'91 Oil Leak Repairs - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

PaulPR · 10-24-2009, 12:59 PM

My '91 DX (205K, 3SFE, Auto) leaks a bunch of oil out of the front (crank pulley end) of the engine. Based on reading here, I suspect it's the oil pump spaghetti seal. I have a factory manual and have done quite a bit of minor mechanical work over the years, but this is going to challenge my limits.

So far my parts list includes:
timing belt (might as well)
crank seal
oil pump shaft seal
spaghetti seal
idler pulley and spring (?)

Is there anything else I should consider?

I'm thinking I'm going to need a tool to hold the oil pump and crank pulley to remove/install the bolt. Would something like this work?
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...ool_otc_4.html

Should I use any kind of sealer on the spaghetti seal?

Any tips for removing/installing the crank seal (I'm not planning to remove the main oil pump housing).

Is locktite recommended on any of the bolts?

TIA!!

Paul

mcx · 10-24-2009, 08:06 PM

..replace the water pump and the alternator/power steering/ac belt...i made that tool out of scrap wood pieces...and it did the job fine...save the money for something else.

alligatorgar · 10-24-2009, 08:13 PM

Wow you really have a project worthy of documenting with a digital camera. Good luck wish I where closer Id give you a hand. Sounds like fun. Whenever I tackle a project like that I write down everything Im going to do then make a list like I see you are doing. Good luck keep us posted.

PaulPR · 10-25-2009, 09:38 PM

mcx - We did the water pump w/ the last timing belt (about 60K ago), so I think we're good there.

Thanks - Paul

TBayToyotaBoy · 10-26-2009, 12:20 AM

Hi Paul,

I did this exact job on my Celica (5SFE, same set-up as the 3SFE) last winter...in the snow...and -25degree weather. It's challenging, but do-able.

I thought the o-ring (what you called the spaghetti seal) was gone too, but luckily I bought all the seals--and the oil pump housing gasket. The gasket was the culprit. When I installed the new o-ring/spaghetti seal, I used a small bead of RTV sealant; it was the one specifically designed for oil contact, so it won't break-down. I also replaced the front crank seal, the oil pump seal, and (of course) the oil pan RTV sealant. Of course now my distributor is leaking, but whadderyagonnado?

I build an engine support brace out of 4x4 and 2x6 lumber, cost me about $20 and held the engine just nicely after I dropped it to gain access to the oil pump. Made it just wide enough to drive under, just low enough to have the hood up while I worked...

That tool you linked to shouldn't be necessary--I had no problems removing and reinstalling the pulley bolts without one.

If your leak ends up being the oil pump gasket as I have a hunch it will be, take lots of time, a quart of acetone, and a razor knife to remove all of the old gasket material. It's probably the biggest pain of the whole episode.

Good luck, keep us posted!

--Tim

PaulPR · 10-26-2009, 01:48 PM

Tim - Thanks for the reply. I really didn't want to get into pulling the oil pan. Sure wish there was a way to tell where the oil is coming from w/o having to get in so deep. I'll have to ponder the situation for awhile.

Paul

TBayToyotaBoy · 10-26-2009, 08:33 PM

Well Paul, you could just get in there and replace the o-ring and see if it helps. If it does, I heartily congratulate you. If it doesn't, you'll be disappointed but prepared for what you have to do.

It can't hurt to start with the easier of the two approaches.

fredk · 11-07-2009, 07:39 PM

read my new post on another guys oil leaks

Grego 92 · 10-12-2010, 05:47 PM

How did you guys get the crank seal off? SST? screwdriver? or did you remove the oil pump housing? I'm afraid of damage using a screw driver. Thanks

scarney1988 · 10-14-2010, 08:07 PM

As for seal removal there are a few methods. The most acceptable method being the use of a seal puller. Another method is to find two small self tapper screws and put them in the seal 180 degrees across from one another. Then take pliers and pull. Either one will work.

I would also recommend you making sure your PCV hose it unobstructed and allowing good vacuum to the engine. Also, make sure the PCV nipple is clear of debris. If the PCV system is obstructed blow by pressure will build up internally in the engine and encourage leaks.

May want to order both the o-ring and housing seal so that you can assess the situation and take the appropriate action. I would recommend acquiring a tube of black FIPG (for oil pan) and pick up gasket (in case you have to pull pan). Those parts are cheap. Better to have it than do without.

Good luck

For the parts list:

Degreaser / Simple Green
Latex/Nitril gloves

Grego 92 · 10-14-2010, 09:39 PM

Thanks, a guy on another thread told me the same trick and it worked! I only used one screw though. I didn't have a leak, was just replacing it since I was doing the timing belt.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...26#post3351026

Greg

PaulPR · 10-18-2010, 02:15 PM

I'm preparing to do the timing belt/oil leak fix job and was considering how to support the engine when I remove the engine mount. I realize I could just place a jack under the oil pan, but since I'm not sure where my leaks are from, I'd like to be prepared to remove the oil pump if necessary.

I'm thinking I could make a simple wood bridge across the strut towers and then a brace that goes over the engine lifting hook. The end of the brace would be supported by another piece of wood spreading the load over the radiator support sheet metal. A simple eye bolt would connect the lift hook to the brace.

How much weight do I need to support with this contraption.

gregzbutt · 10-19-2010, 12:04 AM

I would use a jack under the oil pan (with a block of wood between the two) to take some of the load off the engine mount when you remove it. But after that engine mount is out of the way you can take the jack out from underneath, there's plenty of support for the engine from the other 4 mounts.

Now if you're gonna remove that oil pump, you'll need to get the pan off. In order to do that you'll need to take out those lower cross members which are holding the engine in place. What I did was just reinstall the engine mount by the timing belt (after I took the belt off), before I took out the lower cross members to get at the oil pan. No problem.

Good luck! This is a helluva job. I've have to do it twice now. All of the info here on the forum was a huge help. Ahh... to be leak free....

71Corolla · 10-19-2010, 02:42 AM

It's not necessary to remove the oil pan when replacing the oil pump. You only need to remove the oil pan if you are replacing the oil pump back housing.

PaulPR · 10-19-2010, 01:48 PM

71Corolla - I was more thinking ahead to the possibility that I have a leak at the housing as suggested by TBayToyotaBoy. I'm also thinking, if I'm going in that deep I "might as well" just replace the pump. I see a poster above had an oil pump die (first I've heard of someone having that issue on a Camry).