Can't remove Rotor

[Rarou11]

Hey guys, I'm trying to work on the brakesfor my 1990 Camry, sadly only need to work on the front passenger side, as the pad on the inside slipped out or something, and the caliper piston was the last thing stopping the car. I've got a new Caliper, rotor and pads, but I'm having a helluva time trying to get the old rotor off.

I've sprayed the stupid thing with WD-40, I've beat on the old rotor, even tried soaking it in coke to remove some of the rust, but part of me thinks the heat from the last time the brakes worked might have almost welded it on... I've even tried to remove that axle nut (but that's not budging a bit)!

Any ideas? I'm at my wits end here...

Over in Council Bluffs, Iowa if anyone's nearby...

[Mike Gerber]

There should be 2 threaded holes near the center of the rotor. Thread 2 corresponding screws in to those holes and lever off the rotor tightening those 2 screws evenly. (I believe the threads are M8 X 1.25 thread pitch, but I am not certain of that.) The rotor should break loose with a pop.

Incidently, WD-40 is great for many applications, but is not a great penetrating oil, IMHO. Use something like PB Blaster.

Mike

[toytec]

Bigger Hammer!

[white90dx]

If PB Blaster + the two bolts don't work...

A big hammer and some heat will get it off there.

-Charlie

[Rarou11]

Well, I headed back outside right after I posted the original entry... Pondered the situation... Sprayed a little more WD-40 on the studs, and center area... Started hammering it. Now at first, I tried using a long, very sturdy Flathead Screwdriver to try and create a little more of a gap on the rotor near the axle collar (sleeve, shaft, whatever you want to call it...), and at one point, threw up a spark. remembering I had sprayed WD-40 not too long ago, and recalling the recent years of my youth using a can of WD-40 as a flamethrower, I decide to come up with a new plan.

At this point, I'm praying, VERY INTENTLY for a miracle... I can't get it to budge, it's rusted on there like it's all one piece, and I'm worried that in the last use of my "brakes" (when the prior Brake Cylinder/caliper was stopping the rotor) the excessive heat practically welded it on...

I go back to the computer, poke around on the internet for a bit, and head back out to the car... Everything I just saw online tells me I need to use a bigger hammer. I've got nothing nearby. I'm not gonna use this rotor anyways, backsides way too messed up, and I'm putting dings in it from hammering on it trying to get it off, and I've already got a replacement anyways... So I take all my frustration out on it and POUND on it in a circular fashion around the braking area, and POP. It moves. VICTORY! Keep smacking around it, and now it's wobbling freely! I toss the hammer aside, and grip it with my gloved hands, and pull! Stuck... It will move freely all but a 1/8" from the edge of that "axle collar". >.<

I then remember the 3 holes on the rotor meant to be used to push the rotor off, so I grab 3 bolts that fit, start tightening them, and after about 5 minutes, it's just a little past the edge, and I pull it right off. I hold my Stag Rack over my head and let out a whoop! I unscrew the other bolts and walk inside with a bloodthirsty look on my face, open the door, turn to my Mother and Grandmother, brandishing my kill, "This proves I need to start saving for a new car."

I have conquered the demon-posessed-spawn-of-Satan-Brake-Rotor-nightmare-from-Hell, and I've put it back together. New Rotor installed, new brake cylinder/caliper, and new pads on that side, all I have to do now is just bleed the brakes. That my friends, is another adventure waiting for me tomorrow after work...

[silverhawk]

thank god....I was wondering if I was the only idiot in the world that couldn't get the dang thing off...bigger hammer it is then. Thanks for the post.

[hzt30]

If only the passenger side was done, what kind of shape is the other side? You usually replace pads in pairs.

I am a firm believer in the bolt holes in the rotor for removal. Like Rick Hunter always says in the 1980's "Hunter" series, "it works for me".

[silverhawk]

yeah, but a sledge hammer is a good way to relieve the stress that built up while you were trying to get the rusted-in-place caliper bolts out.

[mk2-1jz]

remove the caliper and bracket assembly, hang it with a coat hanger to the strut casing and out of the way.

2 ways to do this, both work.

1) Go in from behind with a BFH (big f'ing hammer) and wack the shit out of it. (for future reference)

2) If you have a good quality torch head that has an air mixer inside of it (not an ordinary plumbing torch it doesn't get hot enough) or an acetylene torch (dont turn it high enough to cut mind you)

Heat 1 spot of the rotor continuously, center on 1 spot in between 2 of the studs and HEAT IT. The rotor will pop right off after a few minutes. The spot expands so much it breaks the rust ring around the entire rotor.

Both methods tried tested and true.