1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I just finished installing an amp and a sub and I went to start the car up today and it idles like CRAP!, does find if i hold the idle up myself with the gas and it does fine once it gets goin, any ideas what the issue is?? I'm more familiar with carbureted engines so I aint real familiar with the works of fuel injection so any help is appreciated.
if it was fine before, idk, my suggestion...check out alternator?
i have a full system in mine and it was fine.
or the battery, check the voltage of the battery when it is idleing and the radio is on.
you might need either a new battery or new/bigger alternator (depending on power needs of the amp)
I actually did, in order to gain access to route the wire, I moved the air filter housing top and I was looking the other day and I think I may have found my problem. It appears at some point the air intake duct was ripped and someone decided duct tape was a proper solution, so when I moved the air filter housing I am pretty sure it broke the seal that was created by the decrepet duct tape that was on there. My guess (please tell me if this sounds right, my experience is with old cars not with this computer controlled sensor filled crap, and since the problem only seems apparent at idle this might not be right) is that it is pulling extra air in from that hole, and since that spot is after the mass air flow sensor, it is not giving the engine enough gas to compensate for that added air intake?
I actually did, in order to gain access to route the wire, I moved the air filter housing top and I was looking the other day and I think I may have found my problem. It appears at some point the air intake duct was ripped and someone decided duct tape was a proper solution, so when I moved the air filter housing I am pretty sure it broke the seal that was created by the decrepet duct tape that was on there. My guess (please tell me if this sounds right, my experience is with old cars not with this computer controlled sensor filled crap, and since the problem only seems apparent at idle this might not be right) is that it is pulling extra air in from that hole, and since that spot is after the mass air flow sensor, it is not giving the engine enough gas to compensate for that added air intake?
Your logic sounds correct. Temporarily use new duct tape to close the hole and see how it runs. If the problem goes away, then go out and purchase and install a new air intake duct.
Your logic sounds correct. Temporarily use new duct tape to close the hole and see how it runs. If the problem goes away, then go out and purchase and install a new air intake duct.
Mike
haha yeah, unfortunately I tried to do this, wasn't sure where it was pulling air in from, so I went to pull the old tape off and the hose too so I could clean it and whatnot to make sure the tape sticks ok and the very little bit that was actually left of the end of the hose basically disentigrated so it is rather unuseable now, guess its junk yard or parts store time for me regardless XP
haha yeah, unfortunately I tried to do this, wasn't sure where it was pulling air in from, so I went to pull the old tape off and the hose too so I could clean it and whatnot to make sure the tape sticks ok and the very little bit that was actually left of the end of the hose basically disentigrated so it is rather unuseable now, guess its junk yard or parts store time for me regardless XP
This might not be your style but since you are replacing the intake ducting, you could get a cold air intake and completey redo the ducting! Haha, just an idea. I do like the deeper noise my engine makes with my cold air intake and all the stock air filter and box removed.
Also for reference with the stereo and alternator, I ran a 1500 watt RMS stereo with a red top and yellow top optima battery and the 70amp stock alternator when it was 12 years old for 2 years before it started to complain...
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Current: 1990 Toyota Camry DX - Intrax Springs (2001), KYB GR2 Struts (2001 front and rear, 2009 rear warranty replaced), Erebuni Bodykit(front uninstalled, side skirts installed), custom cold air intake with K&N filter, very nice stereo and car alarm. http://car.joeyconway.com
This might not be your style but since you are replacing the intake ducting, you could get a cold air intake and completey redo the ducting! Haha, just an idea. I do like the deeper noise my engine makes with my cold air intake and all the stock air filter and box removed.
Also for reference with the stereo and alternator, I ran a 1500 watt RMS stereo with a red top and yellow top optima battery and the 70amp stock alternator when it was 12 years old for 2 years before it started to complain...
Well I am looking to keep cost to a minimum since this is just an A to B car, the amp is about the extent of major expense I wanna put into it. How much would putting in that kind of system be? Labor is not necessary since I can do all the work myself.
Well I am looking to keep cost to a minimum since this is just an A to B car, the amp is about the extent of major expense I wanna put into it. How much would putting in that kind of system be? Labor is not necessary since I can do all the work myself.
all depends on the brand or quality of equipment you go with...i worked at circuit city when i first started gettin into workin on my 2nd gen and got everything very cheap. the following list is a break down on the rough cost of main components for a pretty upper end powerful system, 1000-1500 watts rms. a nice powerful sub, prob $500-$700 each. a nice powerful amp, prob $500-$700 each. a box, $100-$200 unless you can make it yourself or know any carpenters. all the wires, $100-$200 depending on fuse holders, ring terminals, and gauge of wire. these are all rough numbers.
basically, depending on the wattage, will determine the guage of power wire, speaker wire and amperage of fuses you'll need. heres a list of the wiring off the top of my head: power wire from hood to trunk (prob already have), remote amp turn on (prob already have), RCAs from deck to trunk amp (prob already have), maybe a battery in your trunk, might need external fuses in trunk, amp ground wire in the trunk, and amp to speaker wire. oh and i have dynamat, sound deading material, in my trunk and rear deck to keep the rattles to a minimum.
then you'll need a box and a sub or two. i prefer jl audio and i've had my subs for over 7 years with no problems. if you can do all the labor yourself, you'll save a lot and just need to buy parts. i've bought quite a few parts off eBay, just gotta be careful. ive always been able to make friends with the local jl audio dealer where ever ive lived and its worked out well in favorable discounts.
hopefully i was thorough enough! if there is any area i forgot or you want more detail, just ask. there are lots of knowledgeable people on here!
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Current: 1990 Toyota Camry DX - Intrax Springs (2001), KYB GR2 Struts (2001 front and rear, 2009 rear warranty replaced), Erebuni Bodykit(front uninstalled, side skirts installed), custom cold air intake with K&N filter, very nice stereo and car alarm. http://car.joeyconway.com
you can get 90 degree pipe, MAF adaptor and a cone filter for about $50.00.
definitely gave me a deeper sound! i love it.
love it! i think it looks great! the parts and install sound so simple too!
that air filter is 10x easier than mine to change. i gotta jack up my car, take the driver side wheel off, undo the fender lining, all just to get at the air filter!
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Current: 1990 Toyota Camry DX - Intrax Springs (2001), KYB GR2 Struts (2001 front and rear, 2009 rear warranty replaced), Erebuni Bodykit(front uninstalled, side skirts installed), custom cold air intake with K&N filter, very nice stereo and car alarm. http://car.joeyconway.com
you can get 90 degree pipe, MAF adaptor and a cone filter for about $50.00.
definitely gave me a deeper sound! i love it.
This looks awesome, looks to me like that'll be what I do, probably cant even beat that cost by gettin a new(relatively speaking) stock intake tube at a junk yard! Great looking car by the way.
you can get 90 degree pipe, MAF adaptor and a cone filter for about $50.00.
definitely gave me a deeper sound! i love it.
There is one thing I am wondering, I went in today to look at pricing, etc. The 90 degree elbow I found has a clamp that come with it (not the wide ones like you have, just a narrow chrome one. Did yours just not come with that, or do they not work?
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