the wires you got are going to the fuel sender;
I hooked up the drill with removed battery using two wires with alligator clips.

[popomatic]

If the above was the right place I think I have a grounding problem. I disconnected the pump from harness. Using test light tested the circuit and dead no light. Using multimeter tested continuity between white wire and red-nothing, circuit light to body metal and leads-nothing. Connected test light to connector along with a small radio and jumped Fp/B+, no lights and no sound. By myself doing all of this. Ran power directly from battery terminals to pump lead with jumpers still in. Didn't hear anything and didn't get a light. Good news, didn't blow up. Unable to test volts on black COR. Either go back with light or wait till tomorrow. The other night after connecting ends I checked for spark with left hand holding a mirror and right hand cranking her up.

[popomatic]

Sorry DoctorJ just st read your post. That makes sense. I thought I should of been able to hear something. I read somewhere here I think about how pump filters can get clogged and shut it down too. Once I reach the pump will I be able to see the filter? and I I can get to it, can it be cleaned or do I have to get another pump/filter ?

[Doctor J]

The pump is outside of the tank so it should produce faint whine when power is applied and it spins; sometime momentary reversing polarity AT THE pump [hooking iit backwards] can free it up;the pump has blue/blk and white/blk wires coming to it.
it has srainer on the discharge port, back in 1999 we saw when that strainer fell apart clogging the high pressure line[the faragments were bown out from fuel line with compressed air.
even the weak pump should be able to start the engine, then it going to starve for gas and die.
On my 79 supra the pump was very noisy, I could hear it all the time for 14 years , but it never went bad

[popomatic]

Where exactly is it in the trunk? I don't see the wires. Am I blind?