Well, I'm starting to realize that you can overthink some of this stuff and drive yourself crazy. I'm sure anyone with any kind of atutomotive or electronics training would understand why I would be concerned in regards to the coil. There it all is in black and white when your doing what any good repairman would do and use your troubleshooting data. Most of the data plainly states to replace a coil with the kind of readings I mentioned. Logically thinking, you wouldn't want to replace one bad part with another. My knowledge of electronics led me to the conclusion that different manufacturers are going to build replacement parts with slightly different electronic values. In the case of a simple coil, a matter of 10ths of an ohm probably would have no detectable difference in performance.
So, I installed the Duralast coil and so far so good. The MOST refreshing part of my battle with this intemittent problem was actually finding a BAD part. Everyone probably knows what I mean. You have an intermittent performance problem, or sometimes just a problem, and you start doing the logical stuff like changing or inspecting fuel filters, spark plugs, wires, ect.., but you never really see anything that is BROKEN. But it felt great to unbolt that coil and see that burnt brown spot where voltage had been jumping for what looks like a long time to me. I took out a jewelers loupe and looked up close and there was a whole network of cracks. I can't believe this was not causing problems until lately. The car was driven by my grandmother less than 300 miles a year for the past 10 or 12 years, so perhaps this intermittent problem just never happened in her very few and very short trips. When I drove it here (VA) from upstate PA, it rained cats and dogs and the engine never missed a beat.
So, hopefuly the old Camry will be once again as dependable as it has been since my family bought it. I do want to warn anyone who may view this thread due to similar problems with their car that besides variations in the electronic values of aftermarket parts, there is also flat out WRONG troubleshooting data out there that may cost you hundreds of dollars. Specifically I am talking about airflow meter resistance values given for older 3S-FE engines. The books call for 3-7K ohms across pins THA and E2. I have measured two used, but known to work units, and one rebuilt unit, and they all fall between the 200-400 ohm range that is the spec listed for a 2VZ-FE. I almost fell for it myself until an old friend loaned me the one on his car to try out. I wonder how many people have paid through the nose based on this misprint and STILL had performance issues because the meter was never the trouble.
Happy Motoring!
Linear Mode
