Coil resistance?

[malakia71]

The primary coil resistance is 0.5 Ohm (measured with two different multimeter), The book says 0.36-0.42 is the norm. Can this cause no ignition? Thank you

[TUBEJUNKE]

I just measured mine in search of the culprit that is causing an intermittent problem in performance. I really don't know for sure if mine is fuel or ignition related. My coil resistance is .7 ohms and I have a good blue spark, so I would say that in your case, no, that would not cause NO ignition. I still hope an expert will jump on here and tell us just what that spec. being a little off can cause, if anything.

[mcx]

are you subtracting the resistance in the test leads??...if you touch the leads together,what reading does it show??

[TUBEJUNKE]

My DVOM shows zero. The specs I have say .38-.46 ohms, so I guess it would be reasonable to consider that lead resistace or possibly other factors could make a difference; especially since we are talking 10ths of an ohm.

[malakia71]

I am trying to isolate problem of no start (with good crank). I trust the coil is good, so are the plugs and cords (8 - 10 KOhm resistance). I can see sparks on each plug when grounded. Other than that... no fuel came out of fuel pressure regulator vacuum line. The cold start injector does not leak fuel when ignition is on and Fp and B shortened. It is getting wet when cranking. The resistance on tempt sender (with rectangular green switch) is 3.5KOhm on cold engine (ambient temp. 60F). The only thing that is inconsistent with book specs is the resistance between Vc and Es pins on air flow regulator. It is 280 Ohm, and should be 3-7 KOhm.

I attempted to spray some starting fluid into throttle body; It produced a backfire from the throttle, that was it. What is the right way to spray starting fluid into theis engine?

[TUBEJUNKE]

I think I may end up being the resident expert on these old air flow meters before it's all over with. I have learned a lot just today as I have two of them to play with. I wont get into all of what I learned today because that is going to be on another thread. Good thing for you is I happen to have a known working meter and the specs in my hand for a 3S-FE. I HOPE that's what your engine is. So here goes. Between pins VS and E2 I get 337 ohms. The spec is 200-600 ohms. Here's the tricky part: between VC and E2 which I believe is what you are questioning I get 279 ohms. Now, the spec shows 3-7K ohms for the 2VC-FE, and 2-400 ohms for the 3S-FE. It's like the specs are backwards because I have had this meter on a car along with the original and both have similar readings. ALSO, between VS and E2 you can open the door and watch the action of the potentiometer. From a logical standpoint you would think that as you work the air door that you would see a smooth and steady increase and decrease in resistance. Not true for me at least. On both of my parts I see what to me is a fairly erratic change in resistance. I think that perhaps a digital VOM is too sensitive and this check may be done more effectively with an analog meter. Actually the technical info makes no mention of doing the potentiometer check. Perhaps it is irrelevant. Just in case any of this helps I will give you my other readings. Between THA and E2 I get 2.181K ohms, which is normal, and last you can look at your reading between FC and E1. This will show the operation of a set of contacts that SHOULD be closed when the door is fully shut. This is important because unless I am wrong these contacts turn your fuel pump on and off. Regardless of my correctness on exactly WHAT the contacts do, you need to see infinity with the door shut and ZERO as soon as you open the door slightly. Last I am going to list the pins I have mentioned in order from left to right. FC, E1, nothing, VC, E2, VS, and THA.

I hope this helps some. I will look at another source ASAP to see if I can figure out what the deal is between the conflicting specs for VC and E2. I can't imagine us all having the wrong meters.